1962 18hp Evinrude- no spark

[GarageBeers]

I checked with a multimeter and I have continuity from the primary and secondary windings off the coil all the way to the center electrode of the spark plug, measures about 4.5ohms, not too bad, however it still wont produce spark! Motor wont turn over. I made it pitch black in the garage and looked for any spark but cant see it

I used the RichardsOutboards timing tool and set my top and bottom points to .020

Are the points supposed to be closed until its time to open to .020?

 

[Pappy]

First off. When you do get the engine running keep in mind that is still a 24:1 engine, not 50:1.
How were you checking spark? With a plug laying on the block?
Chances are the old coils are cracked, leaking to ground and will need to be replaced. Keep the points. Replace the condensers with new as well. When replacing parts always get OEM replacements. Too many fit issues with off brand parts. Coil spacing is critical so make sure they go in flush with the mount posts.
Lightly dress the points surfaces with super fine sandpaper and clean completely. when adjusting make sure they are at .020 and the points arm does not move to allow the feeler gauge in for the adjustment check.

 

[GarageBeers]

First off. When you do get the engine running keep in mind that is still a 24:1 engine, not 50:1.
How were you checking spark? With a plug laying on the block?
Chances are the old coils are cracked, leaking to ground and will need to be replaced. Keep the points. Replace the condensers with new as well. When replacing parts always get OEM replacements. Too many fit issues with off brand parts. Coil spacing is critical so make sure they go in flush with the mount posts.
Lightly dress the points surfaces with super fine sandpaper and clean completely. when adjusting make sure they are at .020 and the points arm does not move to allow the feeler gauge in for the adjustment check.

Copy on 24:1 thank you

I made sure the plugs were grounded to the block when i checked spark

Are the points supposed to be open or closed until its time to open to .020?

Can i have bad coils even if they show good continuity?

 

[LaqueRatt]

I'm no expert, but brought a Fastwin back from the dead last year. Had trouble telling if had spark or not until I bought a cheap spark tester. They're only about 10 bucks. I suggest you get yourself one. I had one coil that stopped firing once the motor warmed up and also had a bad connection where the plug wire came out of one of the coils. Your points will remain closed until the rub bar gets to the high point of the cam, then they'll gradually open up to .020 and close again after it come downs off that lobe. Hope this helps.

 

[Pappy]

On a 60 year old engine you can have anything! USE OEM PARTS!
Pull the flywheel. Pull the coils and coil wires. With 62 year old coils I would replace them no questions asked.
ALWAYS replace the condensers! Keep your points. The above comment is correct. Points are closed until the wear block runs up on the cam lobe then it should gradually open the points to a .020 setting. Corroded plug wire connectors can degrade spark as well. I always replace when I see this. You have to remember that electricity runs on the outside surface of a conductor only. Corrosion impedes this. Everything has to be clean clean clean!
You probably have a stop switch already wired in on this engine. Visually check these wires to see if the insulation has been worn through and possibly grounding out the ignition. Check the switch with an ohmeter.
You will need an OEM carb kit. Do the job right not twice.
You will need a new water pump probably but an impeller at the very least.
You will probably need a shift rod O-Ring to get the gearcase sealed back up. With this you will need new "Spagetti" seal.
If you do this job completely and with good work practices and good work ethic you will have a super reliable engine that you can enjoy and pass down to your kids.

 

[GarageBeers]

On a 60 year old engine you can have anything! USE OEM PARTS!
Pull the flywheel. Pull the coils and coil wires. With 62 year old coils I would replace them no questions asked.
ALWAYS replace the condensers! Keep your points. The above comment is correct. Points are closed until the wear block runs up on the cam lobe then it should gradually open the points to a .020 setting. Corroded plug wire connectors can degrade spark as well. I always replace when I see this. You have to remember that electricity runs on the outside surface of a conductor only. Corrosion impedes this. Everything has to be clean clean clean!
You probably have a stop switch already wired in on this engine. Visually check these wires to see if the insulation has been worn through and possibly grounding out the ignition. Check the switch with an ohmeter.
You will need an OEM carb kit. Do the job right not twice.
You will need a new water pump probably but an impeller at the very least.
You will probably need a shift rod O-Ring to get the gearcase sealed back up. With this you will need new "Spagetti" seal.
If you do this job completely and with good work practices and good work ethic you will have a super reliable engine that you can enjoy and pass down to your kids.

Freaking gold right here man. Insane. Thanks so much

 

[GarageBeers]

I'm no expert, but brought a Fastwin back from the dead last year. Had trouble telling if had spark or not until I bought a cheap spark tester. They're only about 10 bucks. I suggest you get yourself one. I had one coil that stopped firing once the motor warmed up and also had a bad connection where the plug wire came out of one of the coils. Your points will remain closed until the rub bar gets to the high point of the cam, then they'll gradually open up to .020 and close again after it come downs off that lobe. Hope this helps.

Thank you so much. Very helpful

 

[gtodd]

Years ago, my first boat came with a 1966 Evinrude 9.5hp Sportwin that had hard start issues. I removed the flywheel and replaced anything electrical including sparkplug wires and kill switch. For 15 years until I sold it, started first pull every time regardless of conditions.

 

[Revenge22]

I always ditch the points and put transistor modules in them. night and day difference, and they cannot go out of adjustment. many of the fastwins and skitwins i have barely need any choke stone cold, and can idle down to 500 rpm or less without stalling. cant tell the difference between the original ATOM chips (red or green makes no difference) and some aftermarket ones. just don't use the purple OEM coils if you end up using the nova2's or chinese copies. use the CDI replacement ones. also make sure the cam roller is adjusted properly. you can tell it's not when you pull the choke and it revvs up high before shutting itself down. cheers.

 

[moedelawn]

I've had the Atom on my 25 for 35 years. Doesn't get ran much but it always has spark.

 

[Revenge22]

yes! big fan. again really strange but the green ones , even though they say they are for briggs motors, have identical waveforms.

 

[silver_bay]

....

I used the RichardsOutboards timing tool and set my top and bottom points to .020

Are the points supposed to be closed until its time to open to .020?

The .020 measurement is an approximation to use if you don't have a timing tool. With the timing tool, the points should open (turn off a continuity light attached to the points) when the pointer crosses the marking on the magneto plate.