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Winterizing a 25 hp Evinrude two stroke
- Thread starter sljohnson
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TREAT the fuel - Add stabilizer, shake tank well and run OB enough to make sure treated fuel got into the OB, at least 15-minutes.
FOG - Start engine, when warm, disconnect fuel line ... wait 2-3 minutes and spray fogging oil through the intake and continue spraying fogging oil into the engine until the OB dies. I'll run them about 1,200 RPMs, as fogging oil will bog down the motor, but you want to keep it running until she runs out of 'treated' fuel.
OTHER - Top off the cells in your battery, wait 3-days, then give it a charge before putting away.
LUBE - I take a few minutes to clean off the OB under the cowling/hood and I spray down any moving parts with a good lubricant.
STORE - Leave the OB vertical. If in freezing climates, do not leave the OB tilted up, I've seen water collect in the thru-hub exhaust system and crack lower unit housings.
FOG - Start engine, when warm, disconnect fuel line ... wait 2-3 minutes and spray fogging oil through the intake and continue spraying fogging oil into the engine until the OB dies. I'll run them about 1,200 RPMs, as fogging oil will bog down the motor, but you want to keep it running until she runs out of 'treated' fuel.
OTHER - Top off the cells in your battery, wait 3-days, then give it a charge before putting away.
LUBE - I take a few minutes to clean off the OB under the cowling/hood and I spray down any moving parts with a good lubricant.
STORE - Leave the OB vertical. If in freezing climates, do not leave the OB tilted up, I've seen water collect in the thru-hub exhaust system and crack lower unit housings.
Change lower unit oil, spray well with CRC or some other water displacing spray and follow above post.
New River Rat
Well-known member
I'll bet I'm the only person on the site that "summer"izes a boat. It goes all winter.
... can’t believe I forgot that, but yes, always change the LU lube after the engine has been run in gear, if you can. That keeps it all (acids, particles, whatever else) in suspension, so when you drain it, it all comes out.Crazyboat said:
CedarRiverScooter
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Cooling system self drains when the motor is upright.
this is a water pump housing from a vintage Johnson motor that came from "Up Nawth".
I have experienced this issue with three individual motors.
it was put away in the winter without really doing anything to it. water that had
accumulated in the water pump basin froze and expanded thus cracking and breaking out the fins.
So even though I am in Florida, where we hardly ever see a hard freeze, I know that it would
be a good idea to run some Prestone Antifreeze through the water cooling system prior to
long term storage above the Mason Dixie Line. (just my observation).
I have photos of the other two motors but can't put my finger on the file for now.
maybe the newer motors have a better drainage system than the older ones, I don't know.
I can only speak for the pre-1965 OMC models.
.
I have experienced this issue with three individual motors.
it was put away in the winter without really doing anything to it. water that had
accumulated in the water pump basin froze and expanded thus cracking and breaking out the fins.
So even though I am in Florida, where we hardly ever see a hard freeze, I know that it would
be a good idea to run some Prestone Antifreeze through the water cooling system prior to
long term storage above the Mason Dixie Line. (just my observation).
I have photos of the other two motors but can't put my finger on the file for now.
maybe the newer motors have a better drainage system than the older ones, I don't know.
I can only speak for the pre-1965 OMC models.
.
Hey Johnny,
Those photos convinced me... I'm planning on leaving that 35 on the boat this winter... is there a good thread for just how to run antifreeze into the motor ? I guess I could mix up a big barrel of it... but then what do you do with it afterwards ? Hoping there is a more reasonable idea out there ?
Those photos convinced me... I'm planning on leaving that 35 on the boat this winter... is there a good thread for just how to run antifreeze into the motor ? I guess I could mix up a big barrel of it... but then what do you do with it afterwards ? Hoping there is a more reasonable idea out there ?
I got the tip of antifreeze from AOMCI from the old timers that
have had issues with freezing water pumps for years.
they mentioned putting some AF in a 5 gallon bucket
and run it through the system prior to long term cold storage.
I guess you could purchase a new plastic bucket with a tight fitting lid
and save it for the next few years ?? do a search for it on https://www.aomci.org
I used " winterizing " in the search box and lots of info there. much as in the posts above.
I also have some photos of a water-freeze damaged RDS-20 water pump but can't find it now.
this was my learning experience of buying vintage motors from Up Nawth
to avoid local saltwater motors - - - - never thinking of freeze damage in the water system.
the Big Twins are just too cumbersome to take off the boat and turn upside down for a full drain.
OH - I also saw on the interweb where a Big Twin had water in the gear case and when it froze,
it cracked the clam shell housing...... another thing to check prior to winterizing.
oh well - such is life in the nautical world !!
fair winds and safe boating
have had issues with freezing water pumps for years.
they mentioned putting some AF in a 5 gallon bucket
and run it through the system prior to long term cold storage.
I guess you could purchase a new plastic bucket with a tight fitting lid
and save it for the next few years ?? do a search for it on https://www.aomci.org
I used " winterizing " in the search box and lots of info there. much as in the posts above.
I also have some photos of a water-freeze damaged RDS-20 water pump but can't find it now.
this was my learning experience of buying vintage motors from Up Nawth
to avoid local saltwater motors - - - - never thinking of freeze damage in the water system.
the Big Twins are just too cumbersome to take off the boat and turn upside down for a full drain.
OH - I also saw on the interweb where a Big Twin had water in the gear case and when it froze,
it cracked the clam shell housing...... another thing to check prior to winterizing.
oh well - such is life in the nautical world !!
fair winds and safe boating
I live "up north" and have a 1965 Johnson 33 with that chunk broke off in the waterpump area. I built it up with a bit of jb weld when I saw it. Seems to be ok but I am not even sure the jb is still there.
You could also use windshield washer fluid, most are good down to -20F or so, loads cheaper then regular antifreeze and you can then use it in your cars washer reservoir.
If you want to use prestone think about draining your car radiator and using the old stuff for the outboard and putting in the new.
If you want to use prestone think about draining your car radiator and using the old stuff for the outboard and putting in the new.
onthewater102
Well-known member
You shouldn't be using automotive antifreeze - you want to get propylene glycol based as it's non-toxic so when you go spraying it all over the place running it through the motor you're not introducing that toxic crap they use in cars into the water system.
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine---50-f-engine-water-system-antifreeze-gal--499848?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%2520-%2520Product%2520Type-_-499848&product_id=499848&adpos=1o1&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=s&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFzil5ZqSqB9bIN6E_eX-x-SBwZ0eoPbZmFLtOU8NxjPsz43eHv_0uIaAgM0EALw_wcB
https://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-marine---50-f-engine-water-system-antifreeze-gal--499848?cm_mmc=PS-_-Google-_-GSC%2520-%2520Product%2520Type-_-499848&product_id=499848&adpos=1o1&creative=108421551244&device=c&matchtype=&network=s&gclid=Cj0KCQiA84rQBRDCARIsAPO8RFzil5ZqSqB9bIN6E_eX-x-SBwZ0eoPbZmFLtOU8NxjPsz43eHv_0uIaAgM0EALw_wcB
One thing I noticed while disassembling the gear case is below the water pump there are weep holes in the side of the gearcase to allow water to drain back out. Two of my weep holes were plugged which allowed water to not drain. May have eventually frozen and cracked the upper gearcase housing
nccatfisher
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I had a special fitting I made for the ones with the small/old model unit to use a hose with. I would just use a tub if I were you.sljohnson said:
Hanr3
Well-known member
I do most of the winterizing that was mentioned, just a little differently.
First up, clean the boat inside and out. Vacuum out the inside, wash the outside and remove everything that isn't anchored down. If there is no mice food or bedding material, you are less likely to draw mice. Pulling everything out of the boat and moving it to the man-cave gives me all winter to respool reels, clean reels, tie up new jigs, sort/clean/organize my tackle boxes, repair/replace worn items, etc. I don't have to keep going back out to the boat all winter long.
I add Stabil to my gas tank during each fill-up. Never have to worry about adding it before winter or running it through the engine. It's already there. I try to top off the gas tank before the last fishing trip of the season. I prefer to store it with a full tank of gas.
I fog my engine, however I pull the spark plugs and spray the fogging oil in each piston chamber. I rotate the motor (in gear) by hand while spraying. This gets the oil where it needs to go and doesn't foul out my plugs. Not that foul plugs are a problem. I replace them every year. It's two plugs at $5-$6 each. Cheap maintenance.
I replace the lower unit oil for several reasons. 1) I check for water in my lower unit. If I have water, I have all winter to replace the seals. 2) If I left the water in the lower unit, it could freeze and crack my lower unit housing. 3) Motor is ready to go in the spring, no further maintenance needed.
While I am down there, I also pull the prop and look for fishing line. It will eat seals in no time. I do the same for the trolling motor.
As for water in the cooling system. By spinning the motor by hand I am turning the impeller. Any water left in the system drains out the intake holes. I am not running the motor and don't need muffs pumping water into the system. This leaves the fill holes open to the intake ports and drains the impeller housing. Leave the motor in the down position so water doesn't collect in the hub area.
One last comment. Running your motor until it is out of gas does not burn the gas in the carburetor fuel bowl. That fuel stays there all winter unless you specifically drain the bowl. Gasoline WILL gum up and leave varnish plugging the jets. Leading to a carb rebuild. Either drain the fuel from the bowl, or add stabilizer to the fuel to prevent gum/varnish build up. While most don't like ethanol. It does have the advantage of cleaning out gasoline gum/varnish deposits. Ethanol will keep your fuel system clean and gum/varnish free. Yes, I prefer ethanol blended fuels. If you want to debate ethanol, start another thread. Don't plug up this guys thread with that conversation.
I do pull my main battery and move it to the garage so I can keep it on a charger all winter. No on-board charger for the main battery. My boat lives under a lean-to attached to my shed all winter. Lean-to has a roof, but no sides and no heat. I also run a cord out to the on-board charger to keep my trolling motor batteries charged all winter. I also top off my batteries fluid levels. Make sure you use distilled water.
Now that my boat is winterized, in the spring. Drop in the main battery, check tire pressure on the trailer tires (look for dry rot or side wall cracking while your there), hook up, load my fishing gear and go fishing. If the trailer tires show signs of dry rot, or sidewall cracking, replace immediately. Trailer tires only last for 5-6 years. Do not go by tread wear. The rubber breaks down and your only clue is sidewall cracking. The sidewall carries the load. Fastest way to end a fishing trip is a blow out before you get to the ramp.
Seems like a lot, however when the ice is off the lake, I'm on the water. Been known to tent camp and fish with air temps in the 30's.
First up, clean the boat inside and out. Vacuum out the inside, wash the outside and remove everything that isn't anchored down. If there is no mice food or bedding material, you are less likely to draw mice. Pulling everything out of the boat and moving it to the man-cave gives me all winter to respool reels, clean reels, tie up new jigs, sort/clean/organize my tackle boxes, repair/replace worn items, etc. I don't have to keep going back out to the boat all winter long.
I add Stabil to my gas tank during each fill-up. Never have to worry about adding it before winter or running it through the engine. It's already there. I try to top off the gas tank before the last fishing trip of the season. I prefer to store it with a full tank of gas.
I fog my engine, however I pull the spark plugs and spray the fogging oil in each piston chamber. I rotate the motor (in gear) by hand while spraying. This gets the oil where it needs to go and doesn't foul out my plugs. Not that foul plugs are a problem. I replace them every year. It's two plugs at $5-$6 each. Cheap maintenance.
I replace the lower unit oil for several reasons. 1) I check for water in my lower unit. If I have water, I have all winter to replace the seals. 2) If I left the water in the lower unit, it could freeze and crack my lower unit housing. 3) Motor is ready to go in the spring, no further maintenance needed.
While I am down there, I also pull the prop and look for fishing line. It will eat seals in no time. I do the same for the trolling motor.
As for water in the cooling system. By spinning the motor by hand I am turning the impeller. Any water left in the system drains out the intake holes. I am not running the motor and don't need muffs pumping water into the system. This leaves the fill holes open to the intake ports and drains the impeller housing. Leave the motor in the down position so water doesn't collect in the hub area.
One last comment. Running your motor until it is out of gas does not burn the gas in the carburetor fuel bowl. That fuel stays there all winter unless you specifically drain the bowl. Gasoline WILL gum up and leave varnish plugging the jets. Leading to a carb rebuild. Either drain the fuel from the bowl, or add stabilizer to the fuel to prevent gum/varnish build up. While most don't like ethanol. It does have the advantage of cleaning out gasoline gum/varnish deposits. Ethanol will keep your fuel system clean and gum/varnish free. Yes, I prefer ethanol blended fuels. If you want to debate ethanol, start another thread. Don't plug up this guys thread with that conversation.
I do pull my main battery and move it to the garage so I can keep it on a charger all winter. No on-board charger for the main battery. My boat lives under a lean-to attached to my shed all winter. Lean-to has a roof, but no sides and no heat. I also run a cord out to the on-board charger to keep my trolling motor batteries charged all winter. I also top off my batteries fluid levels. Make sure you use distilled water.
Now that my boat is winterized, in the spring. Drop in the main battery, check tire pressure on the trailer tires (look for dry rot or side wall cracking while your there), hook up, load my fishing gear and go fishing. If the trailer tires show signs of dry rot, or sidewall cracking, replace immediately. Trailer tires only last for 5-6 years. Do not go by tread wear. The rubber breaks down and your only clue is sidewall cracking. The sidewall carries the load. Fastest way to end a fishing trip is a blow out before you get to the ramp.
Seems like a lot, however when the ice is off the lake, I'm on the water. Been known to tent camp and fish with air temps in the 30's.
