Transom repair

[ragged edge]

Been watching the forum for awhile and now have a question for transom repair. I have a 1969 Duracraft with a angled aluminum extrusion going from the floor to about 2/3 the way up the transom. I have replaced the wood reinforcement once before but now the hull is giving in the middle and cracking the transom corners where it welds to the side. With the wood out it's just a shell. Motor is 25 hp. How should I go about fixing it?

 

[crazymanme2]

You'll get quicker responce if you post some pics.


Without seeing stronger corners.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

What size boat?
What HP motor is it rated for?

 

[ragged edge]

What size boat?
What HP motor is it rated for?

It is 14 1/2' with a 1971 Evinrude 25 hp

 

[ragged edge]

You'll get quicker responce if you post some pics.


Without seeing stronger corners.

Ok, will send some pics today........

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I'm running a 25 hp mariner on a 1436 jon.
When I replaced my transom I used 2 layers of 1/2" plywood glued together.
Then I added a 1"x6"x48" oak board glued and screwed to the plywood.
This is held in place with 16 1/4" stainless steel bolts.
I now have the motor mounted on a T&H Mini-Jacker that is bolted to the transom with 6 3/8" stainless steel bolts.
The motor is mounted with the anti-cavitation plate about 2" above the keel.

 

[ragged edge]

Sorry, I did not post pics but I got it figured out. On the top corner braces I drilled a 1/16 hole at the end of each crack to prevent further cracking and then tig welded. The wood bracing on the transom was good as it was replaced a couple of years ago. To prevent the transom from going inward we took 6160 aircraft aluminum and cut it to the height of transom and 8" wide. This piece was installed vertically from top of transom to the floor. The two transom brace bolt holes were drilled thru the new aluminum, sealed and bolted. Two lower holes were drilled above the water line, sealed and bolted. This repair beefed up the transom probably 90%.