76 Richline 14ft V Bottom Conversion

[Ron42261]

Hi All
Im new here & looks like a Great site.

While back I bought a 76 Richline 14ft V Bottom with a 6hp. Crysler and trailer for $300. Ive been working on it cleaned it up, fix the trailer transom brace welded,used the Cabelas Alum. boat patch on the rivets. Worked on the outborad and its running.


I bought a new Min Kota Power Drive - no auto pilot- 50 lb. trust think it will be big enough for this boat?

I would like to deck it from the front seat to the bow at the same hight as the seat. I was thinking to mount the trolling motor- I would block up to the hight of the boat rail ( make the blocking the same size as the trolling motor mount) I would like a hinged lid and keep my battery up front.

I also want to beck from the back bench to the transom and cut out around the outborad and bob off back corners so I can hinge it for my gas and storage. Also like a floor in between benches

I dont mind screwing or riveting wood to the benches but really not wanting to do that to the hull.
How you guys attaching your framing to the boat. Im not worried about the floor and the back deck but the deck up front in the bow will have the trolling motor attached to it. I figured it needs to be soild.

Thanks Ron

 

[Jim]

Welcome Ron,
Thanks for joining!

Snowboardinmn did his this way: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=2636&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=20

Alumacraftjoe did his like this: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1555&st=0&sk=t&sd=a&start=20

Backpain did his like this: https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1319

This is just three of the many. You gave me an idea. I think I am going to try to organize the mods somehow for quick reference.

Take a quick look at the youtube video of the members mods for more ideas: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KNyg5gvA5b8

Jim

 

[ky_madman]

Here's a link to my build
https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=2329
Posted it in the wrong area.
Hey Jim, you wanna move it to this area?
Anyway, Good Luck! Can't wait to see the photos.

 

[Ron42261]

Thanks Guys
Tell me what I need to do the wiring. All I have right now is a trolling motor , I like to add a fish finder, fishing light & spot light latter on .
Thanks

 

[Old Bill]

Ron, I have a 1957 Richline 14' boat that I've been considering adding a deck from the bow seat to the second seat aft.

As you can see in the below photo all I've done so far is clobber together some 2 x 2 framing. Maybe some day I'll buy some 1/2" plywood and finish the job. But...maybe not!

The object wrapped in a black garage bag is a body I forgot to dump last weekend! OK, would you believe it's a sand bag??

Switchback also owns a 14' Richline boat and has made some great modifications to it. You can view them at:
https://tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=1600

 

[Ron42261]

I bought me 2 sheets of CDX 1/2 ply. and 1 gallon of water seal today.
I guess Ill dive in see what kind of mess I can come up with.
I finshed up water proffing all the rivets and the 3 runners on the bottom last night.
I plan on painting the inside bottom with bed coating - just in case Ive missed anything from the bottom side.

Ill get some pics og my progress.

Hoping some one might tell me what kind of prep I need for the Dupli-Color bed coating on the alum.

Thanks
Ron

 

[switchback]

Ron, I have the 50 lb. thrust minnkota foot control tm on my boat and it works great for that size boat.

Bill, looks good so far.

 

[Ron42261]

Thought I would post a pic.

I Used Cabelas Alum. boat patch on all the rivets that is in the water.
On the 3 runners things I use Super Blue silacon the stuff in a caulkin tube you get at the parts store that you use for gaskets. Man that stuff really stinks.
I have it sealed from the outside and now Im ready to paint the bed liner in side. Its black , they told me its paintable when dry. I may do the entire inside with it not sure yet.
Im planin on doing the floor and decks this weekend- I may do my framing a little different .
Ill get some more pics.
Thanks Ron

 

[Old Bill]

Ron, the boat is looking very good!

Just curious, but, did you seal all the rivets because they leaked, or were you just taking precariously measures?

Maybe I was just lucky, but when i bought my Richline last year none of the rivets leaked.

 

[Ron42261]

Bill
I water tested it and crawled under it - I had maybe 12 rivets leaking but not bad, someone had painted the bottom with roof tar years ago I wanted to be sure .


I made double sure this evening I painted the inside with bed liner.
Woodwork starts Sat.
Ron

 

[Ron42261]

Bill
Looks like your boat is in pretty good shape, I think my boat was a rental at on time the marinas around here I was told used to rent Richline boats they had bought from Bass Pro. Mine had an old Bass Pro sticker on it.

To many Ol Country Boys like me out catfishin in her shes got a ding or two.
I gave $300.00 for boat trailer and 6hp. outborad
Ron

 

[Ron42261]

I got a little more done today.
Nothing is attached nor water sealed yet ran out of plywood.
Need to get hinges also,
I did my framing a little different - I made sleepers that sit on the ribs & on the fronts and backs of the benches I scribed ply to fit and attached a cleat to carry my floor.

The bow "I still need to make a shelf for my battery" the way I made it- it slides back to the front bench and down at the bow. The alum. benches have a small lip & I cut a dado in the back of the framing to lock it down when its slid in place.

I will screw the ply to the benches and cleats nothing is attached to the hull.
I will deck the back with a filp up lid at the transom. I will also ply the top of the center bench.

I was thinking about runing the carpet up the sides even with the tops of the benches. Is there some kind of a strip I can attach the top edge of the carpet on the sides of the boat, something like a trim ?????????
I really wasnt wanting to glue the carpet to the alum. I would like to keep everything removable.

Heres a few pics.
Ron

 

[Waterwings]

Nice work! Just a thought concerning not gluing the carpet to the sides: What about using some sturdy adhesive-backed Velcro along the edges of the hull, and the opposite side of the velcro on the back of the carpet? Not sure if it would hold well on the aluminum or the carpet, but it's the only idea I have so far

 

[bobessary]

thi only thought is get some of the thin flat strips of aluminum and use it like a tac strip on the carpet raises the cost a little but might look nice.... also much like the other v-hull folks have you thought about using styrofoam to support your floating edges of the floor...good progress on what you have done so far keep us up to date

 

[Ron42261]

I have another problem.
I was looking at the rear bench seeing what I need to deck it back to the transom.My 6 gal fule tank sticks above the bench and leaves no room for mounting cleats. So Im going to need 3 gal tank.

My ? is should I get 2-3 gal. tanks ??? I have a old 6hp. outborad & havent had it out yet really havent a clue how much gas it uses.
Maybe it will run all day on 3 gal.??

If I went with 2- 3 gal. tanks - 1 each side of my transom brace is there any kind of plumbing where I can connect both tanks to the main fule line befor the primer blub? or would it be better to just have like a quick connect
on each tank? is there such??

Thanks Ron

 

[Old Bill]

Ron, you are making great progress with the work on your boat!

I have a Nissan 4 HP four-stroke motor (boosted to 6 HP) and it will burn less than one quart of gasoline an hour. If your 6 HP motor is a two-stroke, it would be my guess that it will burn one quart or slightly more in an hour.

If so, a three gallon fuel tank should last you all day.

Based upon my experiences with small outboard motors I would strongly suggest that you spend $22.00 and buy a fuel water separator and install it between your fuel tank(s) and the motor. The idle and main jets on the smaller motors are very small and tend to blockage with all the trash and water in todays gasoline!

If you should install one, be sure and install the fuel line bulb between the filter and the motor.

Keep the photos coming!

 

[Ron42261]

Thanks Bill
I will get a fuel water separator and get a filter - or does the fuel water separator do it all ? The plumbing on the old motor looks rigged any how & needs reworking. Latter on Ill get some pics of it to see what I need to do.

I went and picked up my carpet , edge strips, glue,plywood,& a hinge.
I may wish I had of spent the $ and bought SS - I bought the nickel plated hinge.
I dont know If Im going to finish it by next weekend like I had planned.
Still alot of work to do
Thanks Ron

 

[Old Bill]

Thanks Bill
I will get a fuel water separator and get a filter - or does the fuel water separator do it all ? The plumbing on the old motor looks rigged any how & needs reworking. Latter on Ill get some pics of it to see what I need to do.

I went and picked up my carpet , edge strips, glue,plywood,& a hinge.
I may wish I had of spent the $ and bought SS - I bought the nickel plated hinge.
I dont know If Im going to finish it by next weekend like I had planned.
Still alot of work to do
Thanks Ron

Ron, the fuel water separator kit come with a spin on/off filter that will work both with plain gasoline and gasoline mixed with two-stroke oil. Basspro has them for $21.99. I got mine from Academy for $19.99 and Wal-mart also has them for slightly more. They all look like they are made by the same company...in China! i've been told that the filter should be changed once a year. Filters cost about $8 to $9.00.

The nickel plated hinges should last a very long time before they start rusting.

 

[Ron42261]

Thanks again Bill

Dadgum it I finally have the wood work 99.9% done [-o<
I all ready had my ply. scribed to fit sitting on top the back seat.

What I had in mind when I started the back deck wasnt gona work.
Im getting a 3 gal fule tank thats smaller but I needed all the hight I had
no room for framing inside the opening.

I think things worked out better with what I came up with + raised up my rear seat 1 1/2in. & made all the benches the same hight.

I ran 2X4s on the flat "cantalevered? " off the back seat. Ripped my 1/2 decking the width of the seat & screwed my 2X4 to the bench decking.

Then I cut a 4 in. trim out of 1/2 ply. screwed that to my 2X4s-then to the up right 1/2 ply that on the front of the alum. bench.

The bottom up right ply. sits back and under the 3/4 in. lip on the alum. bench. Any how its all locked in and nothing attached to the boat.
I will be able to remove a few screws and remove any on the decks or floor.

I think I need to cut the back lid into . With the seat installed I wont be able to go forward enough to get it out.

Now just gota do the water sealer + carpet + wireing [-o<

I have done vinil a few times could use some pointers
I bought 6 X 20 ft. + glue + 1/4 staples

I would be greatful for some advise

Thanks
Ron
I took a few pics.

 

[Old Bill]

Ron, you are making so much headway with all your modifications...and I still haven't got around to buying any plywood!

I like the way you soved the the problem of the rear bench seat not being high enough. I ran into the same problem when I tried to place an ice chest behind my rear bench. My swivel seat would hit the lid of the ice chest and keep me from turning side to side. I may raise the top of my rear bench seat...if I ever get around to buying some plywood!

Keep up the good work!!