'68 Mirrocraft Rebuild

[Triple obsession]

Beautiful job =D>

I planning on Almond for the bottom & interior on my Starcraft, but I couldn't decide on Regal red or a dark blue for the topside.
Red it will be.

 

[rscottp]

Looks great! I would wait on the black stripe, live with the two tone for a while to see how you like it. You can always add it later, just my 2 cents!

 

[Fourbtgait]

Finished the hull painting. Going to let it sit for 1-2 weeks and harden fully. Might wax the almond to seal the pores in the paint fully.
But yes, I have decided to wait on the black boot stripe.
I will also paint any of the interior of the hull that shows with the almond also. The white is just so glaringly white, the almond is clean, subtle.
I had thought of the dark blue also, but I think the regal red looks better.
The original Mirrocraft emblems where broken, but I've talked with Mirrocraft and will buy two simple name decals to go on the stern.
I need to replace one trailer roller, add a middle cross piece for another roller. The way the trailer is designed, there is no mid support of the bow when loading/unloading.
Still thinking of putting the axle over the springs. By doing so I would drop the hull 3" lower, but need to verify several things first.

Merry Christmas to all who read this build.

 

[bigwave]

I would put a cross member and new roller. If you go that route it would also let you extend the bunk boards allowing for easier loading. The swivel bunks are great if your dropping in a river or flat, however they serve no purpose if you use a ramp. It will also distribute the weight of the boat more evenly under the axle. Just a suggestion. Your boat is turning out real nice.

 

[Fourbtgait]

bigwave » 21 Dec 2013, 14:55[/url]"]I would put a cross member and new roller. If you go that route it would also let you extend the bunk boards allowing for easier loading. The swivel bunks are great if your dropping in a river or flat, however they serve no purpose if you use a ramp. It will also distribute the weight of the boat more evenly under the axle. Just a suggestion. Your boat is turning out real nice.

Yes, that is what I was thinking. Only ramps here basically, some shallow where the wheels of the truck are in water. I have thought of installing the cross member, roller and possibly extend the boards up to the cross member.

 

[Fourbtgait]

Waiting on a new roller for the trailer before putting the boat back on the trailer. At least this way, the paint will have cured for over 2 weeks.

Here is the additions to the trailer. The old bunks were only 32" long, new ones just over 5' although i dont think the last 6-8" will contact the hull. Plus a roller for the keel at the new cross member for added support/stability. Will be a lot more stable when completeing the interior. When i put the hull back on the trailer, i may move the bunks outward the next holes which would stabalize it more, drop it maybe 1/2" lower.

I looked at moving the axle from under ther springs to over, it would gain me 2 3/4" lower, but when checking the tire clearance to the fender, trailer empty only gives me 2" clear. So much for that idea.

Happy new year ya'll

 

[bigwave]

Looks good, I think you will be way more stable with that setup on the trailer.

 

[Fourbtgait]

Flipped over with no scratches, back on the trailer.
Couple adjustments to the trailer supports, then prime/paint interior that shows.

 

[bassfisherjk58]

Color of the boat looks great.Happy New Year!

 

[Fourbtgait]

And a happy New Year to you and everyone else.
Adjusted the trailer, putting the bunks out farther to the last holes. Should help stabalize it even more.
Found the tag on the trailer, it is rated for 1,250 pound capacity. Im guessing at the moment the boat weighs 325. Once I complete it, hang the motor, gear and all, if I have the tire/fender clearance still, I will revisit flipping the axle.
Tomorrow the fun begins again.

 

[Fourbtgait]

I was asked for further clarification on how I leveled the floors. So here is a few pictures with descriptions.
First the hull needs to be as level as possible fore/aft, side/side and stable.
At the stern hull floor ribs, I put a piece of 3/4" plywood spanning 2 ribs. On top of this another piece of ply shimmed up at the front to make it level, verify level side to side. That way as the torpedo laser level is turned to hit each rib, it stays level.

 

[Fourbtgait]

Inside of hull that shows primed, finish coated. Iner hull sides that are exposed are Almond. Inside lockers if the hull shows is white.
Spent the morning taking plastic and tape off.
Making poster board patterns for locker bottoms.
All lockers will be 1/4" ply, battery and fuel floors are 1/2" ply.

 

[rscottp]

It really is looking great. Build looks tight!

 

[Fourbtgait]

No matter how careful one is setting up the compartments, they are never perfectly square. Which then leaves one to make templates the cut and fit.
All compartments are finally boxed in, just have to remove the pieces and put 2 coats of sealer on them, one coat of white enamel.
While they dry for each coat, I will template and cout out any side pieces, then the 3 main floors.
Not getting much done at weeknights, started my spring exercise routine, plus keeping the dog and wife happy.
Heres a few pictures showing storage. Once I get the compartments completed, I still have some angles for the deck to install, including for the bow pedestal seat.

 

[Humj7]

Nice work ! Looks like you Nailed the color you where going for.

 

[rscottp]

Your build is really coming together. Looks great!

 

[Fourbtgait]

Had the day off work, got a fair amount done.

 

[bigwave]

Very nice, everything is coming together nicely.....cant wait to see the finished product. =D> =D>

 

[Fourbtgait]

Thanks Bigwave and others who have commented.
I realized this morning in my fog of sleep I need to recut one piece, do things in a certain order.
I need to clean the shop out before going farther, then complete the compartments, run conduit for what little electrical I will have, then install foam. The boat originally had 9 cu. ft. of foam, I calculate I will have 11 cu. ft., all of it above the floor board.
Big question is, when you guys have run the carpet, how much smaller was your plywood cut at the edge so it lays flat due to the carpet thickness?
3/16" for very tight fit?
1/4" better fit?

 

[rscottp]

Fourbtgait » 21 Jan 2014, 10:57[/url]"]Thanks Bigwave and others who have commented.
I realized this morning in my fog of sleep I need to recut one piece, do things in a certain order.
I need to clean the shop out before going farther, then complete the compartments, run conduit for what little electrical I will have, then install foam. The boat originally had 9 cu. ft. of foam, I calculate I will have 11 cu. ft., all of it above the floor board.
Big question is, when you guys have run the carpet, how much smaller was your plywood cut at the edge so it lays flat due to the carpet thickness?
3/16" for very tight fit?
1/4" better fit?

I would think a 1/4" is better. I have an aluminum hatch from Lund that is carpeted and I think it has even more than a 1/4". The hatch I made on my old bow platform was really tight with the carpet, I think that was 3/16" or so.