14ft creastliner v hull skiff

[Johnny]

existing paint - - - - sand it, wire brush it, poke it, pull it, scratch it,
until you are confident that it is sticking good . . . . then proceed with your primer.
Like Rich said - if it ain't peeling, paint it.

 

[mrdrh99]

Starting to frame up everything. It's gonna be drop in, but it'll never go anywhere.

 

[mrdrh99]

So...60° today... Got the boat off the trailer, while prepping for paint, I looked at the trailer. It's structurally sound, Kudu looks rough.... Like an old boat trailer. So, figured since I have the boat off, I should go ahead and deal with the trailer. Wire wheeled off the cracking paint and some rush. Sprayed with krylon rust primer, and will use krylon black spray paint. Nothing fancy, just cleaning it up.

 

[mrdrh99]

Primer is drying, I'll put pics of the printer and finished paint later today

 

[richg99]

Lots of work. but it will be worth it.

You are fortunate that you can work with the boat off of it.

Most of my similar projects required doing most of the work while lying on your back under the boat and trailer. Then, a trip to the shoreline, where I'd drop the boat in and try to finish the job in an hour or so.

Keep us posted. richg99

 

[mrdrh99]

OK... Here it is... Primer:


And then a coat of flat black:



I'll probably do a second coat on the main areas that you can see when the boat is on there. This was mainly asthetic only, it was in good shape. Wire wheel showed me that at one point it was yellow!?!? But it was in good shape.... Just figured why not when I already had the boat off.

 

[richg99]

I like the black. Easy to touch up.
richg99

 

[mrdrh99]

Exactly! I'm thinking about using some rubber undercoating on the fenders, top and bottom. Replacing the lights with some standard submersible ones, and cleaning up the wiring. Other thing on my mind... If I can do it on the cheap, is replacing the rollers with carpeted bunks, but I'm not really wanting to invest in any metal/aluminum to do it. If I can use what's there and add bunks on it I think I will.

 

[richg99]

Replacing the lights with some standard submersible ones

You might consider replacing them with LED lights. Run a separate white ground wire from each light to the front and you can forget all of the old, normal, issues with incandescent bulbs.

I think Amazon or WalMart has some inexpensive ones.

richg99

 

[mrdrh99]

Thanks Rich, hadn't thought about that.... I'll look into it!

 

[mrdrh99]

I've beat the boat to death with a wire wheel. Doing a final once over with 180 grit, then hitting the bottom with Rust-Oleum rattle can primer today

 

[mrdrh99]

OK.... Boat bottom is almost ready for primer. I almost thought I was going to get away with no transom work..... [-X





But, think I got lucky. Under that piece of wood, the aluminum was in good shape. And it's all aluminum on the inside of the hull.



So, I'm going to cut those rivets flush, JB weld or 5200 over them. Prime, paint. And put a larger piece of wood on the transom. In case someone ever puts a larger ob on here.

 

[Johnny]

good job so far !

personally, I would put the rivets in from the outside (if you can)
and have the tail on the inside of the boat.
then, cut it off and hammer flat prior to sealing.

 

[mrdrh99]

OK, didn't go with 2x primer, I decided on Rust-Oleum auto primer, since it specifically states to use with the paint I plan to use



So, this is a light coating on the bottom, 2 cans of primer. Weather was a little cool today, 51° for a high, so I'm letting it dry overnight. Looked pretty good to me.



Will begin roll and tip with Rust-Oleum smoke gray tomorrow. Thinking 2 coats, and then letting it cure for a good week before flipping it back over.

 

[mrdrh99]

1st coat of paint. Rust-Oleum enamel, smoke gray. First time doing a roll and tip, looks good to me. Will sand with a320 grit, wash, dry, and do a second coat in a couple of days. Then it'll sit a week or so while I do my transom work and wire wheel then sand the top.

 

[richg99]

Purty!


richg99

 

[mrdrh99]

So... I want to sand and lay one more coat. At this point, do I wash again or do tack cloth?

 

[Johnny]

good job so far !!
almost all solvent based paints should be at least scuffed up prior to additional coats.
some oil based paints say to recoat within one hour or after that, wait 24 - 48 hours between coats.
and again, ambient temperatures above 65-70* is the key to a successful finish.
no need to wash again unless it is dirty. tack cloth is always a good idea.
also, after scuffing/sanding, it is a good idea to vacuum all the nooks and crannies.
what do the instructions on the can of paint that you are using say ?


and by "tack cloth", I mean the cloth that has been treated and kept in an air-tight jar.
if you don't have one, google up "how to make a tack cloth"






.

 

[mrdrh99]

Coat 2 done on the bottom. Weather today, 74°, 36% humidity, tomorrow 71° with humidity about the same. Then cooler weather starts to move back in, with snow on Friday. Hopefully, it'll cure enough over the next couple days to flip back over on the trailer so that 3 inches of snow isn't sitting on it for days!

 

[mrdrh99]

Hey guys! Over a month since anything had been done due to a new job (state job... Yay), crappy weather up here in Omaha, and well, life in general. But we're rolling today! Got the top half of the boat sanded and ready for paint. Biggest thing is I got 2 sheets of plywood. Got one cut and fitted for the floor, and it's glorious and huge! I attached some 2x2 stringers under that fit snuggly beside the ribs. I used a good quality valspar exterior paint that I had sitting around, 3 good coats on the bottom. Once dried I flipped it over and applied the first coat of this Rust-Oleum restore. Just a reminder that I got the 3 gallon bucket for $10! So I figured I'd it doesn't work I'm not out a huge sum of $. First coat is drying and looks good. If I get a couple years out of it I'm happy. $10 for a non skid?! Yep!





Should be finishing up the deck tomorrow. Electronics next week