Alumacraft SuperHawk CS build thread.

[bman2895]

Well my plan of attack on tbe transom skin is this. Alot of places where there are pinholes isn't actually super big areas. Just in the really deep pits. So I'm drilling those out. Shooting aluminum pop rivets into the holes however big they need to be. With the "flat side" on the inside of the skin as not to mess with laying the wood in too much. Wire brushing the pitted areas best I can to remove what I can for corrosion.

Then when all clean I'm either going to use JB weld. Or potentially Bondoglass. I've used the product on a few applications. But regardless something to fill in with a skim coat over the areas that are pitted and once that's set and sanded. I'll coat the inside,and potentially the outside, in POR-15 or similar.

 

[thill]

What kind of epoxy?

You want thin epoxy. One that will penetrate and "tooth" into the wood fibers, not sit on top like gel.

 

[thill]

Well my plan of attack on tbe transom skin is this. Alot of places where there are pinholes isn't actually super big areas. Just in the really deep pits. So I'm drilling those out. Shooting aluminum pop rivets into the holes however big they need to be. With the "flat side" on the inside of the skin as not to mess with laying the wood in too much. Wire brushing the pitted areas best I can to remove what I can for corrosion.

Then when all clean I'm either going to use JB weld. Or potentially Bondoglass. I've used the product on a few applications. But regardless something to fill in with a skim coat over the areas that are pitted and once that's set and sanded. I'll coat the inside,and potentially the outside, in POR-15 or similar.

Wire brush until shiny, put masking tape on the outside, and skim the pitted/pinhole areas with JB weld made for aluminum. Once it's set, remove the masking tape. JB makes a very, very good product that lasts for many years, as long as you got the area nice and clean for a strong bond.

Once sandwiched between the layers, you shouldn't ever have to worry about it, but I would recommend painting the inside of the skin after patching, to prevent further corrosion in there.

Titebond II or Titebond III should work well for you. You certainly could use a 1/8"x1/8" notched trowel to spread it for full coverage, but do it with the flat side of the trowel first, as much of it will be absorbed, and then switch to the notched side, so you get a good bite into the wood for a very strong bond.

 

[bman2895]

Wire brush until shiny, put masking tape on the outside, and skim the pitted/pinhole areas with JB weld made for aluminum. Once it's set, remove the masking tape. JB makes a very, very good product that lasts for many years, as long as you got the area nice and clean for a strong bond.

Once sandwiched between the layers, you shouldn't ever have to worry about it, but I would recommend painting the inside of the skin after patching, to prevent further corrosion in there.

Titebond II or Titebond III should work well for you. You certainly could use a 1/8"x1/8" notched trowel to spread it for full coverage, but do it with the flat side of the trowel first, as much of it will be absorbed, and then switch to the notched side, so you get a good bite into the wood for a very strong bond.

Which JB weld is ideal for aluminum? Just the original formula? And I 100% plan on priming and using a good thick sealer to paint the inside the skin

 

[bman2895]

Looks like either JB waterweld, JB marine weld or original JB weld are the best options.

 

[LDUBS]

Looks like either JB waterweld, JB marine weld or original JB weld are the best options.

Both JB marineweld and JB weld are commonly used on aluminum. Don't know anything about JB waterweld.

 

[bman2895]

So my new game plan is this. My resource to weld aluminum has changed. So. I'll fill the pitting in best I can. Chuck a wood transom in it. Bolt it together. Go out and make sure the boats gonna be everything I want it to be. Then I'll strip it all back apart and just go all aluminum for the transom. Turns out a co-worker has a welder that can do aluminum. A spool gun type. And at that time I'll deal with actually replacing that transom skin.

 

[LDUBS]

So my new game plan is this. My resource to weld aluminum has changed. So. I'll fill the pitting in best I can. Chuck a wood transom in it. Bolt it together. Go out and make sure the boats gonna be everything I want it to be. Then I'll strip it all back apart and just go all aluminum for the transom. Turns out a co-worker has a welder that can do aluminum. A spool gun type. And at that time I'll deal with actually replacing that transom skin.

Since you are talking about replacing the transom skin, take a look at this thread. I thought it was a unique and effective way to address transom corrosion.

https://www.tinboats.net/threads/tr...tarcraft-superfisherman-176.51160/post-508390

 

[bman2895]

So I have toyed with the idea of bonding another skin to the inside of this current skin. Wouldn't cost too much. What would best bond the two aluminum surfaces? Just JB weld? There's no transom cap to worry about per say. The cap is just part of the existing skin.

I've also realized I used the wrong pop rivets to do what I planned for the pin holes. Those all have to come out. Didn't use sealed end rivets so likely gonna leak. Or I can just fill them in with the jb weld. Not sure yet

 

[LDUBS]

So I have toyed with the idea of bonding another skin to the inside of this current skin. Wouldn't cost too much. What would best bond the two aluminum surfaces? Just JB weld? There's no transom cap to worry about per say. The cap is just part of the existing skin.

I've also realized I used the wrong pop rivets to do what I planned for the pin holes. Those all have to come out. Didn't use sealed end rivets so likely gonna leak. Or I can just fill them in with the jb weld. Not sure yet

I think I pasted the wrong link earlier. This one shows the second skin being added. He talked about using G-Flex Epoxy.

https://www.tinboats.net/threads/1999-starcraft-superfisherman-transom-restoration.51213/post-515351

 

[thill]

If you plan to weld the pinholes and pitting, it helps to press a piece of steel to the opposite side of the panel while welding. That helps prevent blow-through in the super thin areas, and makes it go a lot faster.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

So I have toyed with the idea of bonding another skin to the inside of this current skin. Wouldn't cost too much. What would best bond the two aluminum surfaces? Just JB weld? There's no transom cap to worry about per say. The cap is just part of the existing skin.

I've also realized I used the wrong pop rivets to do what I planned for the pin holes. Those all have to come out. Didn't use sealed end rivets so likely gonna leak. Or I can just fill them in with the jb weld. Not sure yet

3M5200 should bond the two together.

 

[Shadow Jr.]

So I have toyed with the idea of bonding another skin to the inside of this current skin. Wouldn't cost too much. What would best bond the two aluminum surfaces? Just JB weld? There's no transom cap to worry about per say. The cap is just part of the existing skin.

I've also realized I used the wrong pop rivets to do what I planned for the pin holes. Those all have to come out. Didn't use sealed end rivets so likely gonna leak. Or I can just fill them in with the jb weld. Not sure yet

So I had two good size bolt holes in my transom that repaired with JB Marine aluminum weld this spring. So it appears to be holding in place without any cracking or leaks in my transom. So far I'm happy with this product.