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Thanks Hosstyle, I should have mentioned that I tried that and my better half chastised me for getting the cheap stuff and she was right it didn't break down the build up. I also should have mentioned that it is aluminum only, no paint of any kind, actually pontoon tubes. I really think this...

My boat sat in the water this summer for a month. Now I've got algae or calcium built up on the hull to the water line. What can I use to help get it scrubbed back to clean aluminum? My neighbor said to acid wash but that seems to be a job I might want to hire done. Is there a good cleaning...

Thanks again Pappy. I'm replacing the thermostats needlessly, however since it's apart I am going to do it. I could see that they had not failed once I took them out. I will look at the idle to determine if it can be reduced. That would be great. I'll grease the cross shafts bushing too!

I disengaged the shift rod today after getting fuel lines lower carb and front lower cover off. I decided that there is not any wear on the bushings. Reassembling tomorrow and will see if I can get the adjustments made with the shift cable adjustment. Then on to thermostat replacement. No...

Here's another attempt at the picture. The bushing goes just to the left of the cotter pin.

My 1989 88 SPL won't always disingage from forward to nuetral. I found pieces of a bushing in the lower engine housing and felt some slop in the linkage where the cable connects. Disconnected the cables (they feel smooth) and see a clip but when I pulled the clip the linkage won't come out...

I checked the bulb and it is fine. In checking I could not hold pressure until I took the bulb out of the circuit to test. I noticed some leaking at the connector that clips on to the engine. I changed this connector and the fuel lines connecting the bulb and retested. The boat runs great now...

I Just water tested a new to me crestliner phantom 170 with a 1990 Johnson 88 spl. Engine runs fine at idle. Electric choke works. Fuel lines and primer bulb look to be recent (good flexibility and lack of sun or weathering problems. I pump fuel in with bulb and that works, but I expected to...

thanks fishinlite. It's only tight on the ends. I'll try the planer to thin it up and I'm going to take a 1/4 inch off the bottom where it will contact the support ribs so it will go in without being too tall.

We have a cardboard template. We are planning to use the cardboard template to locate the holes to be drilled for mounting the engine and the bolts to secure the transom to the support ribs. Sanding and tapering the two ends should help. The greatest resistance is at the two ends.

Transom board advise We completed cutting out the board and tried to slide it in. The template was cut to size. We are fearful it will just be too big but if we push it all the way in to test it we will not get it back out to finish with old timers formula. Should we give ourselves 1/4 inch on...

Thank you, Johnny. Great advice, I've seen a painter do it so I'll be giving it a try on some of my scrap first and then the final piece. Paul PS want to post some pictures but I'm having trouble navigating the site, mainly signing in on the phone. I've got a Samsung galaxy s 5 so it should be...

A friend and I are rebuilding his boat and he's trying to keep it the same or close to it. We've got a nice start on the transom and deck with help from lurking around here. There are a number of trim boards on the sides of the boat and near the transom that are plywood covered in a wood grain...