Wood transom really necessary on jon boat

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Another thing I would be concerned about is moisture getting between the wood and the transom skin.

I think the pros and cons to adding a wood motor mount are pretty well laid out in this thread. Personally, I would prefer to not add the wood and I wouldn't for a bolt on motor. For a clamp on motor I would do it just for the extra clamping bite (and still use a safety chain).
That is the idea for todays boater...there was a time and still is, where the piece of wood added on small boat transom is there because it is much cheaper than a solid alum transom, but we are talking little row boats here with clamp on motors. Have saw small boat transom with no wood, after some years, the transom is pretty chewed up from the clamps, even ripped open and punctured the aluminum metal. Gotta keep those clamps tire and the alum skin will give out without a sacrificial piece of wood.
 
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My friend went with composite when he redid his transom. Seemed to work well.
 
I’m with you on that but then i see everyone adding a wood transom to their jon boats that didn’t come that way from the factory and start wondering should i be doing the same with adding a wood transom . with max hp being only 5 hp do i really need to worry about such a small outboard ripping the aluminum transom apart . That’s what i’m worried about long term ownership
I have a 150hp 4 stroke on an all aluminum transom on my xpress. My 1979 1436 polarkraft has an all aluminum transom with a 5hp merc clamped to it and I expect it will make it another 44yrs of taken care of.
 
They make rubber pads to go between transom and outboard so the clamps won't mark up the transom. Prevent clamps from slipping too and as a bonus the rubber soaks up some vibrations.
that’s not a bad idea wonder if i could used small pieces of semi truck mudflaps under the clamping areas to prevent damage
 
I have a 150hp 4 stroke on an all aluminum transom on my xpress. My 1979 1436 polarkraft has an all aluminum transom with a 5hp merc clamped to it and I expect it will make it another 44yrs of taken care of.
Yes, with no doubt....however after some time the alum skin will be marred or possibly punctured, many folks don't like that !! People often don't clamp there motors as tight just because they don't want to damage the aluminum skin. My kicker is also clamped to my aluminum transom and I check it frequently and have a safety cable just in case. On my 12' jon boat I do have a piece of plywood on both sides of rhe transom and is easy to see the marks from the motor clamps, but easy and quick to replace that wood when needed.
 
that’s not a bad idea wonder if i could used small pieces of semi truck mudflaps under the clamping areas to prevent damage
Yes that works well. In my younger days 65 years back, they had clamp pads for outboard motors made from rubber as then, most outboards were clamp on !! I remember well when mfgrs went to bolt on motor mounts. People pitched a ***** about having to drill holes in there transoms, now an accepted practice.
 
Oh FFS!! It's a 10ft boat and a 5hp motor! You don't need wood if it's not there from the factory and don't bother with rubber mats etc. Rubber gets slippery when wet, so chances are the motor has a better chance of coming loose.

Just clamp the motor on and go enjoy it... don't overthink it
 
Wood or rubber can work to add grip to the transom for clamp-on type motors, and to dampen vibration for bolt on motors.

As one who has had more than one motor work it's way off a slick aluminum transom when making a hard turn, I'm all for making sure the motor is secure!

Some boats have a wood pad, some have a rubber one, and some have a piece of flat metal with the top edge bent out about 1/8" to catch the feet of the motor clamp . All of them work. Just make sure the pad is secured well to the transom.

I ALWAYS have something on my transoms to secure the motor! It's a bad feeling when suddenly the motor pops off and you are holding a running motor in your hand!
 
I really like the looks of a wood transom. Have a 12 inch wide board of red oak which is about 10 feet long. Plus I have a rather expensive planer so after glueing two 3/4 inch pieces together I can plane it down to the proper thickness. Seal it with a good quality sealant and it should not only work but look impressive.
 
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