Transom Replacement, what to use.

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Codeman

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Sorry I know this has been discussed some but I can't seem to get a straight answer on this topic. What is the best thing to use? I know plywood seems to be the material of choice, but what should it be treated with, Thompson's, Fiberglass? I am not only replacing but extending my transom on my newly acquired project to eliminate the train wreck that was previously on there.

Please help I want to get this thing in the water. :|
 
I'd use 3/4" plywood (not OSB). Cut, fit, and drill all the mounting holes (stick the bolts in just to make sure it all aligns), and give it 2-3 coats (both sides & edges) of good paint, I usually just use Rustoleum since I have plenty.

ST
 
Either stop by the local cabinet/woodworking shop and use their yellow wood glue (they may loan you a couple of clamps too, which would be MUCH better) or have them do it for you. Otherwise, buy some yellow wood glue at the local hardware, Menards, Home Depot, etc. Spread the glue evenly across the board, both pieces, then clamp together for 30 minutes or longer. If you don't have clamps, put it on the floor and pile something very heavy on it. Watch out, the glue will ooze out the edges and make a mess. I would also glue them together before the final finish cut to size..
 
Plywood coated with epoxy and painted works good and last a long time.It can get expensive tho.Just do all the cutting and drilling before applying the epoxy.Another thing I have seen used, is engineered plywood or decking.The stuff that feels like solid plastic.I usually use exterior plywood with water sealer.On pontoon decks we used exterior plywood with no sealer or marine plywood.I have seen and read that some people like MDO plywood, not to be confused with MDX or MDF.I don't know of any prep need for MDO plywood.
 
Having done a lot of woodworking over the years, I'd recommend that if you do glue two peces together to keep then clamped for about 24 hours to be sure that the glue has dried completely. Humidity and conditions can have an effect on drying time. I would also glue two pieces together than cut out your transom after glueing to be sure all edges are even (gluing after cutting could easily get the pieces out of line while clamping). Generally when the glue ozzing out the sides becomes hard, then you should be safe removing the clamps. You want to clamp and/or weight the pieces so you have even pressure to make sure all air is removed between the two pieces. Be sure to completely coat the surface to glue with no spots without glue. You will get a mess out the sides but that is actually a good thing to see.
Just my opinion on this.
 
Codeman said:
What kind of epoxy do you recommend?

I have used West system and MAS epoxies.Shouldn't take more than a quart of laminating epoxy + recommended catalist on most flattie Jon transoms.Always check with the manufacture's website for the coverage area of a given amount of epoxy.Coverage by volume can vary widely by manufacture and intend use for the epoxy.
 
Epoxy for both glueing and treating would be the best you could do. Epoxy is some good stuff altough costly. I have used some from this guy before. Quality stuff at a resonable price. He also can answer any question you might have. https://www.jgreer.com/index.htm

However if money is an issue, you could get by with some construction adhesive to glue up and than treat a few times with a good sealer.

If you go with the epoxy, don't try to brush it on. Instead mix up a few ounces and pour it on then use and old credit card or playing card to coat the wood.
 

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