what size motor

[Pappy]

Is there even any market for the old JohnnyR/udes anymore?
I've got a couple of late 50s era 35 horse, and a 63 40 horse electrashift, that were to be used on a couple of boats, that have long since left the building.

There is a market for those. Go to AOMCI.org and advertise what you have in there. With the electric shift try and keep all of the harnesses with the engine.

 

[Mudbugger]

There is a market for those. Go to AOMCI.org and advertise what you have in there. With the electric shift try and keep all of the harnesses with the engine.

Thanks Pappy, the electric shift has all of the harness and control box, the switch end is bad, but an aftermarket switch has been adapted.
As I recall, (it's been awhile) I even have the steering, push pull cable control.
One of the 35s, is electric start and I have all of the harness for it, as well as a tiller handle too.
The pull start already has the tiller handle on it.

Mud

 

[thill]

Any of the Johnson/Evinrudes from the late 70's on should work well. You might want to stay with the 2-strokes to maximize weight to power ratio.

I just tried to run a 12' Lowe rated for 15 HP with a Mercury 15 4-stroke. It did NOT go well. When I stepped in the boat, the back corner of the boat dipped down and scooped water! I quickly stepped forward, but I could have sunk it right there on the spot. With that motor, the boat felt as tippy as a canoe. I went to go on plane, and the nose went way high, and I didn't have my handle extension with me.

Too cold to swim, so I went home and swapped motors. Put on a 70's- early 80's vintage Mercury 9.9 and she runs and feels great with that motor, especially with the tank and battery in front of the bunk.

Older boats don't like 4-stroke weight unless you downsize a bit. But they sure are smooth and quiet. Sometimes a little less HP is worth it.

 

[thill]

Oh, and speaking about E-tec motors...

I have an Etec 40 on one of my pontoon boats, and I have to say, that engine is a joy to operate. Super smooth and quiet, touch the key and she's gone. Love the motor, BUT she is heavy. The 40 is the same motor as the 60.

For a jon boat, the 30, (next engine size down) is a really good choice. They are smooth and strong and almost completely trouble-free. I would trade a number of other motors I have for an Etec 30, if someone is interested, even a 2009 Mercury 25 4-stroke. I like the Etec that much.

 

[MrGiggles]

Oh, and speaking about E-tec motors...

I have an Etec 40 on one of my pontoon boats, and I have to say, that engine is a joy to operate. Super smooth and quiet, touch the key and she's gone. Love the motor, BUT she is heavy. The 40 is the same motor as the 60.

For a jon boat, the 30, (next engine size down) is a really good choice. They are smooth and strong and almost completely trouble-free. I would trade a number of other motors I have for an Etec 30, if someone is interested, even a 2009 Mercury 25 4-stroke. I like the Etec that much.

That was kinda my thinking with Etecs. They were not much lighter and more expensive than the comparable 4 stroke. I can see why BRP canned them, not much point in keeping them.

The diagnostic side of computers are great, IF you have the software to access it. I can't speak for other makes but Merc's Vesselview is next to useless if you want to do any real diag work, the trouble codes it provides are unique, only give you a vague description of the fault, and do not cross to anything in the service information that would lead you to the code setting criteria or troubleshooting data. To get any of that stuff, you need Merc's adapter and software to get the "real" code, in other words, head to the dealer.

It's not just outboards either. Got a code on an EFI ATV/side by side? Best you can do is cycle the key and count the flashes for your code. Once you have that you're down to a time consuming game of trial and error checking sensor inputs with a multimeter.

Got a Stihl or Husqvarna chainsaw with the Autotune carb that's acting up? Better head to the dealer, they're the only ones that can plug into it and read the fueling data. You'll spend yourself broke throwing parts at them attempting to DIY it.