Putting this motor back together and i took pictures before taking each part off the motor and somehow dont have the coil pics so i looked online at the schematic and it shows me needing 3 flat washers for each coil but does not show me needing any of the star lock washers. In the pic is my bottom coil with the J strap and when i removed it there was only whats shown in the pic and the motor started and ran just fine. I would like to know what goes where and in what order( example- coil then washer, lock washer and bolt, or?)when re-mounting the coil because the schematic does me no good because of what i have and whats shown online does not match up...
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jasper60103
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I no longer have my ‘81 25hp Johnson so I can’t verify the order of the washers. The important thing is having a good ground connection to coil ground tab, which you could check with an ohmmeter. But IMO, the fact that it’s running is a good indication.Riverbean said:
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Take a look through some other years. Somewhere in there you should find a few years where there were insulating washers. Install them that way and the coils will not melt with an overheat. You will need the 1/4" external star washers. I buy them by the 100 at McMaster Carr.
You did check and replace the rubber deflectors I hope......
Also noticed what you DIDN"T say....which is what sealer did you use?
You did check and replace the rubber deflectors I hope......
Also noticed what you DIDN"T say....which is what sealer did you use?
i do know this motor did not have the insulating washers you speak of and that makes sense so i will get some.. So the insulator first, then the coil, ground, star washer and bolt? And same order on bottom bolt but use the metal washer that was on it and not a star washer? Deflectors and sealer? What would those and sealer have to do with the coils? Now im confused hahaPappy said:
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They have nothing to do with the coils. Am "pinning" you down on how this job is going and what you have used to make sure it is continuing in the right direction. You only have one chance to do it right the first time and it seems like that is the way you want to go so.............
Yes, that is the right sequence.
Yes, that is the right sequence.
Pappy said:
Yes sir thats the route i want to take and you and others have been a big help...the deflectors looked fine imo, didnt looked dried or cracked, looked and felt like a new peice of small rubber hose and were where they were supposed to be from pics i found on the web. I used the 518 on the crankcase like you suggested and applied it on one half using a small brush to put a very thin layer and stayed about 3/8 of an inch from the bearings or just past the top ,middle and bottom bolt holes....and used evinrude johnson gasket maker on the head gasket but only on the outside that seals around the water jacket and not where the metal rings seal the cylinders..
[
Just have to sandblast the clamps' put my pull starter, silencer, start and stop buttons and the hoses back on the powerhead and put it on the exhaust housing so i can (fingers crossed) start it up and make sure everythings sound then i can remove what needs removed get everything painted and my decals on the hood. Then finish the 81 evinrude 25hp for my sons boat and start looking for another motor and do it all again..got my eye on a 68 evinrude 18hp i can get for 50 bucks...ive always thought they cool motors and about as good a motor as any....jasper60103
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Looking good.
FYI. As I mentioned before, I sold off my ‘81 25 hp Johnson, but I still have some parts on hand. Including a like new CDI power pack and coils,
New old stock 3 ear clutch dog with matching forward gear, a clean complete 25 hp OMC carb setup with choke lever and mounting plate (replaces silencer).
The Ignition parts and carburetor were tested and in good working condition. Message me if interested.
Again, great work. I’m enjoying your thread. Thanks for sharing.
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FYI. As I mentioned before, I sold off my ‘81 25 hp Johnson, but I still have some parts on hand. Including a like new CDI power pack and coils,
New old stock 3 ear clutch dog with matching forward gear, a clean complete 25 hp OMC carb setup with choke lever and mounting plate (replaces silencer).
The Ignition parts and carburetor were tested and in good working condition. Message me if interested.
Again, great work. I’m enjoying your thread. Thanks for sharing.
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Very nice work!
What primer will you be using under your paint?
What primer will you be using under your paint?
Pappy said:
Started it up today( in my tank/tub) checked fwd/N/rev, throttle etc... Got it warmed up and let it run for 90 minutes and shut it down anf gave it a look over and couldnt see anything leaking etc... Primer? After seeing what it took to hand sand most of it down to get the zinc chromate omc used im definiteley going with the same( ive read a very light coat) stuff omc used...do i need to put a sealer over the zinc before painting??
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Word to the wise. Test that stuff on some scraps before you spray it. I am pretty handy at spraying spray cans but every type of zinc chromate I have ever sprayed wanted to run terribly. You need to shake that stuff to your arm falls off and just fog it on.Riverbean said:
LDUBS
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You need to shake the can until that little ball stops rattling around. 
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]No need for a sealer
When i said very light coat i was meaning what you said about "fog it on"... From everything ive researched about it its all pretty much to "fog it on". And my buddys dad told me when he got back from viet nam after his first tour before he went back for round two his "unit" (cant remember the exact term he used) decomissioned some ships and they would go in the ballast tanks and clean everything up before spraying zinc chromate to protect the inside of the tank...said you just "dusted it on" and didnt want anymore than that...probably be a week or two before i start priming and painting but i will take some before and after pics to share here..nccatfisher said:
So i was cleaning tools up before i remove the fly,coils etc... So i can acetone everything off before priming and i noticed that my loctite 518 was still in the package and realized i used the 271 to seal my crankcase and im not sure if i should just let it be or tear it apart and use the 518, only thing that worries me is you have to heat it up to 500 F to break the seal and im worried about distorting the powerhead/crankcase cover...i want to use the right sealer and would rather tear it apart now than in the future wich i dont think i would ever need to but???? What do you guys think? Leave it alone or reseal it? Im leaning towards the latter...
RaisedByWolves
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#-o
MrGiggles
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I wouldn't want to rely on Loctite to seal a crankcase.
From my experience working with red Loctite, I have never had any trouble getting it apart. If you do, some localized heat with a heat gun or propane torch would probably loosen it up and not hurt anything.
You will likely need to clean all of the bolts and chase the holes when you go back together. The drag from old Loctite will interfere with your torque values.
From what I'm reading about Loctite thread locker, it will not bond without steel in the equation, so separating the case once the bolts are out shouldn't be a big deal.
From my experience working with red Loctite, I have never had any trouble getting it apart. If you do, some localized heat with a heat gun or propane torch would probably loosen it up and not hurt anything.
You will likely need to clean all of the bolts and chase the holes when you go back together. The drag from old Loctite will interfere with your torque values.
From what I'm reading about Loctite thread locker, it will not bond without steel in the equation, so separating the case once the bolts are out shouldn't be a big deal.
