18hp Johnson 1963 white smoke and full choke

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Pappy said:
Other than that the engine sounds strong and with adjustments I think you will have a nice engine!

I've been looping that video over and over just listening to it, loving the sound. Don't know why other than it just sounds sweet to my ears. I now understand why people constantly rev their motorcycles.

Hopefully I can get it idling nicer lower. That was it at full idle speed, if I let go of the tiller at all it would twist back a touch and start sputtering constantly and wind down to a nothing and stop. When I first got the motor it idled a lot lower and only backfired a little here and there.
 
I also have an old Ted Williams Sears 7.5hp motor. I hear those were pieces of crap when they were brand new :) It came with my boat, pretty much as a "I can't even give away this motor, so here you go" inclusion with the purchase of the boat. It's always ran horrible, no low idle at all, full tilt throttle or nothing. Kinda excited to turn my new tools towards this motor now too to see if I can do anything with it.
 
CedarRiverScooter said:
Congrats on getting it started again.

Thank you!

CedarRiverScooter said:
The muck in the barrel is normal. The nostril you show in picture is not the main exhaust only for pressure relief at idle.

Check that the carb is wide open when stator plate is at the rotation stop. Mine wasn't. Made a huge difference in idle when I fixed that.

The thermostat is easy to pull out. It will be obvious if it is stuck open. If it is closed, you can check that it opens in a hot pan on the stove.

Good luck

Looks like it's wide open when not choked. I read somewhere that the sputtering/backfiring at idle is because it's running too lean, and that I need to close the idle needle a little, but in practice I was noticing the opposite. If I closed the needle anymore than I had it the motor sputtered worse and I couldn't keep it running. When I opened it more (maxing my dial where I currently have it) it stayed running with regular sputters/backfires. I need to take the little dial off again to twist the needle out a little more to give the dial a little more range.
 
Your idle needle controls the fuel/air emulsion. You are correct in how it works. In will close of the emulsion and lean the engine and out will richen it.
When in the water and doing your final adjustments you will want to lean the needle to the point the engine spits lean and then back the needle out 1/8-1/4 turn for best idle. Make your adjustments slowly and listen to the engine. As you are finding out, it will tell you what it wants.
High speed needle should start a bit on the rich side and then at WOT you lean it to the highest RPM and keep going until you hear the engine slow a bit. Bring the needle back out to the highest RPM and richen another 1/8 turn or so.
There should be an idle throttle stop that is adjustable on that engine down at the gear on the port side under the pan. You can use it to set minimum idle RPM
 
Finally had time to mess with the idle needle in the garage, but not enough time to take her out to the lake until the weekend.

Much nicer, low idle, no backfiring, no sputtering out. Started on the second pull cold. First pull after that, no choke. Running better than when I got her (was a touch of backfiring when I bought it).

Propped the bucket up a little higher and let the hose run enough to counter the loss exiting the bucket. Definitely seeing a strong stream and a lot less steam. But is that enough water coming out the back port?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/qdpdjndy8hdsro4/Video%20Oct%2017%2C%207%2017%2057%20PM.mov?dl=0

Won’t know if I get more till I can open her up on the lake, and if the white steam is completely gone now. Possible that I was getting it while on the lake before because of the choke needing to be out all the time to keep her running (overheating resulting in the extra steam?).
 
Pappy will most likely chime in but it sounds pretty good for running in a barrel. You seem pretty intent on getting the idle "lower" you will have to finally adjust it when you have it in the water due to pressure. I would say just by ear you may wind up having to go a shade higher with your idle, but you won't know that to you actually water test it. I think with pressure and when you put it in gear you will find it may be a bit low even with tweaking your air/fuel setting.

Those motors would idle pretty good for a two cycle when they were properly tuned.
 
Choke being out in order to run has zero to do with an overheat.
Looked at the video. A previous owner has added an overboard indicator hose to the engine. From the looks of it the normal water exit has a bit of a reduction of flow but the overboard indicator stream is nice and strong.
Steam.....remember that in cooler water you will always have steam. Even down here in warm water I get it after an on-plane run. Super hot exhaust gases and inner exhaust surfaces that the cooling water is flowing across to remove heat from the parts. That creates steam!

The engine sounds super! Well done and no doubt a good learning experience! Why not add your location to your signature so we can see where you are boating?
If you like the old engines there are antique outboard (vintage too) groups that hold regular events all across the country. Engines are usually for sale at them all the time.
 
Pappy said:
Choke being out in order to run has zero to do with an overheat.
Looked at the video. A previous owner has added an overboard indicator hose to the engine. From the looks of it the normal water exit has a bit of a reduction of flow but the overboard indicator stream is nice and strong.
Steam.....remember that in cooler water you will always have steam. Even down here in warm water I get it after an on-plane run. Super hot exhaust gases and inner exhaust surfaces that the cooling water is flowing across to remove heat from the parts. That creates steam!

The engine sounds super! Well done and no doubt a good learning experience! Why not add your location to your signature so we can see where you are boating?
If you like the old engines there are antique outboard (vintage too) groups that hold regular events all across the country. Engines are usually for sale at them all the time.

I’ll update my profile... I’m in Grand Rapids, MI.

Interesting... so that pee stream is not original to the motor?

Thank you all for your advice! I’ve learned a ton. This was a fun project and super satisfying to have it running so strong now. Will get to take it out to a lake tomorrow morning to do some fishing and finally adjust the high speed needle.
 
Even after all these years, I am still struck by the generosity and good-will of the members (especially Pappy) to folks who find us and post their difficulties. In this case, the OP went to the trouble of documenting his labors, showing results, and maintained the communication to-and-fro which will allow others who come across the thread to learn and repair the old motors. Thank you, as well, sir.

My salute to goodness of spirit and excellence of advice of those in this thread, and in so many others. You folks make the world a better place.

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
 

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