70’s Starcraft 14’ Seafarer “By Golly”

[tidmarshsmiths5]

Wow! That is great! Your woodworking skills are impressive.

 

[Makaw]

Thanks Kismet and Tidmarsh!

 

[Makaw]

Looking for feedback… first look at my trolling motor mount location.

Do I have enough space on the bow to mount a low-profile LED navigation light SAFELY? By safely, I mean do you think other boats on my starboard side would actually be able to see the light? I don’t want the trolling motor to get in the way of light visibility.

Either way, I’d prefer feedback as well as any specific light recommendations that have worked well for you. Thanks in advance!

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

That's exactly how I mounted my motor. I had a bow light I was going to put on but now I think I'll install a base and use a stowaway.

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[Makaw]

That's exactly how I mounted my motor. I had a bow light I was going to put on but now I think I'll install a base and use a stowaway.

What’s the reason for the switch, Weldor? The stowaway was my second choice (more or less based on reviews of that style compared to hard-wired lights). Unless it’s necessary to get the lights higher on the bow, my first choice is still leaning low-profile. But the highest priority is functional and safe!

 

[Weldorthemagnificent]

My reason is for visibility above the trolling motor

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[Weldorthemagnificent]

Some people use led light strips below the gunwale. That actually looks pretty cool as well

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[Makaw]

I think you’ve talked me out of the standard low profile. I’ve seen both the removable post style as well as the gunnel LED strip style, I’m not sure which I like more. Let me know if you make the change - I’d love to see a photo of your new setup.

I probably won’t be getting the boat out of storage for at least another month, so I’ve got some time to decide, but I’m thinking about tackling some of the electrical changes before the boat sees water this spring.

 

[Makaw]

New push-to-choke ignition and switch panel are on their way. I'm itching for warm weather here in Michigan so I can finally get the boat out and start working on it! The new ignition will be relocated near the kill switch in front of the throttle control. The current choke control is on a separate switch, so cold starts require two hands...not ideal. One-handed ignition will be appreciated.

The switch panel will be mounted on the steering console where the ignition is currently installed. I spent a ton of time researching switch panel options and ended up pulling the trigger on a nicer Blue Sea Systems 4 switch panel. One switch is dedicated to the USB and 12-volt charging outlets. The other three will be set up for boat lighting (bow nav lights + interior lights + anchor light), which will allow me to venture out earlier and stay out later on the water in pursuit of fish.

As soon as the weather is consistently warmer, I plan on [gently] booting my wife out of her garage parking spot so that I can move the boat inside

 

[Makaw]

Finally got the boat out! Trying to get a jump on more modifications before walleye season opens back up.

Big question for you experienced guys - do you think I could benefit from raising my outboard? The fin runs about 2” below the bottom of the keel, as it sits currently. See picture below.
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[Weldorthemagnificent]

Is that the trim you run the motor at? If so, yes, raise it up. I use a spacer under the clamp to try different heights until I find that happy spot before making anything permanent. Pieces of wood, flatbar, anything that fits will work.

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[Makaw]

Weldor,

Yes, I’ve only run it at one depth, which is fully seated on the transom. Last year was my first time running, so I have no previous baseline for comparison. It performed fine/above my expectations, I think? A touch higher top speed would be nice, but I also run a river a lot so that extra 1-2” of skeg clearance might come in handy.

I haven’t tried shimming, but that sounds like an easy way to do some quick tests before I dive in and make a custom jack plate. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Makaw]

Tested the new electrical configuration on the console and new ignition. I previously had the kill switch accidentally wired incorrectly. Refreshed all wires with new terminals. Everything works great. Bow and stern lights for now. Interior accent/utility lights will come later.

I also decided to redesign the side console where the throttle, ignition, and kill switch all mount. The one I put together last year did the job, but wasn’t great. The new one has a much better layout and will also hide all the added wiring for better/cleaner routing to the console.
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[Makaw]

Not finished, but here is how the new side console is laid out. I’ll also be cutting out a top access hatch for ignition and kill switch wiring access, and that will also give me a bit of storage space.
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[Weldorthemagnificent]

Pretty slick side console

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[akboats]

Looking good.

 

[Makaw]

Thanks guys!

Here is the *almost* finished console, mounted. I added a hatch, mainly for electrical access. I don’t really care about having built-in storage for this boat, but I’m sure the extra bit of space in the hatch will come in handy.

The front notch on the top (forward) will have a really handy function I’m excited about. More to come on that. The only remaining things would be an internal divider to section off the inside and to add some stability/rigidity to the console.


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[Makaw]

Captain’s swivel chair conversion. The mounting platform is integrated with the side console to gain back the mid-ship hull support that I lost by deleting the bench seat.
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[LDUBS]

I like the little hatch in front of the shifter. There is always a some little glovebox type stuff that needs to be put somewhere.

Looking forward to hearing more about the "notch". I have a guess, but ain't sharing! :LOL2:

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Nice work! 8) I recognize allot of similiar construction to our '67 Starcraft MarinerV Brochure

Phase II