very very VERY nice looking boat. to confirm, is it 12 or 14 feet? also, is there any pics of the home made transom plate you made? i would like to make one for a 15hp Johnson, need 5" higher due to the long shaft that is on there. its either that or $75 for the one you posted OR $75 for drive shaft and then cut things inside to make it work which i am not too keen on. id rather just raise the transom up a bit and keep the long shaft for obvious reasons.
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1950 Model R Alumacraft 12" v hull resto + deck
- Thread starter Busbey
- Start date
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sanded on the boat for a couple hours yesterday. got the whole upper half of the outside and both inside and out of stern. as i started on the inside upper half, i ran out of sanding disks for the angle grinder. got to get a few this week. also, i am not too sure how to get in the corners. which attachment do i need? should i take all the paint off the bottom or just sand it with 80 grit and spray it???
jigngrub
Well-known member
CitruStrip is a great paint stripper, it's made from oranges and is nonflammable and has no noxious fumes so you can use it indoors if you want. You can buy it at Wally World or Home Depot. It'll save you hours of sanding and grinding and will take care of those corners too.
Just brush it on and let it set for a day and come back the next day and scrape the goo off.
Just brush it on and let it set for a day and come back the next day and scrape the goo off.
Sgt. Stiglitz
Well-known member
I stuck a 15 HP Evinrude on mine...............redid the transom and used my jack plate I made.
The boat is listed as a 14 footer but it measures 13'6"
I removed the six bolts holding the powerhead on, one at a time and greased them, then reinstalled them. They came out easy. The impeller was just changed out. You guys had me scared about those bolts, I was worried what I was going to do if I snapped one off :-? It's a clean little motor. I think most of the scuffs on the cover are from being tossed in a trunk or the bed of a truck. If the weather is nice, I'll take it to the lake and see how it does.......I connected the lights and I have a switch pannel coming. Might stick a waterproof stereo in the space under the rear seat. Bet this 15HP beats daylights out of the little 8 HP Nissan I had on it before #-o
Here is a little video of it running at idle.
https://s454.photobucket.com/albums/qq263/Sapo60/?action=view¤t=15HPEvinrude89.mp4
The boat is listed as a 14 footer but it measures 13'6"
I removed the six bolts holding the powerhead on, one at a time and greased them, then reinstalled them. They came out easy. The impeller was just changed out. You guys had me scared about those bolts, I was worried what I was going to do if I snapped one off :-? It's a clean little motor. I think most of the scuffs on the cover are from being tossed in a trunk or the bed of a truck. If the weather is nice, I'll take it to the lake and see how it does.......I connected the lights and I have a switch pannel coming. Might stick a waterproof stereo in the space under the rear seat. Bet this 15HP beats daylights out of the little 8 HP Nissan I had on it before #-o
Here is a little video of it running at idle.
https://s454.photobucket.com/albums/qq263/Sapo60/?action=view¤t=15HPEvinrude89.mp4
question... in the pic below, you can see how i have a LOT of work left to do to get the paint off down to bare metal. what would happen if i said screw it, left that paint on there and painted over everything? i would still need to scuff up the paint with 80grit correct? this would save me SO MUCH time.
problem is, i have a 1 year old little girl and i have 0 time to work on the boat. i have a garage to start the deck, maybe an hour each night here and there. but when it comes to pulling the boat out in the driveway, using the angle grinder to get all this paint off and making a mess.... while this whole time, trying to watch her... you can see i am limited. i can only work on this project freely on Sunday mornings. and i want to get started on everything. but the sanding is killing me right now cause i have no time.
so, other than me screwing up the paint job or something, what happens if i paint it like it sits now? would it look horrible? would you see lines where the aluminum meet the 30 year old paint?
please be honest guys. i am thinking a blue and grey two-tone paint job on this with the inside being a textured white of sort from the seats up (only where deck will not cover.
problem is, i have a 1 year old little girl and i have 0 time to work on the boat. i have a garage to start the deck, maybe an hour each night here and there. but when it comes to pulling the boat out in the driveway, using the angle grinder to get all this paint off and making a mess.... while this whole time, trying to watch her... you can see i am limited. i can only work on this project freely on Sunday mornings. and i want to get started on everything. but the sanding is killing me right now cause i have no time.
so, other than me screwing up the paint job or something, what happens if i paint it like it sits now? would it look horrible? would you see lines where the aluminum meet the 30 year old paint?
please be honest guys. i am thinking a blue and grey two-tone paint job on this with the inside being a textured white of sort from the seats up (only where deck will not cover.
as much trouble as you are having getting the old paint off, i think painting over it would be fine, if you do make sure you wash it to clean off all the chemicals you have applied so it doesn't mess with the new paint
thanks for the response.. you dont think i will see any lines from where the bare metal meets the paint? the line being the thinckness. know what i mean?
i am hoping that the paint will smooth out that fine link since i will have several coats.. primer, paint, clear, whatever whatever.
with that said.. on this boat, what should i use and how many coats? i want to keep it as cheap as possible but still look good for 5 years or so.
also, i plan on using a spray gun from Harbor Freight and my air compressor in the back yard.
i am hoping that the paint will smooth out that fine link since i will have several coats.. primer, paint, clear, whatever whatever.
with that said.. on this boat, what should i use and how many coats? i want to keep it as cheap as possible but still look good for 5 years or so.
also, i plan on using a spray gun from Harbor Freight and my air compressor in the back yard.
you shouldn't get any lines from painting over, when you prime look to see if you have a high spot at the old paint, if so go back and smooth that area out, and a lot of folks have been using rustoluem and getting good results
rustoluem huh? any specific line? not latex i know but i am sure there are hundreds of different lines under the name.
again, i plan on using a spray gun to be sure it comes out smooth unless a roller is a better option. i just want that mirrot finish the easiest way since i am no painting pro.
again, i plan on using a spray gun to be sure it comes out smooth unless a roller is a better option. i just want that mirrot finish the easiest way since i am no painting pro.
Ranchero50
Well-known member
Aircraft stripper, saran wrap, 14x14" squares at a time. Plastic scraper, wire brush scotchbrite pads and two buckets of water, one to clean the scrubber, the other to clean the parts of you that start burning. Safety glasses, rubber gloves and no Keystone Light are mandatory too.
Heavy dose of stripper, cover it with saran wrap and keep it in the shade. You spread over too much too thin too quickly on too hot of a day.
Jamie
Heavy dose of stripper, cover it with saran wrap and keep it in the shade. You spread over too much too thin too quickly on too hot of a day.
Jamie
hey thanks for the tips.. yeah i went over the whole boat at once. i will use what i have to take care of the rest if it works out in 14x14 squares.
otherwise i am just going to get a sander to it and be done! im so ready to get this project started.
otherwise i am just going to get a sander to it and be done! im so ready to get this project started.
I wouldn't paint over it. Just get a grinder and buy one of those thick wire wheels that are for grinders . I'm sure it will come right off. I used one on mine and it was SUPER fast. Check out my build in my signature. Our boats are pretty similar. Good luck keep it coming!
Jonboat Jerry
Well-known member
+2 on the wire wheel, you can even get one for your drill that works well.
Here is the marine Rustoleum that I used on my build available from Lowes. Just use a roller for smooth surfaces/foam
Here is the link to my build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=20643
Here is the marine Rustoleum that I used on my build available from Lowes. Just use a roller for smooth surfaces/foam
Here is the link to my build
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=20643
Ranchero50
Well-known member
I use a 4" foam cabinet roller and a cheap throw away chip brush for cracks and crevises. I also wear disposable latex gloves so if I'm doing quick recoats I'll grab the roller and pull the glove off my hand over the roller. Twist the cuff off anf it'll keep the roller from drying out for a couple days. I painted my '71 F250 with Rustoleum industrial and it turns out very well for the little effort. The cabinet roller with no nap will allow the paint to go one smooth and flow out . The only trick is use thin coats.
Jamie
Jamie
Jonboat Jerry
Well-known member
As Jamie mentioned, 4" roller for most of it on the outside and a smaller diameter roller for the inside. Here is a pix of the inside.Busbey said:
https://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg261/JerrySweet/Da%20Boat/DSC00140.jpg
and a link to my build.
https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=20643
ok, ended up getting 98% of all old paint off. if i missed a tiny spot on a corner somewhere, oh well. also didnt do the bottom of boat about 2ft from center but roughed it up for paint to stick.
yesterday got 1 coats of self etching primer on, letting it sit for a few days and will start rolling on some paint as suggested. have to get roller and then i am going to work. hopefully this weekend i can flip it over and start the inside. here is progress.
yesterday got 1 coats of self etching primer on, letting it sit for a few days and will start rolling on some paint as suggested. have to get roller and then i am going to work. hopefully this weekend i can flip it over and start the inside. here is progress.
