70’s Starcraft 14’ Seafarer “By Golly”

[Makaw]

Quick update. I've been quiet because I decided to pause the build so that I could just enjoy the boat for a bit. Even though it's not nearly complete, I'm loving every minute I've spent out so far (apart from losing my trolling motor drive pin in 12ft of water while fishing - didn't love that). I've been able to take my son out and some friends as well. Thankfully fish don't care how nice your boat looks! The photos below are from a guy's camping/fishing weekend that we did a few weeks back. We caught largemouth, smallmouth, rock bass, pike, perch, crappie and sunfish.

I'm getting new rubber mounted on my trailer wheels tomorrow, then hopefully I can take my boy fishing again this weekend. His first time out this year he tied into ~5 lb sheepshead (on a swim jig setup that he handpicked) and it nearly pulled him overboard. I'm pretty sure that fight got him addicted!
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[Makaw]

Seeking input! Question about ice damage to riveted hulls.

A few weeks ago I completely gutted my boat for winter storage, and before it made it back to shelter it got some rainwater in the bottom of the hull, which has now frozen solid.

I’m pretty sure I had some frozen water through the last winter season near the the transom. I didn’t notice any issues with leaking while on the water this past year, so I’m assuming/hoping ice isn’t too big of an issue.

Can freezing water damage ribs or riveted seams? It doesn’t currently leak but I don’t want to create an issue by being lax with storage conditions.

 

[Ronbedard57]

Hi
The Arkansas Traveler I’ve restored definitely had sprung rivets due to ice damage. The “ribs” actually looked swollen from the expansion pressure, and many rivets in those areas required replacement or rebucking.
I’m pretty careful about letting any water be present when it could freeze.

 

[airshot]

I would never take the chance, while many make it thru OK, I would take steps to keep the water out !! Heck just turn it over or leave the drain plug out and tilted back.

 

[Makaw]

I appreciate the input Ron and airshot. I’ll be taking the water/ice more seriously from now on. I’m now wondering how much trouble I would be in if I booted my wife’s SUV from the garage this weekend (during this Michigan blizzard) to make room for the boat so I could get it thawed. I doubt that would go over very well…best to wait.

 

[airshot]

I appreciate the input Ron and airshot. I’ll be taking the water/ice more seriously from now on. I’m now wondering how much trouble I would be in if I booted my wife’s SUV from the garage this weekend (during this Michigan blizzard) to make room for the boat so I could get it thawed. I doubt that would go over very well…best to wait.

Oh...yea...setting the wifes car outside just to keep your boat warm !!!! BIG gamble there...

 

[Makaw]

I'm getting started on my custom manual jack plate. I work at an automotive manufacturing business that buys a decent amount of steel and aluminum, so I was able to get our buyer to find me a drop cut of 2.5" x 2.5" x 0.25" aluminum angle from a supplier for about 60% discount. I'll be raising my outboard roughly 2" and expect to have about 3-4" of total adjustment length from the jack plate. Knowing guys who can machine me precision slots is also a bonus!

HOT TIP: random end cuts are called "drops" from most metal suppliers and they usually sell these cut offs as-is (for length) at a good discount. If you're looking for a smallish piece, it can definitely be beneficial to call around and see if there are drops that will fit your needs!

 

[Makaw]

Outside brackets finally got slotted! My new outboard “baseline” will be raised 2” from what is was before. From this baseline I will then have roughly 1.5” of mobility both up and down, for a total of 3” of bracket movement. Should be perfect for my needs.

 

[TheGrandestPoobah]

I really like the slotted outer piece instead of multiple bolt-holes. infinite adjust-ability and looks cleaner

 

[Makaw]

I really like the slotted outer piece instead of multiple bolt-holes. infinite adjust-ability and looks cleaner

Thanks! That’s what I was going for.

 

[Makaw]

ADVICE NEEDED!!!!

What are some tips that might help me remove my 50 year old, rotten transom? All bolts are out, but the wood is worse than I thought and wedged very tightly. I tried using a come-along mounted in my garage to “lift” it, but the heavy duty eye bolts are just tearing out.

I really want it to come out in one piece so I can use it as a template for the replacement, or else I’d just cut/rip it out in pieces. That will be last resort.

Any helpful advice is appreciated!!

 

[Makaw]

Disregard my last post. After reefing on it for the last 45 minutes I finally got it free! The come-along worked great, I just had to switch up how I attached the chain and find areas with “good” wood to lag screws for the chain, then slowly working it out with constant prying.

The wood is worse than I initially thought. Almost completely delaminated. I’m really glad I decided to tackle this now.

 

[airshot]

From the looks of the rest of your work, I have no doubt you will make it fit like it should !!!

 

[Makaw]

Started doing some paint prep work on the transom. This was after using a polycarbonate abrasive wheel on my angle grinder. It worked ok. I was hoping the disc would be more flexible and provide more uniform sanding because they look kind of spongy. But the poly is actually quite rigid. Laying it flat didn’t work well so I ended up quickly gliding over with the edge of the disc, hence the pattern you see here. I’m not going for complete paint removal, just making sure the surface is prepped enough for primer. I’ll probably random orbital sand and do some hand sanding around seams and rivets.

 

[TheGrandestPoobah]

Started doing some paint prep work on the transom. This was after using a polycarbonate abrasive wheel on my angle grinder. It worked ok. I was hoping the disc would be more flexible and provide more uniform sanding because they look kind of spongy. But the poly is actually quite rigid. Laying it flat didn’t work well so I ended up quickly gliding over with the edge of the disc, hence the pattern you see here. I’m not going for complete paint removal, just making sure the surface is prepped enough for primer. I’ll probably random orbital sand and do some hand sanding around seams and rivets.

What are your plans for paint selection?

 

[Makaw]

@TheGrandestPoobah The exterior will be Rustoleum topside paint in blue. Interior will be Rustoleum enamel in light grey. I think I might prep and paint the transom just to make sure my procedure is sound before doing the entire boat.

 

[Makaw]

Put a smooth radius on the edges of the bench supports. They’ve always been annoyingly sharp.

 

[Makaw]

I’m also working on my jack plate.

I was planning on using existing holes in the transom for the jack plate. Did a clamp test, and my assembly is roughly 1/2” off center on the transom. Zero wiggle room to make it work with existing holes.

Question: Should I center the jack plate? (Which will mean sealing 4 holes and redrilling? Or do I leave as-is because 1/2” isn’t a big deal?

 

[Makaw]

I’ve been picking away at little things this week.

Most of the rivets have been re-bucked. Inside seams have been cleaned up and prepped for G/flex epoxy. Boat is now flipped on the trailer. This weekend I’m hoping to clean up external seams, buck the remaining rivets, and scuff bottom for paint prep.

Then I’ll have to figure out a way to heat my garage enough to allow for primer and paint cure because the weather isn’t looking like it will cooperate.

 

[Makaw]

First G/flex application tonight. Sealed the outer hull rivet seams. Took a minute to get adjusted to working with it, but it went on well and using some low heat really works it into the cracks nicely while getting air bubbles out.

Thanks to @DaleH and all his previous posts on the matter, they were helpful. If you use the forum search functionality it’s easy to find them.