1986 Lund Predator renovation

[westr212]

A friend and I are rebuilding his boat and he's trying to keep it the same or close to it. We've got a nice start on the transom and deck with help from lurking around here.
There are a number of trim boards on the sides of the boat and near the transom that are plywood covered in a wood grain finish. It may be vynal or some other similar material that appears to be applied to the plywood or MDO board.
The lumber supply can offer veneer sheets to glue to the plywood but it seems a little pricey when you get done. Is there an good way you've used to get a wood grain look applied to plywood? Is there a good application guide?
Thanks, Paul

 

[Johnny]

welcome aboard !!
you will find that photos with your concerns will help the gallery help you.
if you have a miniscule amount artistic ability, you can successfully
paint woodgrain onto any surface, using the woodgrain rubber tool
and different colored paints - after the plywood is properly sealed.
After you are satisfied with your faux woodgrain project, it must be
coated with a few coats of SPAR VARNISH (not polyurethane) for UV protection.






many good woodgrain videos on the old YouTube
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DjZjlTuBD4M






.

 

[westr212]

Thank you, Johnny. Great advice, I've seen a painter do it so I'll be giving it a try on some of my scrap first and then the final piece.
Paul
PS want to post some pictures but I'm having trouble navigating the site, mainly signing in on the phone. I've got a Samsung galaxy s 5 so it should be easy, but I don't even find the log on matrix.
Any help on this would be great from those who had trouble.

 

[Johnny]

sorry - can't help you with your phone.

I still have the flip phone !!
I REFUSE to buy a stupid smart phone

 

[water bouy]

I have the same issue on my phone and finally gave up.

 

[westr212]

Transom board advise
We completed cutting out the board and tried to slide it in. The template was cut to size. We are fearful it will just be too big but if we push it all the way in to test it we will not get it back out to finish with old timers formula. Should we give ourselves 1/4 inch on each side and the bottom to ensure we don't wind up with the profIle being too tall or even 1/2 inch? It is already tight and we've got six inches further to lower it in. There is some tolerance on the sides but none on the top to bottom measurement. You can see the sides have an inch now with six inches more to go in. How do you get a transom board out if you had it ready to go in and decided you needed it back out for some modifications?View attachment 1

 

[Target]

could you make a cardboard outline and see if it fits?

 

[water bouy]

Maybe run a screw into each side for something to grab on to.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I used my belt sander to thin the far right and left ends a bit so I could slide my transom in and out.

 

[westr212]

We have a cardboard template. We are planning to use the cardboard template to locate the holes to be drilled for mounting the engine and the bolts to secure the transom to the support ribs. Sanding and tapering the two ends should help. The greatest resistance is at the two ends.

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I would put the transom in place and mark the location of the holes on the wood. I marked both sides of the transom and drilled half way from one side and finished the holes from the other side. Of the 18 holes only one needed a little adjustment.

 

[FishinLite]

It looks to me that your new transom is a bit too thick.

I would expect it to slide easily in and out before I applied any finish.
The finish will make it thicker yet.

My best suggestion is for you to get out your bench plane and remove about 1/8" of material.
A well tuned hand plane should accomplish that in about 20 minutes.

Good Luck :lol:

 

[westr212]

thanks fishinlite. It's only tight on the ends. I'll try the planer to thin it up and I'm going to take a 1/4 inch off the bottom where it will contact the support ribs so it will go in without being too tall.