a new jet ski jet boat project

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Lol yea that's 8-9 Amps for the pair of em I.think the ts is rated at 4 or 8 amps it would be kinda nice to mount a alternator generator for xtra juice one of the self fielding types in a bigger rig like yours
 
Oil lines all hooked up and bled used the 1/2'' id tubing ac used to prevent an air bubble issue, clear hose helps with that, I also shimmed the motor to get the coupler in happy allignment. and I sealed the front of the boat where a hatch used to be and installed my fuel/oil filler caps its looking pretty nice. The trim motor is connected to a special rod I made out of cold rolled 5/16 rod far stronger than the 3/16 rod it had b4 and harder than stainless. I also got some new lexan for the side windows and bolted up my pumps support brace using all stainless hardware and added a zinc anode. Dont mind the very lumpy padding I know im not good at mig welding aluminum lol
 

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this is how i lost my side corner windows , @ 30 seconds also the design i was inspired by . thank you USCG https://youtu.be/d7BQXXRLiac
 

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Looking good.

Have you thought about a reverse gate? I see that your pump has the trim system. The 800 pump is very similar to the XL1200 pump. The XL1200 has reverse, but no trim, because its design uses a reverse gate that's mounted to the steering nozzle, so, it can't have both.

For instance, on my boat, If I wanted a trim system, I'd have to switch to a GP1200 nozzle, then bore out the fittings on the sides of my pump, and install the trim ring system between the thrust nozzle and the steering nozzle.

But then I'd have no reverse, unless I used the type that bolts to the boat itself, like a sea-doo design, or the newer yamaha designs. So, I'll stick with having reverse and having to deal with a fixed trim system. I use a +5 degree nozzle, and then a slight bend on the last inch of my ride plate, to eliminate high speed porpoising.

So, as your nozzle has trim, but no reverse, if you wanted a reverse system, you'd have to use the sea-doo type. A little bit of a PITA, but reverse is a nice thing to have on any boat, so, it would be well worth looking into.

Definitely looks like you're getting there, though, the engine and drive system is the biggest task of doing one of these boats. The rest is just cables, hoses and wires.
 
scubapro820 said:
this is how i lost my side corner windows , @ 30 seconds also the design i was inspired by . thank you USCG https://youtu.be/d7BQXXRLiac

Impressive dive! Looks about like the conditions you'd encounter at the mouth of an inlet going into the ocean. I've been through a few inlets like this, and nearly did a dive like that one time, except, it was in a johnboat...not exactly the type of boat to be doing that with :shock:

Of course, when I was a kid, I was also crazy enough to jump breakers in the ocean with johnboats, running them like jet skis, catching some serious air. (And I wonder why my lower back is screwed up? LOL)
 
I know I'm.so.excited to.drive it I have walkers stop by and ask all.sorts of.questions they are so curious about it like how fast it is stuff I want to know as fas as reverse goes I have a shallow hull and I.know I'd.swamp my boats very short and I have a paddle lol I hope.to take it out next week when my cable arrives
 
Yeah the dive scared the crap out of me lol it was on a wake from a river barge then multiplied in size by a wing dam
 
I got the exhaust and throttle done Maiden voyage this sunday if all goes well just the waiting on the steering cable now!!!!!
 

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Nice! =D> I see you routed the exhaust through the jet tunnel box....that's the best method for toning down the noise.

You can also tone it down some more by making some rubber skirting that will fit in this box, coped out to fit around the jet pump nozzle.

Check out 'Part 4' Of 'American Jetboat High Output' to see an example of what I'm talking about, you can see how I did it on my boat. This is basically how Yamaha does their new 4 stroke skis, and it definitely makes a difference.
 
Yeah I do want quite I think I'm gonna make a inline ball valve and fitting to run the boat out of the water for tuning so I can use. The garden hose for cooling
 
scubapro820 said:
Yeah I do want quite I think I'm gonna make a inline ball valve and fitting to run the boat out of the water for tuning so I can use. The garden hose for cooling

Not sure I follow you on that. Do you mean a hose connector so you can hook the boat to the garden hose for flushing/running out of the water? If so, all you need to do for that is have the 3/4" internally threaded fitting like Tigershark uses for the water outlet on the side of the ski, then a short adapter hose that goes from female garden hose threads on one end, to male 3/4" threads to screw into that outlet. (I'm thinking they're 3/4"...unless it's some fruity metric BS) Then get a shut-off valve for the end of the water hose.

This method of flushing (running water into the outlet) gives a reverse flow, which is actually quite useful for dislodging any type of sand or debris in the cooling system. Doing a reverse flow flush, the water will back-flow, through the fitting on your jet pump, and some of it will also flow through your waterbox....again, useful for flushing out any debris.

I had a ball valve inline on my Tigershark, it was between the jet pump and the engine. This allowed me to hook the garden hose to the engine of my jetboat and flush it out while it was in the salt water...as the valve stops the flow of water from the jet pump. Then, after flushing, shut the engine down, and open the ball valve back up.

BUT.....there is too much risk of forgetting to open the ball valve after flushing, then, the next time you crank up, you run hot. I did it a couple of times with the TS engine.

So, when I put the High Output in there, I didn't bother with the ball valve.....just an inline water strainer to catch trash, the same one I used on the TS engine.

That's one thing I WOULD recommend very strongly. (Strainer) That, and an outboard water pressure gauge, so you can instantly see if there's an issue with the cooling system, like a clog from trash.

But as far as trying to shut off the salt water flow from my jet pump, I figured out that if you only operate the engine at low RPM while flushing it in the water, the pump doesn't generate enough PSI to over-ride the garden hose pressure, so, no salt water goes into the engine. I tested it by checking a water sample flowing out of the discharge fitting from the engine, checked it with a salinity meter, definitely fresh water.

And since putting the HO engine in the boat last year, I don't leave it in the salt water as much, at least not more than a few days at a time. With the TS, I would leave it in for a few weeks at a time. But in both cases, I make sure that I have good, working zinc anodes on my boat, as well as good bottom paint. Very important in saltwater.
 
Yea that's what I meant ill skip the ball blvalve I actually have a strainer inline it came with the donor ski its wise to keep it clear of sediment for cleaning how much water pressure do you get ? Also how fast was h/o with the ts1000
 
scubapro820 said:
Yea that's what I meant ill skip the ball blvalve I actually have a strainer inline it came with the donor ski

That's basically the strainer I have....mine is made by Jabsco, I think, but it's about the same as the factory strainer used in the TS jet skis.



its wise to keep it clear of sediment for cleaning

While I criticize some of the faults with the design of the TS engines.....that's one thing Tigershark definitely got right, putting a strainer on the water inlet line. You don't see that on Yamaha or other brands of PWC's. And as anyone who has ever operated a jet ski through debris-laden water knows....they are vacuum cleaners, and have the tendency to chop things up, into fine particles that are bad for clogging the cooling system. And since the prop is what feeds the cooling system, unlike an outboard motor, a jet ski engine can clog twice as fast.



how much water pressure do you get ?

With my engine turning 7 grand, (which is actually about 5 grand at the prop, due to a 1.47:1 reduction gear system used on the HO engine)....I'm getting about 7-8 PSI according to my gauge.

When I wind out to WOT at 10 grand, (which is about 6,900 RPM at the prop) I'm getting around 12-14 PSI.

The gauge DOES indeed work, because this past winter, I ran across a sandbar (which I barely cleared) and I saw the roostertail of mud and sand, then I saw the PSI on the gauge instantly drop, so, I shut 'er down, and checked my strainer....sure enough, it was jammed with mud. (to clear it, you remove the cap and screen, then turn the engine over and give it a quick shot of throttle and shut the engine down) But the point is, I was able to immediately detect the problem and shut down BEFORE overheating.

After seeing how effective the gauge was at preventing an overheat, I put one on my Triton, for my 50 Merc.





Also how fast was h/o with the ts1000


I get about 45 MPH with the HO. I got about 37 with the TS1000.
 
I'm not much of a shallow runner but I might get into some muddy stuff a time or.two so I will keep a close eye on the filter till I get a gauge. I wonder how.fast mine will go it is only 14 ft and about 550lbs curb weight also got my steering installed tonight! :LOL2:
 

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scubapro820 said:
I'm not much of a shallow runner but I might get into some muddy stuff a time or.two so I will keep a close eye on the filter till I get a gauge. I wonder how.fast mine will go it is only 14 ft and about 550lbs curb weight also got my steering installed tonight! :LOL2:



You don't have to be a shallow runner to plug up the cooling system. In the fall, and spring, when there are a lot of leaves on the surface of the water, just running across that will foul your impeller, intake duct, or the cooling system. Just keep an eye on the indicator stream until you get your gauge.

I'm thinking your top speed should be between 40-45 MPH, maybe a little more. It's a hard thing to predict, it's dependent upon the surface area of the boat, and its relative drag in the water.

Steering looks great...and it looks like you didn't have to do a set-back or an extension from the bulkhead to get the right amount of throw. Either you got lucky, or you measured that ahead of time, while you were installing the pump, etc.

Looks like you're just about ready for the water! Keep us posted. 8)
 
I never even considered foliage in the fall! The steering cable working that way was a total accident I wish I could say it was planned but I saw the cable for the first time in my life yesterday. I am so excited for the water my goal was to have it completed by May 1st all I have left is fueling and some last minute water tightening and a final once over.
 
scubapro820 said:
I never even considered foliage in the fall!


Not sure how bad it is where you live, but here, the cypress trees drop a lot of foliage, and it can get bad enough to clog the intake grate for the jet pump (which is where the stomp grate comes in handy)

If you decide to build a stomp grate, check out my aluma-jet thread for some photos and ideas on how to do it, since the pump you're using is very similar to mine.


The steering cable working that way was a total accident I wish I could say it was planned but I saw the cable for the first time in my life yesterday.


LOL, well, looks like it worked out perfect. Your luck is better than mine.

I didn't have a cable to reference when I did mine, nor did I take that into consideration....so, I had to do a set-back on mine to get the travel of the cable to match up with the travel of the nozzle.




I am so excited for the water my goal was to have it completed by May 1st all I have left is fueling and some last minute water tightening and a final once over.

Believe me, I know the feeling! The anticipation will about drive you crazy. But I think you're going to be pleased with the outcome of the project once you get 'er done. Nice work!
 
i just f'ed up really bad i think! i started the hose and had the boat on a reverse incline and the motor filled with water i pulled the plugs and ran it till no water blew out and it looked like water was dripping out of.the crankcase on the bottom a few inches from the stator and crank.side ends
 
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