Hey guys I'm new here and I got a new boat and I am trying to figure out a few things. It's a new to me 1983 Bass Tracker 2. It has a 1976 Evinrude 55hp engine. Boat is in need of a transom and new floor. I have researched the transom replacement and I am okay doing that. I need a new steering cable and don't know what size to get. The one on it is not correct so I can't go by that. Also need new throttle and shift cables if anyone has any info on that. I took it on a water test and it runs great on the lake. It has a nice trailer not tracker brand. Figured I wasn't a bad deal at 1200 for a boat that runs and floats. It's going to be my new Musky boat once ai get it going again.
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83 Bass Tracker restoration the new Musky Waggon
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Here are some pics of her from last night when I brought her home.
The floor is much worse than I thought and is almost like powder. I will get some more pics after the teardown.
The transom wood isn't falling out but it must be soft. It flexes and has started to tear up the rear supports.
I will come up with a repair once I get everything apart. I still think it was a solid buy and its going to make a great musky boat when . finished.
Oh and I found a bonus in the boat the PO didn't take out.
I am trying to figure out what color combo to go with. I would like to either paint or wrap the hull with flat black and do lime green carpet but cant find any. The other option is just to clean the aluminum up nice and use gunmetal grey carpet. My plan is to extend the front deck to the console and build a back deck. Two seats on the front deck and one rear so I room when the kids want to go.
If you guys have done one of these and want to share tips or tricks feel free. This is my first boat resto.
The floor is much worse than I thought and is almost like powder. I will get some more pics after the teardown.
The transom wood isn't falling out but it must be soft. It flexes and has started to tear up the rear supports.
I will come up with a repair once I get everything apart. I still think it was a solid buy and its going to make a great musky boat when . finished.
Oh and I found a bonus in the boat the PO didn't take out.
I am trying to figure out what color combo to go with. I would like to either paint or wrap the hull with flat black and do lime green carpet but cant find any. The other option is just to clean the aluminum up nice and use gunmetal grey carpet. My plan is to extend the front deck to the console and build a back deck. Two seats on the front deck and one rear so I room when the kids want to go.
If you guys have done one of these and want to share tips or tricks feel free. This is my first boat resto.
Wow so I got everything tore down to the livewell and figured out they are welded to the boat hull tube. My idea was to move them back between the float pods to lower the front seats. Have any of you guys tried to remove these before ot would it be better to just cut them down lower and build over them? This part is really wrecking my intended layout for this boat.
I think the solution is to cut the fill tube loose from the hull with a hole saw and install these. Then I can hook a hose up and mount the livewell in a different location. I am a little scared of mounting something like this below the water line but is seems like a good plan.
Instead of bumping my own thread I will just update posts.
Plan C
The tube is welded into the hull for a fitting. I am going to find a hole saw that fits over the od if the welded tube. I will cut the weld from inside the the livewell. that will leave a nice stub to attach a hose to. I can use a T fitting to feed the pump and I will have access to it after I build a new lower seat platform.
I think the solution is to cut the fill tube loose from the hull with a hole saw and install these. Then I can hook a hose up and mount the livewell in a different location. I am a little scared of mounting something like this below the water line but is seems like a good plan.
Instead of bumping my own thread I will just update posts.
Plan C
The tube is welded into the hull for a fitting. I am going to find a hole saw that fits over the od if the welded tube. I will cut the weld from inside the the livewell. that will leave a nice stub to attach a hose to. I can use a T fitting to feed the pump and I will have access to it after I build a new lower seat platform.
ckhenshaw4
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I don't have any words of advice, but I just purchased a 1980 Bass Tracker II, and will be doing the same thing this winter. So I will be following you right along. Good luck, and if I find out any information, I will let you know.
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ckhenshaw4 said:
Awesome man! If you start a thread let me know so i can follow along. I sold my Bass Cat Eyra and bought this and so far I love it. It has tons of potential for a small boat. Plus we bought a cabin on a chain of three lakes in WI. The boat launch is on the north lake and our cabin is on the middle lake. The Bass Cat was too wide to fit through the culvert under the road lol. I fish for Musky 85% of the time im up there. The rest is bobber fishing with the wife and kids so I didn't want or need a huge boat anymore. I caught my PB Musky this year 53" out of a 12 ft flat bottom. I fell in love with that style boat and realized you don't need a 45K boat to catch big fish.
gatorglenn
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Trackermarineparts.com. On line, or if you call talk to Tammy she's awesome.
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Thanks gatorglenn for the link I will check them out.
Well this is where things ended up last night. I ran out of beer and energy so I called it quits. I am going to get after it again tonight when I get home.
I think I am going to use square aluminum tube and rivets to build the framework for the deck. I will probably use pool noodles to replace all the foam I am removing. Now that I have my livewell situation sorted out I feel a lot better about the project.
Well this is where things ended up last night. I ran out of beer and energy so I called it quits. I am going to get after it again tonight when I get home.
I think I am going to use square aluminum tube and rivets to build the framework for the deck. I will probably use pool noodles to replace all the foam I am removing. Now that I have my livewell situation sorted out I feel a lot better about the project.
Does anyone know if the aluminum panels that cover the big foam pods in the rear have to stay there? I am considering removing them all together and moving the console back about 2-3 feet. I just want to make sure it's not a structural part of the boat.
Got the motor off today. Built a stand for it that will work great for pulling the lower unit off and changing the water pump. I think I'm going to paint it black. I got the rest of the foam cleaned out also. Tomorrow I'm going to drill rivits and cut welds. Should be an adventure lol.
Bowlershop
Well-known member
I have 2 builds on here and one is the same as the one you are doing, checki it out. I don't know how to post the link but it's a 1984 bass tracker I. I used closed cell sheet foam under the floor of mine.
Bowlershop
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https://www.forum.tinboats.net/viewtopic.php?f=21&t=34993&hilit=1984+bass+tracker+I
Bowlershop
Well-known member
I figured out how to link it, check it out for ideas. Good luck with your build.
Msky_Hntr said:Wow so I got everything tore down to the livewell and figured out they are welded to the boat hull tube. My idea was to move them back between the float pods to lower the front seats. Have any of you guys tried to remove these before ot would it be better to just cut them down lower and build over them? This part is really wrecking my intended layout for this boat.
I think the solution is to cut the fill tube loose from the hull with a hole saw and install these. Then I can hook a hose up and mount the livewell in a different location. I am a little scared of mounting something like this below the water line but is seems like a good plan.
Instead of bumping my own thread I will just update posts.
Plan C
The tube is welded into the hull for a fitting. I am going to find a hole saw that fits over the od if the welded tube. I will cut the weld from inside the the livewell. that will leave a nice stub to attach a hose to. I can use a T fitting to feed the pump and I will have access to it after I build a new lower seat platform.
The piece pictured is called a thru-hull. They are fine to use below the waterline as long as they have a ball valve (in this case called a seacock) attached directly to the thru-hull before you make any hose connections.
With an Aluminum hull, you need to avoid stainless steel or bronze thru-hulls and seacocks because of dissimilar metals corrosion. The other options are generally nylon. On my parent's aluminum sailboat, which has 17 thru-hulls below the waterline, they use a proprietary plastic called Marelon by Forespar that is purportedly stronger than nylon. But the main reason I would use a Forespar seacock is that they are designed so that if the handle ever snaps off in your hand, the broken handle is still a wrench that can operate the valve (they are cast with shapes that mate even if the main connection fails).
Also, be sure to put two hose clamps on all hoses connected to seacocks.
Good luck,
John
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