Johnson 88 SPL shift linkage sticks in forward

[westr212]

My 1989 88 SPL won't always disingage from forward to nuetral. I found pieces of a bushing in the lower engine housing and felt some slop in the linkage where the cable connects. Disconnected the cables (they feel smooth) and see a clip but when I pulled the clip the linkage won't come out. Parts diagram shows a bushing (the one in pieces in the lower housing ) a rod keeper bushing, and the shift rod lever attached to the rod where the bushing needs to be replaced. I can't reach the bolt in the shift rod lever with out removing the lower carb. I don't see any way around that. Does the rod keeper bushing wear out as well?
The shift linkage still feels a little sloppy making me think the rod keeper bushing is worn also. This engine is new to me so I am also concerned about the rod running down to the dog on the gears in the lower unit. Do I need to remove the lower unit?

 

[westr212]

Here's another attempt at the picture. The bushing goes just to the left of the cotter pin.

 

[Pappy]

After you pull the pin you have to push the linkage over to the port side of the engine to disengage the pin from the shift rod.

 

[westr212]

I disengaged the shift rod today after getting fuel lines lower carb and front lower cover off. I decided that there is not any wear on the bushings. Reassembling tomorrow and will see if I can get the adjustments made with the shift cable adjustment.
Then on to thermostat replacement. No restriction, flowing out pee hole upon starting engine so one or both thermostats are failing.

 

[Pappy]

Incorrect assumption on the thermostats restricting flow to the overboard indicator.
The indicator is independant of the thermostats altogether. You should get indicator flow immediately after the block fills.
The thermostats on that engine are there to warm the engine at idle only. There are large pressure relief valves that blow off with pressure and volume once the engine has accelerated. These are used to cool the engine back down. Also, OMC thermostats usually fail in the open position. They were designed that way.
Now....on the adjustment. There is a critical shift rod height that has to or should be set prior to you re-installing the gearcase. Grease the cross shaft bushings while you have the chance BTW.
Once set and re-installed The shift cable must be adjusted to the engine, not the other way around. In neutral the arm of the cross shaft should be very close to vertical if your shift rod height is correct. That is one indicator.
Shift the control box to neutral and adjust the cable trunnion to fit over the stud without moving the linkage on the engine at all.
One possible reason for difficulty pulling the engine out of gear at idle is that the idle RPM may be set too high. There is a 4 degree undercut on the gear and clutch dog that "locks" the gears together. The more power applied the better the locking.....easy to understand.

 

[westr212]

Thanks again Pappy. I'm replacing the thermostats needlessly, however since it's apart I am going to do it. I could see that they had not failed once I took them out. I will look at the idle to determine if it can be reduced. That would be great. I'll grease the cross shafts bushing too!