14' Shallow V - New (to me) Boat

[Zum]

Doesn't seem that bad in the pictures,hard to tell in the sunlight and shade.
I have never used the product but I'm sure a second coat will cover any "flaws" you see.
Most of it is going to be under the water,hitting rocks and stuff later when you use it.I'm sure you will be happy in the end.

 

[ober51]

Doesn't seem that bad in the pictures,hard to tell in the sunlight and shade.
I have never used the product but I'm sure a second coat will cover any "flaws" you see.
Most of it is going to be under the water,hitting rocks and stuff later when you use it.I'm sure you will be happy in the end.

Thanks for your optimism, I need it at this point. I think IF I can get a second coat on, I'll be happier. But I'm just not sure if that's the case. The first coat works so well because it's on bare aluminum, but will the second coat even stick to a super click coat of itself?

 

[Stryker777]

I don't have the instructions for your paint, but from what I have read (while looking for the answer for you), most 100% solids epoxy based paints should be sanded and repainted with 48 hours. You may want to find out real soon.

 

[ober51]

I don't have the instructions for your paint, but from what I have read (while looking for the answer for you), most 100% solids epoxy based paints should be sanded and repainted with 48 hours. You may want to find out real soon.

Unless I am missing something, I don't think it mentions anything about applying a second coat. FASCO is open tomorrow early, but it is going to rain, meaning I am probably in trouble here. I have also researched and found the 48 hour thing, so that gives me until tomorrow at 2-3. I hope FASCO gives me better news.

EDIT: Though I did find this: Recoat window for two-part urethanes is about 6 to 16 hours (Bad). Beyond that, sand lightly (Good). Apply only in good, dry weather, as urethanes are moisture sensitive during application and curing. The coating will become dry overnight, hard in about 3 days, with maximum hardness in 7-10 days.

 

[ober51]

I don't have the instructions for your paint, but from what I have read (while looking for the answer for you), most 100% solids epoxy based paints should be sanded and repainted with 48 hours. You may want to find out real soon.

Called FASCO and they told me that I just need to scuff up the hardened epoxy with 60 or 80 grit, wipe with acetone, and apply the second coat. This makes me feel much better, as I was literally in panic mode.

 

[Brine]

Sorry Bud,

I just saw your post or I would have chimed in earlier. I put Steelflex on about a month ago. Definitely not the easiest product to work with. I think if you rough up the first coat good, the second coat wont have a problems sticking, although the second coat really should have been applied while the first coat was tacky. I say that after the fact now for someone else's benefit.

Don't feel too bad. I had the same anxiety about the appearance, but like someone said before, it's the bottom of the boat and the money spent was really all about function, not cosmetics anyway. Not to mention, the second coat will make it look better.

The boat is looking good!

 

[Stryker777]

Glad to hear it!

 

[ober51]

Thanks, guys. I will feel a lot better once that coat is on. I have plenty of the Steel Flex left, so it won't be a problem. Yeah, I hope my trials and tribulations will help someone after me.

Here is what I learned about applying Steel Flex:

1. Have a good workspace with no wind. The wind was fine and only blew twice, but once at the very beginning, putting debris on everything. I will now keep the stuff shielded by something, or put it in a cardboard box.
2. Although this is clearly stated in the directions and by others on here, mix the pigment in first. This will ensure a proper color and will not increase hardening at all.
3. Work fast, but efficiently. The stuff sets quickly, so mixing a small portion at a time will help out. The only draw back is having to mix the 2 parts more often, which for me, was the worst part.
4. Don't try and pour out the stuff, use something else, like a cup or a ladle (which I will be using for the next coat).
5. Be as precise as possible - measuring them equally is very important, try not to eyeball. Too much hardener, and it will set even more quickly.
6. Try not to backtrack. Put enough on your brush to get it on the boat (or other surface), apply it, and move on. By trying to be perfect, especially with the black, you will get brushstrokes.
7. Don't panic. The more important thing is to seal the boat - and you can always order more or put on another coat.

I hope this helps someone, given that I was freaking out, lol. Oh well. I just need to scuff up the surface again, and reapply. I set myself back, but at least I know it will be fine.

 

[ober51]

Sanded down the transom, which was finally dried/cured, and applied the first coat of spar urethane. Will continue to do that, with another coat either tonight or wait until tomorrow.

**I have found a great deal on a 16' Monark Jon, which may take this project in another direction...aka cut it short. I do, however, plan on touching up the Steel flex, finishing the trim on the paint, and giving a coat of paint to the inside floor. At that point, if I am able to get this boat, I will sell this one. Either way, I will be continuing this or another one.

I'll post some pics once the transom starts to look a bit better.

 

[ober51]

Here are a few pictures of the outside. I am waiting for the last coat of varnish to dry, then I will attach the transom.

I must have let the painter's tape sit too long, because when I took it off, off came some Interlux Brightside with it. So there will be some touch up, doh #-o

But I am fairly happy with how the outside turned out. When the second spot coating of Steel Flex dries, I will flip it over, and sand, prime, and paint the inside.

 

[Stryker777]

Looks much better Good job!

 

[Zum]

Looks nice,are you going to keep,try it?

 

[ober51]

Looks nice,are you going to keep,try it?

Thanks, Zum. It really depends on Sunday morning. I am going to look at a 16' Monark Jon for very cheap. If it is even halfway decent, I will likely buy it and sell this. I want the extra couple feet and the ability to mod the heck out of the Monark. Obviously, if that jon falls through, I will be keeping this for at least the time being.

 

[ober51]

Welp, it's done...for now. Haven't decided whether to keep or sell. That decision gets made for tomorrow. A lot of work went into just this, but my does she look a lot better, lol. Amazing what about 100 hours and 100 bucks in paint can do.

Hope it came out alright!

 

[Zum]

Looks like it came out nice to me.
Whatever you decide,you did good work.

 

[RBuffordTJ]

That is some great work.

 

[ober51]

That is some great work.

Thanks, I appreciate it.


So I bought the 16' Monark (see other thread in Boat Modifications main forum) and a 15 HP J/E. So this baby is up for sale. I am a bit sad since this was my first boat and came out pretty nice, but hey, it was a great learning experience. Should save some time next go around, which should be soon. Thanks all for the help and suggestions!

 

[Zum]

New show...Flip that boat.
Hope she sells at a good price for you so you can start a modding again.

 

[ober51]

New show...Flip that boat.
Hope she sells at a good price for you so you can start a modding again.

You and me both, Zum. I bought for 300, put 35 in oak, 100 in paint, 50 in etching primer, and 50 for odds and ends. Only asking 600, so I am barely making anything (nevermind labor, lol). I would like for it to go to someone who will treat it well and get good use out of it. Several have called already, but who knows. Just want to sell to get the new one moving, since my house isn't zone for a marina

 

[baptistpreach]

Great work! And great decision to buy a Monark!! We're a growing bunch! Anyhow, your boat turned out great, and I'd say you should ask higher (personally). You put a LOT of work in this boat, and I can't wait to see how the next one turns out.