Recent content by mbullen

#17359 is actually 1957. This was a transition year for floor construction, too. Yours should have the "long ribs" running fore to aft. Awesome to have the Alumacraft oars! They are a desirable item. If you notice the forward seat bench brackets, the arched shape should allow you to store...

Awesome boat! Vintage Alumacraft is of the top tier. They are tanks. The Model F was one of their best selling models, running from 1948 well into the '80s in the same configuration. (For what it's worth, I can dial in your exact date of production with the serial found stamped on the spine...

Hey TexasJim...Just for a matter of record, the Federal HIN system began in 1972. This Act required the 12-digit universal Coast Guard code to be attached to the transom. Earlier boats may or may not have a model/serial number. Each manufacturer had their own system and location. (and in many...

hey Spicy... Your model E is from 1955. 1500 units of the model E produced that year with production beginning in 1947. The trick to decoding is to have a copy of the factory records. lol (It's a long story) Anyways, for what it's worth, I've shared the records with the admin of the "Vintage...

Marine Ply, White Oak, and Mahogany are the usual suspects. Many folks have good results with exterior ply, also. Avoid treated stuff. Sealing has multiple avenues, as well. Worthy of it's own discussion, probably. For non-wood, Coosa Blueboard is the standard...but pricey. Personally, I've...

Yeah....that's how I ended up with two. Lolol

As a 2024 update to this older thread, I have purchased two batteries online at walmart this year. Each were purchased online and picked up locally. Each charged a core charge. (can't remember how it was listed, but it was $12). Ultimately, the final price was still cheaper than...

In my experience, it's not the oil, it's the motor. "Ask your Javelin" means to experiment until you find the happy medium for that specific engine. ...if it means that much to you, anyway. Personally, blue smoke doesn't bother me, but if I'm playing around, many of my motors prefer Amsoil...

Perfect. lol To be fair, I'm just guessing. ...but I've got nearly 100 old motors for reference. But I wouldn't worry about addressing it at all, really. Those that know will know, those that don't ... well it doesn't affect performance anyway. Good luck with the sale!

If that's the case, vintage outboard guys are typically more interested in the compression numbers than anything. They'll typically do the total rehab thing themselves, anyway. (expect to lose a couple of points for the non-factory paint job and the under-hood corrosion that suspiciously looks...

I would suggest using a maroon Scotch-Brite pad to simply knock off the flakes. What remains will most likely continue to remain. If you are considering a repaint, one can fix what flaked or go whole hog. Fixing what flaked is just a matter of hitting the bare aluminum with a self-etching...

Cold doesn't bother a venerable 2-stroke. As long as your cooling water isn't frozen, you're good to go. Also, you are correct in that muffs will not work. The primary intake is the triangular extension right behind the prop. Any container will work as a test tank...barrel, trash can, etc...

Well, its a one-year-only design and horsepower. But to be fair, I'm only identifying it by the pic of the cowl (which has been repainted non-factory colors, btw). I guess it's possible someone has used the Javelin hood on a different motor, though. You can confirm with the model number found...

Cool ride! I also have an Admiral, though a '57. That Deluxe layout was a one-year-only design. Very nice! For what it's worth, your Javelin is also a '56 but it's 30hp. Another one-year-only design, by the way.

Personally, I've never tried but they have completely different part numbers for the lower pan and the seal.