68 Mirrocraft deep V 14’ floor build

[farmer4life]

Hi folks, I stumbled on this site 2 years ago when I bought my first tinny, a 14 ft Mirrocraft 1968 Deep Fisherman. No leaks, in reasonable shape for a boat much older than I am. It was repainted at least once somewhere along the way and will need it soon again, the paint is flaking. I don’t love the red colour either, but I bought it cheap along with trailer needing TLC and a ‘94 Mercury 20HP that starts on the second pull every time.

First year I bought it two weeks before an annual fishing trip and put it straight in the water. Second year I picked up a trolling motor, and had time to replace flotation foam under the benches which some former owner had removed. This is the third year, I have about six weeks before the big trip and I’m itching to lay down a floor. The deep V makes it impossible to stand in the front 1/3 of the boat.

I’m a young guy with young kids and not a ton of spare time (or cash haha) so I want to keep this simple for now. I came across Dustin’s mod of a 14’ Alumacraft and am thinking something similar for now - keep it simple, ditch the benches, and open her up. I think I can make it happen for $500 or so including all materials, wood sealing, etc. This won’t be the finished configuration but it’s a start.

I’m posting here to keep myself accountable - will provide updates as I go.

This site has been a huge inspiration and so great to see all the creative mods and great build tips. I look forward to many future years of tinkering.

Here’s the pics of the original:



And one with the foam installed

 

[LDUBS]

The bench seats provide a lot of structure support to the boat. Without them the boat could fold up on itself. So, bad idea to remove them without adding something back. One alternative might be to create a walk-thru by replacing the center bench with boxes on either side tied to the floor framing and hull sides.

See post #3 in this thread: removing middle seat

 

[farmer4life]

Thanks LDUBS, noted. I’m planning to replace the seats with angle supports from the top down to the floor frame. Dustin tackled this problem as well in his build, and I’ve seen several others who did the same thing with good results.

 

[farmer4life]

Put the boat on a diet this afternoon. Good to get the benches out, the wood underneath was all rotten. Now it’s a blank canvas!

 

[airshot]

Bought a new one back in 1964, great boat, had an 18hp Evinrude, could pull a skier !

 

[Watch4Ice]

Nice! Mine looks about the same right now!
If you have a chance, could I trouble you to post a couple shots of your transom, and it's top trim? Looks like you've got a nice plate for the motor to clamp to, I'd like to build something similar.

 

[farmer4life]

Nice! Mine looks about the same right now!
If you have a chance, could I trouble you to post a couple shots of your transom, and it's top trim? Looks like you've got a nice plate for the motor to clamp to, I'd like to build something similar.

Sure! Here’s an older one, this is the best one I have late at night, haha. A previous owner built a nice heavy plate that goes over the back. The top lip is formed into a C-channel shape but only comes down the front of the transom maybe an inch. The motor clamps on the front side are secured to the transom wood. Will post more pictures in the morning.

Your boat looks great! So much potential - can’t wait to see what you do with it! I see you have the original emblem still on the side - mine are long gone, the boat didn’t come with them. When I get around to painting (next year?) I’ll pick up some decals.

 

[farmer4life]

Nice! Mine looks about the same right now!
If you have a chance, could I trouble you to post a couple shots of your transom, and it's top trim? Looks like you've got a nice plate for the motor to clamp to, I'd like to build something similar.

Better pictures front and back. The transom is in decent shape for the age of the boat, assuming it’s original (BIA tag is still attached). It’s on my list to replace but it’s solid, holds the motor well and doesn’t flex under weight.

I might consider going to full height transom. If I’m the only one in the boat it’s fairly back heavy (hoping the floor will change that). There’s not room to add a splash well because of the transom supports. But then I would need a new motor…

 

[Watch4Ice]

She's a beaut! Thanks a ton, that gives me some great visual reference, all my wood is toast. My emblems, unfortunately, are also toast so it'll be decals for me too.

Are you planning to put foam back in? I'm leaning toward some underseat storage.

 

[farmer4life]

Yes, but my foam will be beneath my soon-to-be-installed floor, so it’s out of sight. I have 12 cubic feet worth of foam panels, should give about 700 lbs of flotation (roughly 60 lbs/cu.ft.)

 

[airshot]

Better pictures front and back. The transom is in decent shape for the age of the boat, assuming it’s original (BIA tag is still attached). It’s on my list to replace but it’s solid, holds the motor well and doesn’t flex under weight.

I might consider going to full height transom. If I’m the only one in the boat it’s fairly back heavy (hoping the floor will change that). There’s not room to add a splash well because of the transom supports. But then I would need a new motor…

View attachment 116035View attachment 116036View attachment 116037View attachment 116038View attachment 116039

That extra piece over the transom is an add on, not factory. I would be suspicious of that wood. Looking at the color, holes left open and the added metal support, I think you will find that wood is gonna be soft. Doesn't look to be hard to replace, so be diligent in your inspection!! Those expensive motors don't float...not for one second when a transom fails. Good luck. ...

 

[farmer4life]

Yes, it looks straightforward to replace. I’m impressed by how not-soft the wood is, like I said the transom is solid and doesn’t flex under weight (I’m sure the added aluminum helps) but agree it’s not in top shape anymore.

 

[airshot]

Yes, it looks straightforward to replace. I’m impressed by how not-soft the wood is, like I said the transom is solid and doesn’t flex under weight (I’m sure the added aluminum helps) but agree it’s not in top shape anymore.

Looks concerning in the pic where the clamp is pushing on the transom wood, appears soft and crumbling there. Then the pic with the open hole where a bolt used to be, looks soft and ragged, these are signs of rotten wood when you have been around boats as many years as I have. That added piece of metal is absorbing a lot of the wood weakness and that could be a little scary. Just don't want to see you have any surprises.

 

[farmer4life]

I appreciate that. I’m thinking of replacing with a single board rather than plywood. Marine grade is $$ around here (planning to use regular exterior ply, well sealed, for the floor) and the transom isn’t that big so don’t want to buy a whole sheet. There’s a specialty wood shop close by where I can get hardwood planks, I’m sure I can find something the right size there for less than a sheet of marine grade.

I’ve seen other posts comparing hardwood vs plywood on here. Would welcome any thoughts.

 

[LDUBS]

I appreciate that. I’m thinking of replacing with a single board rather than plywood. Marine grade is $$ around here (planning to use regular exterior ply, well sealed, for the floor) and the transom isn’t that big so don’t want to buy a whole sheet. There’s a specialty wood shop close by where I can get hardwood planks, I’m sure I can find something the right size there for less than a sheet of marine grade.

I’ve seen other posts comparing hardwood vs plywood on here. Would welcome any thoughts.

Conventional wisdom on these forums is to use exterior grade ply for the transom too (as opposed to marine grade ply). An advantage to plywood is dimensional stability and of course ease of use. Whatever is used will need to be sealed/protected from the elements.

 

[farmer4life]

Conventional wisdom on these forums is to use exterior grade ply for the transom too (as opposed to marine grade ply). An advantage to plywood is dimensional stability and of course ease of use. Whatever is used will need to be sealed/protected from the elements.

Thanks. Maybe that is the ticket. Will make sure it is sealed well - I have the ingredients for old timers formula ready to go.

I’ve been working on the “spine” for the floor frame. More to do yet but it’s coming along nicely. I’ve built it so at the back of the boat, a 4’ wide sheet of plywood will just fit.

 

[airshot]

Talk to your wood supplier, get a wood that won't split easily if you don't go with plywood. All I have ever used is exterior grade plywood, but on a coyple I did use mahagony veneer to look classy on my old boat !!

 

[farmer4life]

I have enough plywood to do the transom so will go that route. More to come.

In the meantime, I’ve mostly finished the frame for the floor. Looks crooked in the photo but I promise it’s level! I raised it up another 1.5 inches from how I had it before, to be able to fit all the foam I need underneath. Next step: sealing.

 

[airshot]

That frame will make a solid floor!! Mabey a little overkill, my frame was no where near that stout, never had an issue.

 

[farmer4life]

Thanks. Yeah I probably over-engineered it. The original plan was to have it simpler (see earlier post) but I did the math on how much foam would fit underneath and decided I needed more. Rather than dismantle what I had, I just built on top. All that’s left is to add bracing where the seat posts will be.