Trailer build and I need help please.

TinBoats.net

Help Support TinBoats.net:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Scott85

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 10, 2015
Messages
171
Reaction score
0
Location
Virginia
I'm doing my first trailer build and I figured I would put it all together on this tread. The trailer is very solid and is built like a tank. It's a tilt trailer which is something I love. Here is some before pictures.
fc5e2c38b50951b0c6e5d2c0099aac69.jpg
stripped down.
ace1d33a28efc1b51b3c1821d70c4f0d.jpg


Because it's a tilt trailer the front trailer support could use some work and the previous owners used a composite wood post for a front support. I would like to change it to a wood bunk, so how would I mount it?
f632fdde5a726a2a20471c7dcd8cefbf.jpg


Another question for the on the pvc guides. It has the holes on a bracket of the side of the trailer. So can I drill a hole in a threaded pvc cap and bolt it to these holes or is it too much of a strain on the pvc?
c9c72ec77fc31cab297e5e8d5225f994.jpg


The last question is the paint is in pretty good shape and under the paint it seems that it is galvanized and I got some self etching primer so there is no need to sand down to bare metal right?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Let's see if we can help..

Because it's a tilt trailer the front trailer support could use some work and the previous owners used a composite wood post for a front support. I would like to change it to a wood bunk, so how would I mount it?

E-Trailer and Overton's have tons of different braces/brackets that will do the job. I imagine a simple carpeted 2x4 with the right bracket will fix you up. Of course, don't use treated lumber.

Another question for the on the pvc guides. It has the holes on a bracket of the side of the trailer. So can I drill a hole in a threaded pvc cap and bolt it to these holes or is it too much of a strain on the pvc?

A PVC Cap will break the first time you put any side-load on it. I'd buy a 24/36 inch threaded steel shaft/ or/ a piece of galvanized pipe ( better) the same size as the hole. Put large fender washers and nuts on the top and bottom. Then, drop your PVC on that upright; drill large holes in the top cap (otherwise air pressure will float it off when you launch); and maybe run a light cord from the top of the PVC to the bottom support as a precaution to keep the PVC from disappearing.


The last question is the paint is in pretty good shape and under the paint it seems that it is galvanized and I got some self etching primer so there is no need to sand down to bare metal right?

If it really is galvanized, and some idiot painted over the galvanizing..I'd lightly wire brush it and re-apply galvanized paint over the top. Why anyone would mess with the best finish for trailers (galvanized) I don't know.

But, I am no paint expert. I'd re-post a simple question "Do I paint over old galvanized paint?" We have some true paint guys on here who can help more than I can. regards, welcome aboard

richg99
 
Oh, while you are at it...you might also consider moving your tail-lights up onto the PVC uprights...to keep them out of the water.

Or, I usually just substitute new LEDs and leave them where yours are now. LED's solve the "immersion into water/bulb blowing " issues. richg99
 
I got the new led lights. I guess I'll just keep the guides that I have already have.
For the paint I'm really wanting to paint the trailer because that will give practice when I go to my boat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Your boat, you can do what you want, and you should.

As I said before, though, we have some really good paint guys here.
Post a second thread with your paint (only) question. Someone will pipe in and help.

Even though it is a trailer question, I'd post it in the Boat House section. As it is paint related, I think that you will get a quicker response there.

Remember, some of these guys work, so you may not see an answer till this evening.
richg99
 
Got the bearing and hubs pulled off and I got one wheel sanded down and primed. Before
037c7d07e85cb0d0f430587da2febe1f.jpg
after
ceeb704eca37d1377076b0bfdeff3933.jpg
primed
2179d6bffffc7b1849442186f1c4aaf5.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Got most of it painted. Just got to flip and paint the top side.
bda09a00a57b98e2be01360580acd0bc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Now I'm just waiting on the parts to build the new axle and it will be all done. I got it completely painted and started to put everything back together.
dac70d4d6b21ae1bc5fce62459a61f5e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Those open beam trailers really are the best. No place to trap the water and that is just exactly what you want. I wouldn't touch another boxed style again just because they rot away no matter how you treat them because of their always having trapped moisture inside the frame. This type is so easy to access inspect and do spot repairs that they can literally last a lifetime.
What did you paint that with ?
 
So far the workmanship is tops. I really like that you stripped it right down to nothing and then started putting it back together. Buying the parts you need will be very expensive so re purposing is the way I like to go. I don't agree with avoiding pressure treated lumber for this project as you need to carpet it anyway (bunks). I am building my trailer now and appreciate the pictures to go by.
 
richg99 said:
Carpet won't stop electrolysis

richg99


That is an interesting point. With the separation between the woods chemicals and the aluminum just separated by that nice wet carpet will there be any kind of reaction. Personally I don't have a clue but who knows it might. I think I would go with a plastic cover and not chance finding it out the hard way.
 
It's got regular 2x4 board. But I haven't had a chance to work on it. I'm currently down in richg neck of the woods.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

Latest posts

Top