Optimal jet boat for the fishing I want to do

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Well, I did it. Should be all put together by the end of the month.

Anyone know if a 45" shaft length on the 36V Ultrex is sufficient for the 18CCJ? Don't want to find out that I should have gone 52" and want to err on the side of not being too long. The shallow rivers I'll be running would not be forgiving while bumping over rocks. Upgraded from the 80 and went with a single 36V LFP. Dealer talked me out of going with Humminbird electronics as the Garmins are cheaper, thinner displays with more clarity and controls. Assuming the xducer in the bottom of the Ultrex will work seamlessly? Not sure what else I am giving up by combining MK and Garmin.

Need to buy a house battery for electronics, radios, etc.

Also had them install a rescue ladder to aid in the family extracting themselves from the water on the hot sunny days. Anyone have any thoughts on these?

Planning on a Bimini cover and installing some LED lighting as well.

Looking forward to getting it out on the water. 75F temps yesterday had me itching to get out.

Thanks for all the help and advice. Really appreciate everyones input to helping me find a solution.

Rob
 
Well, I did it. Should be all put together by the end of the month.

Anyone know if a 45" shaft length on the 36V Ultrex is sufficient for the 18CCJ? Don't want to find out that I should have gone 52" and want to err on the side of not being too long. The shallow rivers I'll be running would not be forgiving while bumping over rocks. Upgraded from the 80 and went with a single 36V LFP. Dealer talked me out of going with Humminbird electronics as the Garmins are cheaper, thinner displays with more clarity and controls. Assuming the xducer in the bottom of the Ultrex will work seamlessly? Not sure what else I am giving up by combining MK and Garmin.

Need to buy a house battery for electronics, radios, etc.

Also had them install a rescue ladder to aid in the family extracting themselves from the water on the hot sunny days. Anyone have any thoughts on these?

Planning on a Bimini cover and installing some LED lighting as well.

Looking forward to getting it out on the water. 75F temps yesterday had me itching to get out.

Thanks for all the help and advice. Really appreciate everyones input to helping me find a solution.

Rob
Congrats on the boat😎 As far as the T-motor. You can always adjust to go shallower with shaft length. A simple loosening the collar and sliding the shaft up, but you can’t go longer. The dealer should have the information of what works on that boat. If your going to err, err on the side of to long
 
Congrats! I take it, it is going to fit in the garage :)

Given our expierence with a MG Xi3 52" shaft on the 17' CCJ, would not go shorter. Our collar is set 6-7" below the head, to allow for easier store/deploy. If both people on are the back deck, as in netting a good fish in the current, the prop will break the surface. I think same will happen with only one person in boat, on the back deck. Even if the MK collar is all the way to the head, it will be marginal.

I have only had biminis on pleasure boats. On a fishing rig, I'd want those slider mounts such that when booted, it will reside at the transom, but when deployed, will be more toward the center of the boat.
 
Assuming you have a universal transducer in the MK, their will be a pigtail for the Garmin. It will be 2D only. Probably didn't give up much with not getting HB. Maybe just screen control of TM and chart navigation.

I use a 25aH LiFePO4 for the electronics, but recommend you waiting to see what room you have in the console with a 36V battery in there.
 
Thanks all, pretty excited as I have been thinking about this since the start of COVID and probably should have pulled the trigger sooner. Will still get time on the water with boys who haven't ditched their dad officially as of yet.

Appears I'll have at least 5" of length to spare in the garage. Now time to get it cleaned out. Seems like a good excuse and motivator!!

I'm kind of torn on the trolling motor and don't want to regret a decision based on a pretty good price for the 112 Ultrex. They're selling that unit for 2K and a decent discount on the Ionic battery as well. The battery for the motor is a group 31 36V 50Ah LFP so dealer is putting in that size trays. He recommended a 100Ah 12V LFP for house battery to run electronics, etc.

Since all of my fishing in the past has been with no electronics, I am a bit naive as to what capabilities I'll want and actually use. I see most all of my time being spent on the river, so doubt I'll use features like contour following or have the need for anything Livescope. What I really expect to be able to do is cruise or troll along new areas, find cover and features and then locate some fish. Also very important (I think) to understand depth of operating areas as well. As far as being able to see a fish swallow a Fluke, maybe in the future??? His recommendation was the Garmin 93SV since they are priced so low right now. I know that the US2 transducer in the bottom of the MK will lock out features on the Garmin, but I expect this unit to be at the console when looking for new areas to fish. I suppose if I decide to install something at the bow in the future, another more capable transducer can be mounted on the TM. I suspect interference will be a problem with both mounted beside each other so possibility is to mount xducer in the back?

FuzzyGrub, as far as the Bimini mounts, I have looked at the sliders as you suggest and I think they are definitely the way to go assuming the track at the top of the gunnel accepts those type of sliders. Didn't ask dealer specifically. Would like the ability to push it forward and fold it down out of the way. Just for the sake of having some adjustment.

Also looked at some of the step options to bolt on the front of the trailer. Trailer is aluminum, and any options I have seen are painted steel. Will be the first thing to rust but thinking this will be a must have to get my almost 80 year old dad on board.

Again, truly appreciate everyone's feedback and has helped me a great deal in narrowing down the decisions.

Rob
 
I gather the “house” battery is used to start the outboard as well. If that’s the case you may run into interference issues with your electronics. You may want to look into running your electronics on its own battery. With the price of electronics these days I want them to perform to their optimal. When I upgraded to Garmin UHD units I installed a separate 50AH battery just for them. Tucked it into a storage compartment. No fun running wires to it but well worth the effort. I’ve since added a battery tray. Today I’m running power wires from a new unit at the console into that battery and will be able to tidy up the wires for good.
 

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Thanks all, pretty excited as I have been thinking about this since the start of COVID and probably should have pulled the trigger sooner. Will still get time on the water with boys who haven't ditched their dad officially as of yet.

Appears I'll have at least 5" of length to spare in the garage. Now time to get it cleaned out. Seems like a good excuse and motivator!!

I'm kind of torn on the trolling motor and don't want to regret a decision based on a pretty good price for the 112 Ultrex. They're selling that unit for 2K and a decent discount on the Ionic battery as well. The battery for the motor is a group 31 36V 50Ah LFP so dealer is putting in that size trays. He recommended a 100Ah 12V LFP for house battery to run electronics, etc.

Since all of my fishing in the past has been with no electronics, I am a bit naive as to what capabilities I'll want and actually use. I see most all of my time being spent on the river, so doubt I'll use features like contour following or have the need for anything Livescope. What I really expect to be able to do is cruise or troll along new areas, find cover and features and then locate some fish. Also very important (I think) to understand depth of operating areas as well. As far as being able to see a fish swallow a Fluke, maybe in the future??? His recommendation was the Garmin 93SV since they are priced so low right now. I know that the US2 transducer in the bottom of the MK will lock out features on the Garmin, but I expect this unit to be at the console when looking for new areas to fish. I suppose if I decide to install something at the bow in the future, another more capable transducer can be mounted on the TM. I suspect interference will be a problem with both mounted beside each other so possibility is to mount xducer in the back?

FuzzyGrub, as far as the Bimini mounts, I have looked at the sliders as you suggest and I think they are definitely the way to go assuming the track at the top of the gunnel accepts those type of sliders. Didn't ask dealer specifically. Would like the ability to push it forward and fold it down out of the way. Just for the sake of having some adjustment.

Also looked at some of the step options to bolt on the front of the trailer. Trailer is aluminum, and any options I have seen are painted steel. Will be the first thing to rust but thinking this will be a must have to get my almost 80 year old dad on board.

Again, truly appreciate everyone's feedback and has helped me a great deal in narrowing down the decisions.

Rob

I have seen people on the FB G3 Jet Boat group indicate the 45" is enough for the 18 CCJ. There must be something I'm missing. Maybe MK doesn't include the collar in the shaft length? or those people always had someone on the front deck. Don't know.

While we have the trolling motor wired for a bow display, seldom bother to plug it in. Only used for depth in our shallow water fishing.

The bimini sliders would have to mount on the flat sides vs the accessory rail.

Aluminum trailer? That is new. We have the galvanized. Is it still a Bear trailer?

You do know, that everyone is waiting for pictures, correct? :D
 
It's definitely aluminum and they're still built by Bear. Impressive looking trailer and I am sure I'll appreciate not having to paint it to maintain it.

I located some mounts from Brocract for the tube feet on the Bimini that I think will attach into that 1/4" groove. Then they angle up to match the approach of the tubing down to the gunnel. I'll check with the dealer and ask some questions on those.

Would your electronics come more in handy if you weren't fishing the same areas all of the time or is it just the novelty and / or the need to use them has worn off?

Photo is kind of comical. Sat in and walked around this boat for an hour the other day and didn't take a single pic. I'll post them when I bring it home!!
 
It's definitely aluminum and they're still built by Bear. Impressive looking trailer and I am sure I'll appreciate not having to paint it to maintain it.

I located some mounts from Brocract for the tube feet on the Bimini that I think will attach into that 1/4" groove. Then they angle up to match the approach of the tubing down to the gunnel. I'll check with the dealer and ask some questions on those.

Would your electronics come more in handy if you weren't fishing the same areas all of the time or is it just the novelty and / or the need to use them has worn off?

Photo is kind of comical. Sat in and walked around this boat for an hour the other day and didn't take a single pic. I'll post them when I bring it home!!

I haven't heard anything about the Bear aluminum trailers, but their steel and galv steel have had some issues from reports I've seen. Bad welds, cracked welds, and even trailers not built square. Ours is fine though, but would nave appreciated larger, stronger tubing. It flexes some winching the boat on. I'd give it a good scrutiny of it at the dealer. It is easy to forget the trailer when you are drooling over boat and motor. ;) Maybe they have much better QA on the new aluminum, though.

I have brocraft mounts for rod holders and lure tray/cup holders. I added innertube washers for better hold. Sliding a binimi top in those channels is probably doable, but probably awkward.

In 35+ years of fishing the river, never IDed a smallie on electrionics that I was able to catch. Some walleyes and cats. Reading the water, current seams, expierence, etc plays more of role. Our waters are generally murky, and can't tell depth by sight. So, 2D is a must.
 
Trailer looked stout but I know where corners are cut and will definitely give it a look over.

I can imagine if they would bind as you close them if things were out of whack. I'll consider that before purchasing the Brocraft and see what is involved with other mounts.

Hoping to shorten the learning curve when I show up cold at rivers I've always wanted to fish. As I get older, a skunk isn't a bad thing if I wasn't at work and got to be on the water. I didn't have patience like that 20 years ago.
 
Sounds like a nice set up to me!
I have much the same in the electronics and am mounting a 80lb Ulterra and am running three 100AH Lithiums in a little 13'4" boat. That set up wouldn't be really possible with lead acid. My bulid is behind and I've side lined for a number weeks due to some health junk, so can't speak to performance yet. My plan is to run a Garmin transducer and not loose those things that I just paid too much money for. I don't care if I don't use the transducer on the trolling motor, yes it would nice but not at all why I got a MK. Just thought you might consider just putting the correct transducer on it and not start off limiting yourself on the stuff you have. Just my two cents and I am sure you love your new boat. Matter of fact I think I would like to have it!
 
Sounds like a nice set up to me!
I have much the same in the electronics and am mounting a 80lb Ulterra and am running three 100AH Lithiums in a little 13'4" boat. That set up wouldn't be really possible with lead acid. My bulid is behind and I've side lined for a number weeks due to some health junk, so can't speak to performance yet. My plan is to run a Garmin transducer and not loose those things that I just paid too much money for. I don't care if I don't use the transducer on the trolling motor, yes it would nice but not at all why I got a MK. Just thought you might consider just putting the correct transducer on it and not start off limiting yourself on the stuff you have. Just my two cents and I am sure you love your new boat. Matter of fact I think I would like to have it!

I'll be interested in how it works out for you. Mounting can be usually accomplished with some aftermarket adapter. The issue I had was the cable management. Preventing 360 degree wrap and keeping it out of the stow and deploy mechanism. On my MG Wireless I came up with this: Transducer Mount

The GPS equiped TM's should prevent the wrap, but catching or pinching the cable may still be a problem. On our MG Xi3 it would be. I don't know about the MKs in discussion, though. Even though the above approach worked well, I went with an internal 2D transducer in our latest TM purchase.

Maybe some type of cable wrap will help protect it?
 
So, I owe you all some photos as it has been a few months since I picked it up. And I noticed I don't actually have any good ones of just the boat. I'll have to remember to take some more next time it is out.

Super happy with the build so far. Went ahead and got the Garmin Kraken to replace the Minnkota. Amazing trolling motor.

Had some issues with the winch roller frame twisting; dealer sent me larger U-bolts to reinforce and I noticed they are high carbon steel not stainless so they are still sitting in my garage.

I did hook up the NMEA network cable to the engine in hopes that I would get the hours and other relevant data; data comes up, still indicates --:-- for hours? Anyone have any tips on getting that to work I would appreciate it.

Boat has been all over PA this summer and I just returned from Alex Bay and the St. Lawrence. Took my dad for his 80th birthday and it took me to the last day to put him on some nice fish. My cousin and I caught big fish all week.

Used the Brocraft mounts to put on a Bimini. Really liked not drilling holes in the gunwale. No binding of the support rails when it is up, and the support straps go directly to a Brocraft circle mount. Up and down in 2 minutes, lays flat in the back when not in use. The one pic I have of it up is too large for the site to accept lol.

So, as these things go, now I am looking at truck campers to put in the back of a rather large diesel 1 ton to pull this puppy across the county over the next few years as I mull over retirement. We used to have a Class C when my boys were young and we did a lot of camping. I can't imagine backing this boat into the river with a 30' Minnie Winnie. Took the wife to the Hershey RV show and after being inside some of the nicer Lance's, I think she is sold.

Thanks for all of your help folks. More pictures to come as the adventures rack up.
 

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Glad it has been a good season with your new river sled. :)

What do you have for a display with the NMEA2K and is it displaying other data? It just worked when I hooked it up to the SIMRAD.
 
Hi FuzzyGrub,

It's been a blast. I've had it on the Allegheny, Susquehanna, Juniata and the St. Lawrence as well as numerous lakes.

I am getting engine RPM, just 0 output for engine hours. At the rate I am going, I have to be near the first 20 hour engine oil change but not exactly sure. Dealer told me that I would need an additional connector to register the trim, but truthfully, trim seems to do nothing whether trying to get on plane or just run higher in the water.
 
Hi FuzzyGrub,

It's been a blast. I've had it on the Allegheny, Susquehanna, Juniata and the St. Lawrence as well as numerous lakes.

I am getting engine RPM, just 0 output for engine hours. At the rate I am going, I have to be near the first 20 hour engine oil change but not exactly sure. Dealer told me that I would need an additional connector to register the trim, but truthfully, trim seems to do nothing whether trying to get on plane or just run higher in the water.
How did it do with cavitation on the waves on the lakes?

If the rpm is working, I'd call your display mfgs tech support. There is probably a setting to change.

Yes, I had to connect a wire on the motor to get the trim to register. Might be two pink wires??? Found it searching the net but escapes me right now.
 
May need to reach out to Garmin as you suggested.

Cavitation was evident only on the St. Lawrence actually. Chop on some days was 2 to 2.5' and it seemed as though while skipping over the humps, it would unload slightly. Faster seemed to be better but the pucker factor of slamming the hull into the oncoming waves was a bit sketchy. This was the only waterway so far that I wished I could swap out the drive with a prop for just that trip.
 

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