16' Monark Mod V Jon - The end of the Road - FOR SALE

[alanbird_87]

Very very nice boat!!! I also have a 1972 Monark 15ft V-hull. Check it out, just got it so hope to start modding. Its on pg 13 of the modifications section.

 

[ober51]

Very very nice boat!!! I also have a 1972 Monark 15ft V-hull. Check it out, just got it so hope to start modding. Its on pg 13 of the modifications section.

Thanks and I just saw your boat, thats a tank!

 

[ober51]

Just starting to touch up paint on the boat - it makes a huge difference. I will also have to paint the interior more than I thought, not a big deal, just will take some time over the next few weekends.

 

[ober51]

Anyone have pictures of their trolling motor plug set up? Rather than going under the front casting deck to connect and disconnect the leads I bought a plug to wire up. I know how to wire up the plug, but where do you have your plug? I am thinking above my right hatch?

 

[Henry Hefner]

Anyone have pictures of their trolling motor plug set up? Rather than going under the front casting deck to connect and disconnect the leads I bought a plug to wire up. I know how to wire up the plug, but where do you have your plug? I am thinking above my right hatch?

I wanted mine close to the motor, so I put it next to my glove box:

 

[ober51]

Thanks, Hef. Looks good. I am trying to see where I can put the thing - do you have an inline fuse?

I know it calls for one but I've never used one.

 

[Henry Hefner]

Thanks, Hef. Looks good. I am trying to see where I can put the thing - do you have an inline fuse?

I know it calls for one but I've never used one.

Yes, all my wiring is fused. Fuses are very important. Have you ever seen someone hook up jumper cables wrong? Or accidentally arc between battery poles? These batteries store a huge amount of power. If a short occurred (such as a sharp object cutting through your wires) your unfused wiring could suddenly become hot enough to melt off all insulation and catch any flammables on fire. Now, if these wires are already fused next to the battery, then you do not need to fuse it again close to the motor.

 

[ober51]

Thanks, Hef. Looks good. I am trying to see where I can put the thing - do you have an inline fuse?

I know it calls for one but I've never used one.

Yes, all my wiring is fused. Fuses are very important. Have you ever seen someone hook up jumper cables wrong? Or accidentally arc between battery poles? These batteries store a huge amount of power. If a short occurred (such as a sharp object cutting through your wires) your unfused wiring could suddenly become hot enough to melt off all insulation and catch any flammables on fire. Now, if these wires are already fused next to the battery, then you do not need to fuse it again close to the motor.

Sounds good - going to have to pick up a 40 amp.

Also just sold my trailer that was too short for the boat. So I am looking for one that fits a 16'er. Proving to be harder and more expensive than I thought, unless I drive 2 hours.

 

[kriegersa]

Hey man i just got finished reading all 21 pages its now...1:15 am and i got a 8am class... :shock: :shock: ](*,) lol, but just wanted to let you know that I will probably be coping you on your design. approx. how much did it cost you? and how long did it take you to fix up the whole thing?

 

[ober51]

Hey man i just got finished reading all 21 pages its now...1:15 am and i got a 8am class... :shock: :shock: ](*,) lol, but just wanted to let you know that I will probably be coping you on your design. approx. how much did it cost you? and how long did it take you to fix up the whole thing?

Ha - it's addicting, that's for sure.

I don't have much time now before work, so I will think about it and get back to you later. Short answer, not that much for materials. Long answer, I am still not done :lol:

 

[Troutman3000]

Just went over to Advanced Auto and bought some Tal-Strip, heard good things about it. I want to strip the bottom portion of the hull to apply steel flex to a completely bare surface. As for the rest of the hull, elbow grease should do it - just going to scuff it up well, prime and paint.

Wire wheel is the best for steel flex, it really adheres well to the bare really roughed up alluminum.

 

[ober51]

Just went over to Advanced Auto and bought some Tal-Strip, heard good things about it. I want to strip the bottom portion of the hull to apply steel flex to a completely bare surface. As for the rest of the hull, elbow grease should do it - just going to scuff it up well, prime and paint.

Wire wheel is the best for steel flex, it really adheres well to the bare really roughed up alluminum.

Yeah this is what I had done in the past and it's holding up well.

I hope I never have to take off that Steel Flex, ha. I'd rather just sand and re-apply, stuff is tough.

 

[ober51]

I would have to imagine it depends on what you factor in for the cost.

The strong ties, wood, screws, gasket material, carpet, bilge, hoses, 5200, paint, steel flex, materials for paint, etc really didn't cost me more than $400-500? I wish I kept receipts, but I didn't. Now, if you add in 25 hp ($250 off eBay), bow trolling motor (Brand new $150 craigslist), trailer ($400, coming soon), I would guess that all in I have 1300-1500 in cost? The boat itself was $200, I also got with that a 15hp Johnny that was seized that I made about 50 bucks off of. The costs add up, but craigslist is your friend, ebay you can occasionally get good deals (that motor runs like a top and was very cheap).

 

[ober51]

After Perchin graciously picked up a console and shipped it my way, I have started to take off the dissimilar metals and hardware and the stickers. I will JB weld where needed, use some self etching primer, and paint. I haven't taken off those vintage switches yet, I might test them, but more likely will remove and insert my own switch panel (which means the wiring I did last summer will have to be redone, lol, oh well at least I know what I am doing this time around.) I will have to fab the bottom half of the console since it doesn't have a base, but I have the ply and carpet already.

I have the metal and hardware off, stickers removed, and it is awaiting a sanding and primer. I did sand a bit of the pitted area, seems like it will clean it up fine. Then I will JB weld that area, should turn out well for what I need. BTW, that heat gun for $9.99 from Harbor Frieght is a no brainer, even if it only lasts me a year, it was more than worth it.

 

[ober51]

Continued a little work on the console, taking out the wood backing, sanding off the rough edges of the holes, drilling out the rivets, etc. I took care to keep the wood in one piece, leaving a perfect template and an easy replacement in the near future. I will trace, cut, seal and use stainless hardware to bolt back underneath. I started to sand before I removed the glue residue, which was stupid. I will have to see if I can use some goo-gone or whatever. Maybe some wd40?

Here are just a few pics.

Also, does anyone want the old tracker switches? Dunno if they work at all, so I won't charge anything but shipping. Might be good for someone who is looking to totally restore a tracker with original hardware?

 

[perchin]

Right on man........ Glad to see it go to good use :wink:

 

[ober51]

Right on man........ Glad to see it go to good use :wink:

Definitely, thanks to you.

I used the old wood to make a new template, but my small Black and Decker Handisaw battery died on my before I could finish the hole for the steering. And I can't find the battery charger. Of course, I wouldn't have had to use that dinky saw if my brother didn't take the good jig saw to college to make a bar for this fraternity, ha....and he took the oribital sander. So I am waiting on him to finish up school and bring that stuff home. I will then get some SS hardware (bolts, nuts, washers, etc.), seal the wood, and finish it off. Then I can build the bottom, slow but steady wins the race. I will continue to to use the stick steer until I get the entire thing installed, even the teleflex steering and whatnot, since I don't want to miss any fishing this season like I did in the last one.

ETA: Goo Gone works well for glue removal, but WD40 worked better in my opinion.

 

[ober51]

I filled in the top holes and a couple holes on the front with JB Weld, sanded down, and primed with self etching primer. I had never sanded JB Weld, and I was really impressed. It was very easy to do after it cured - you can't even tell there were holes. This picture was the first coat of primer, I have since added a second and it looks even better. I left some holes on the front, since I will likely place a switch panel there anyway. Four of the holes are for the wood backing, as well; the top holes will be reused for my fish finder at some point, so there was no need to close those off. The one round hole will house a accessory plug.

Slowly but surely it is coming along. Looks a lot better already, I think.

 

[perchin]

Looking good man... a little elbow grease goes a long ways when it comes to mod's on tin.

 

[perchin]

Any updates?
You've probably been out fishing too much to be posting :LOL2: