1436 SeaNymph

[Cheeseball]

I think you're probably right about the vibrations. While I was cutting the vibrations from cutting were shaking the clamps loose. I had to reattach them every so often. I guess I'm going to have to find something a little more solid to clamp it to.

 

[Cheeseball]

Well I went out to HD to pick up some fresh sawzall blades to have on hand in case the last one I have breaks and I found this circular blade for cutting metal. It was actually cheaper than a pack of SA blades and I believe it will cut a much straighter line. I'll give it a go once the rain clears this weekend.

Also, I just about have the front deck framing done. I'll post pics when finished...but again work on that will have to wait until the rain stops.

 

[Cheeseball]

Well the rain finally broke for awhile and I got an hour of work in to finish the front deck frame. Next, on to framing the side rod box.

 

[azfish]

Very nice work so far on the boat cheeseball. Question, are u finding it esy to work with the aluminum for your framing and have you gone through hull with any of them? If so what did u use to attach the framing with, alum rivets and then sealed with 3m 5200?

Thanks

 

[Cheeseball]

Very nice work so far on the boat cheeseball. Question, are u finding it esy to work with the aluminum for your framing and have you gone through hull with any of them? If so what did u use to attach the framing with, alum rivets and then sealed with 3m 5200?

Thanks

Thanks for the compliment, I've really started enjoying this project now that the paint stripping is done.

This is the first time I've worked with aluminum angle and yes, I find it very easy to work with. Pop rivets work great and are easy to use. Just make sure you spend the extra $ for a rivet gun with a swiveling head. I didn't do any bracing across the hull and eliminated the need to drill the hull. I've read in some other threads on this site and have read elsewhere that small aluminum boats like this one are designed to flex and twist a little and that excessive framing can cause strain and fatigue to the hull. I'm putting a 15hp on the back of this boat so I figure I want to keep fatigue to a minimum and let the hull flex. I think Hydrilla has an even better design than mine because his completely "floats" on the braces of his boats. Here's his thread: https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=10430&start=100

I also fish the upper Potomac which is shallow and rocky so I wanted to keep the boat light as possible. I've avoided drilling holes in the hull and even patched a few holes with marine epoxy. These are photos of the inside of the boat where the epoxy has not been sanded down the other sanded and painted side you cannot tell where the holes are.

If you are going to just put a trolling motor on the back of your boat and fish lakes and resevoirs I think you can frame away and not worry about hull flex. But if your going to put a large motor on the back I think it is something to consider. Riveting through the hull and sealing with 3M should be fine as well. I just wouldn't do it below the waterline.

 

[Ranchero50]

Thought that boat looked familiar...

For the sawzall, get a 10-12" 18 tooth or finer blade, install it upside down and cut at a very flat angle. With the sawzall upside down it can cut at a much flatter angle. Ideally you want 2-3 teeth in the cut or it'll buck and jump and make you miserable. You can use some WD-40 as cutting fluid, it works great for aluminum.

With the circular saw set the blade depth to around 1/4" and clamp a guide board for the correct offset from the blade so you don't have to hover over the blade (cut aluminum is hot). Wear ear plugs, it's really loud. Put the aluminum on a sacrificial board (keeps everything from chattering and is much safer), I use old pallets.

If you want some help with it, let me know.

Jamie