What wood to use to replace transom?

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I sort of dance to my own drummer at times, but really does it matter? Seems like such a cheap easy project, on most boats anyway. Do I really care if I have to do it again in a few years? Pretty sure if just used whatever plywood I had handy could knock this out in a couple hours for zero money. BUT, if one was willing to coat it with most ANYTHING it may well last a long time. Why wouldn't it? My picnic table sits out all the time. Rain, shine, snow, and I just give it a quick coat of latex every few years. I've replaced a couple boards, but most are still doing just fine after 25 years! My boat lives under a cover much of the time and the transom wood rarely sees more than a small amount of moisture. Outside only.

Like @thill 's Spectrum, replacing the transom wood in my boat is going to be a royal PITA so I would likely go the extra mile. Otherwise, I think it is perfectly fine to take a basic approach like you describe. Gets the job done adequately. The only thing I might disagree with is using any ply. I would use at least exterior grade. I take the same approach with my trailer bunks. Instead of using expensive composites, I use standard fir 2x. Don't coat them with anything, Expect to replace them every once in a while.
 
One question: When I buy "regular" ply it's called CDX. X meaning exterior right? OK, two questions: Does this CDX also contain chemicals that don't play nice with aluminum? Maybe for that reason it's best to coat it with something I'm thinking.
 
One question: When I buy "regular" ply it's called CDX. X meaning exterior right? OK, two questions: Does this CDX also contain chemicals that don't play nice with aluminum? Maybe for that reason it's best to coat it with something I'm thinking.

CDX is exterior with one OK side and one not so OK side. It would use water resistant glue, but other than that I really don't know what if any chemicals are used. Coating it with something is always going to make it last longer and be a best practice. That would apply even to marine grade I think.
 
Just to be clear, we are talking 1 part spar, 1 part boiled linseed oil and 2 parts mineral spirits as the ingredients of Old Timers' Formula, right? How does this stack up against a sealing-grade epoxy?
Did we ever get an answer to how the OTF stacks up to epoxy?? If we did I missed it.
Also, how long does it take OTF to fulling dry/cure??
 
I use White Oak top coated with spar varnish! Last a looong time!
 
I have the old transom out of my 82 SeaNymph. What do you suppose we're looking at around the bottom bolt holes? It is the side facing the aluminum skin. It's silver in color but doesn't appear to be any sort of sealant.
I'm just as curious as to how they got it in there??
20230801_170935.jpg20230801_170929.jpg
 
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It seems to been some attempt at waterproofing that area of the wood....?!
 
Honestly, after reviewing the numerous thread additions, there are really great points to consider here. However, I'd offer potentially, a simpler solution to the many well made points, specifically when it comes to cost compensation to the project.

I was really concerned with this subject and mutually digressed into costs to replace such a small transom, even on MY tiny 14' Sea Nymph, though, I wanted it to last for the remainder of its life. I decided to go with REGULAR 3/4" plywood, but apply at least 3-4 coats of fiberglass resin and sanding in between. Note; I live in Tucson, AZ so I accomplished this with dry and very hot conditions and over a two week period giving into extremely quality drying sessions in between. That being said, I have a rock hard application that no doubt, nearly a year later has shown zero deficiencies what so ever. I consistently change out my motors on the transom and it has yet to damage/pierce the epoxy base much less even being concerned about the wood becoming infiltrated. So, the answer to MY questions was answered using leftover 3/4" plywood, non marine grade and less than $40.00 of epoxy resin. Being an amateur, I believe I got the best bang for my buck in my application against cost and for the size of my watercraft. Sometimes we overthink things and Transoms are one component we want done correctly but I do believe this was a success on a nearly half-century old chasis and will likely outlive the rest of it.
Lots of great info in this thread. There is some nuanced stuff with which I disagree, but there is nothing wrong with any of your decisions.
Ultimately, by the design of your boat, (the stamped stern looks Myers?) the wooden components are acting as motor pads for vibration and clamping, not so much for structure and rigidity.
You're good to go, in my opinion. Nicely done.
 
What kind of wood do I need to use to replace transom on my 14’ Jon boat? Also do I need to treat it with something to keep it from rotting? And is there a type of wood that will last that requires no treatment?
Plywood works fine but let me clarify. Plywood is graded. Just because it says exterior glue on it doesn't mean it's meant for exterior use. It must be stamped EXTERIOR. Now, the plywood will have printed on it something like A/C, A/A, A/B, B/C or C/DX. These are the grades of the outside plys of the wood. A/A means both exterior plys are free of knot holes and sanded. A/B is not quite as nice but still very good. A/C is most common at the lumber stores and will work. I don't recommend CDX but the lumber guys will tell you it's made for exterior use. Maybe so but the C and D sides have many knot holes that will trap water and promote rot. I'd buy A/B EXTERIOR. You are probably going to have to laminate two layers together to get the thickness you want. I'd fabricate the piece and then paint it heavily all over with gloss, oil base paint. After the repair just insure you keep the boat elevated at the bow so water will drain away. The repair will last a long, long time.
What kind of wood do I need to use to replace transom on my 14’ Jon boat? Also do I need to treat it with something to keep it from rotting? And is there a type of wood that will last that requires no treatment?
 
I have a piece of 1" thick white oak that I bought years ago that I am planning to use to replace the transom on my '76 Meyers 14' Laker. Plan to plane it down to 3/4" and cut to the original transom dimensions. I have some polyester resin and hardener left from a recent project, and plenty of acetone. Probably should have just picked up some 3/4 ply, but the original transom is solid wood; maybe ash or something similar. It doesn't look like oak.

Will white oak take/absorb thinned fiberglass resin?
 
Question.............why would you want to cover that beautiful oak with a fiberglass resin? Properly sealed with Marine Spar varnish it will last for years and years.........my oak wood has been on my boat transom since 1978 and it still rock solid.
 
Question.............why would you want to cover that beautiful oak with a fiberglass resin? Properly sealed with Marine Spar varnish it will last for years and years.........my oak wood has been on my boat transom since 1978 and it still rock solid.
Well...I have poly resin in the garage already and it would cost nothing. The boat has damage from Hurricane Michael that I doubt I will ever be able to fix since the extruded alum gunwale is bent badly, so she will never be a showboat. I bought the oak before the hurricane, so I did have nicer plans for her, but stuff happens. I will look up spar varnish, though, and perhaps it is a better choice. I have a recently acquired 1959 Carter Craft that needs a bit of varnish work, so maybe I will soon have spar varnish in the garage, too. In fact, maybe the transom project is a good training exercise for the work I need to do on the Carter. Thanks for the input.

Oh, does the first coat of varnish need to be thinned to absorb into the wood, and if so, with what? I see in your earlier post that you did three coats on oak.
 
You could thin it with mineral spirits a little or you could warm the wood by placing it in the sun which will open up the pours some. I put 3 coats of Marine Spar varnish (satin) with a light steel wooling between coats and it has lasted a long time. Now if you use plywood I would say then the fiberglass application is probably a good idea. I live in Florida also so i know all about Hurricane damaged boats..........we got plenty of em down here too on the southwest coast.
 
As long as the wood has good lateral strength and won' t split or crack from clamping on the motor ir will be fine! Lots of good looking wood can be used. Most just opt for plywood due to its lateral strength. Mahogany was always my favorite for appearance. Have used mahogany laminated plywood to get both appearance and strength!!
 
Wanted to bump for a question regarding the wood as well!

I can’t seem to find 3/4 exterior plywood that is NOT treated at Lowe’s or HD. They do seem to have those other sizes like 23/32 etc. can those be used? Would it crest too much if a gap for the transom which was measured at 1.5in.
 
Wanted to bump for a question regarding the wood as well!

I can’t seem to find 3/4 exterior plywood that is NOT treated at Lowe’s or HD. They do seem to have those other sizes like 23/32 etc. can those be used? Would it crest too much if a gap for the transom which was measured at 1.5in.
You want ACX, BCX, CDX graded plywood, What you want is called 3/4". It's fractional size will be close to 24/32.
 
Yes, I just can’t find any of the exterior grades that are not treated. Unless I’m getting this wrong. At HD and lowes I see “treated” 3/4 BCX plywood. The word treated, is what specifically threw me off since I know not to use “pressure treated”. Are they treated with different chemicals?
 

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