Older Lund…WC14?

Hey folks,

I just purchased a used WC14. The previous owner claimed it is a 1989. The serial appears to correspond, ending in ..89 but then has a dash “S” with a circle around it. The nameplate does list it’s a Lund-Larson WC-14-15 which I assume means it’s a 15” transom (which it is).

What baffles me are the dimensions. It has a 62” beam and seems deeper than most WC14’s I’ve seen online. The transom steps up from 15” in the middle to 20”. At its deepest it’s about 24”.

It also has 3 full seats that are the full width of the boat and not a split rear seat like most I see.

Does all this info line up to it being a 1989 WC-14?

I have a 9.8hp 4 stroke that I plan on using (for now) rather than the 8hp 2 stroke that came with it.

Thanks ahead for any feedback. Looking forward to this project, I’ve already gotten some inspiration from this site.

Cheers.

I have a Lund S14; 1979 model year. It, too, has side to side benches.

Lund has all of their model year catalogs online for easy download. Those catalogs provide some useful info and pictures of the various models. I suggest you peruse those catalogs; that's how I discovered a lot about my boat specs.

Your 15" transom is the short height transom; same as mine. If you're ever looking for a motor, you're best off with a short shaft model as they're designed to hang on 15" transoms.

Good luck!

I would consider adding a splash well to that short transom for a just in case. Easy to fab or there are after market add ons.

airshot said:

I would consider adding a splash well to that short transom for a just in case. Easy to fab or there are after market add ons.

Click to expand...

Can you refer me to some aftermarket?

Do some searching or some one more computor savy may jump in here. This 74 yr old gent gets into enough trouble on my computor. " Splash Well add ons" or if you have a sheetmetal shop in your area, they can be easily fabricated. As a retired toolmaker, I have made a few over the years.

Splash well is a good idea but will take up a lot of real estate on that boat. A splash guard in the transom notch is another alternative. The idea is to prevent swamping if a wave or backwash comes over the notched transom. If on plane, don't abruptly stop the boat -- come off slowly. If fishing mill ponds, then not an issue (unless you have a bigger problem). If in chop/waves then might be an issue especially if the boat is transom heavy.

LDUBS said:

Splash well is a good idea but will take up a lot of real estate on that boat. A splash guard in the transom notch is another alternative. The idea is to prevent swamping if a wave or backwash comes over the notched transom. If on plane, don't abruptly stop the boat -- come off slowly. If fishing mill ponds, then not an issue (unless you have a bigger problem). If in chop/waves then might be an issue especially if the boat is transom heavy.

Click to expand...

They used to be made in different sizes, I agree that many are way to big and take up valuable space. In years gone by, the few I made were not that big, just enough to catch that backwash if you made a quick stop or had to reverse in a choppy sea.

If this doesn't take you there directly, your specs are on page 21. https://www.lundboats.com/bcom/cata...sL2RvY3VtZW50cy8xOTg5LUx1bmQtQ2F0YWxvZy5wZGY=

Thanks to everyone for the reply’s. @Buster, that brochure does appear to match with one exception. The brochure lists a max Hp of 25hp, however the nameplate on my boat indicates 15kW (20hp).

I spent some time over last winter refurbishing the boat. I had the old paint sandblasted off. I then polished the lower half, and painted interior and exterior (tremclad w/ hardener) . The benches were replaced with plywood covered in fiberglass resin. Next, I ordered vintage decals (wanted newer, but they were $$$$). I topped it off with some nice seats.
Like I said previously, I have a tohatsu 9.8hp 4 stroke for it, but considering trading up for a 20hp. I also had a 12ft jon boat that I sold, but not before swapping trailers so I could keep the newer/nicer one.

One thing that stands out to me is there are no supports from the bench to the rails. Anyone know where I could source them?

It is as good as new. Probably better. That's very good work and I like it.
Thanks for posting the results.

Your boat looks great!

I put the same decals on my S14.

As for the bracing from the benches to the gunwales, I don't have a source. I presume a previous owner removed them. I will say that I wish those braces on mine weren't always in the way, but I think they're necessary for structural integrity.

Instead of looking for a source, I think I'd fab some from aluminum bar stock. I don't think it would be hard. I can provide some up close pictures and measurements from my boat if you decide that's the way you want to go.

The way the benches are installed the added supports are not necessary. Often they are added as rod holders with no real structural support. I would not be the least bit concerned about them.

I'm the owner of my dad's '66 Lund C-14. Different construction and the supports are required. I agree with Airshot that they aren't necessary for your newer WC.
In my last trip of the year in northern MN. Will be cutting out the middle bench this winter as my last major mod.
It's small. It's unsteady. But it's the boat I learned to fish in nearly 60 years ago and it's the one I want to use.

That's it down at the dock

I just sold my tohatsu 9.8hp and purchased a 2011 Mercury 20hp 4 stroke with electric start. After a quick test run and polish I think it will pair well with the WC14. Similar to others, I plan to install a deck/storage between the front bench and the bow and floors everywhere else. I also have a Group 24 battery that I would like to mount for the motor and electronics.

Some questions that come to mind are:
- anyone have this motor/boat combo have prop recommendation? (Thinking 9P vs stock 10p)
- any recommendations for battery location?

Without trying to cheerlead my own parade....my solution for battery placement can be found in my build thread. See the link in my signature line.

Can't help on the prop. I'm running the stock prop on my Merc 20HP. If it was me, and if the current prop is in acceptable condition, I'd run it with the current prop and then decide if something else is desired.

Use it for a while before deciding on a prop. You will be adding weight as your build moves along and that weight can cause a change in pitch required.