Added PVC DIY Slick--strips to my bunks today. Under $15.00

[richg99]

For as long as I can remember, I have added some sort of plastic strips onto my bunks.

Even when I had fiberglass boats, I felt that the ease of launching, and, more importantly, recovery with slippery bunks was a great asset. In the past, I used PVC boards from Lowes/Home Depot and earlier, PVC lattice cut into strips and also once used just the diagonal pattern. Each of these installations called for countersinking stainless steel screws.

While looking for PVC post covers, as suggested on this site, I stumbled on ten foot 3x4 PVC gutter downspouts at Lowes/Home Depot. Less than $12.00 each, and only ONE required, I was very happy,

This morning I dropped my boat into a nearby slip. I then had full access to the trailer. The PVC gutters, having been cut in half longitudinally, fit right on top of my carpeted bunks. I added ten screws from the sides....with no countersinking required.

When it came time to recover the boat, she slid right up the new shiny PVC ramps with ease.

regards, richg99

 

[sunshine]

 

[TNtroller]

Looks good. Does the pvc get scratched or gouged from the hull moving on/off or from being towed, and then does the dirt grind into the paint on the hull??

 

[richg99]

The PVC is softer than the aluminum. So, barring something getting between the PVC and the bottom of the hull, there shouldn't be any extra wear and tear on the hull itself.

The bunk's carpeting had a larger possibility of stones or grit getting stuck in between the bunk and the hull.

What I don't know is, how long the PVC material will hold up. My past experiments have outlasted me, but that material was thicker than the material that makes up these gutter downspouts.

I am considering going back and adding additional screws with washers. I should be able to do that even with the boat on the trailer.

richg99

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

Have you ever tried composite fence rail covers or post covers?
I'm thinking about using them but looking for someone that has tried both composite and PVC and their opinions.

 

[richg99]

I used composite covers on a boat once. I sold it a year later. They were still intact then, however, my impression was that they were wearing quicker than PVC would have. The ends looked like they were being water-soaked.

Don't really know, since I no longer have that boat. Heck, I don't even remember what boat that was. Too many boats, not enough time.

richg99

 

[richg99]

The longest lasting "slick" experiment material was the PVC lattice strips and diagonal pieces. That material was twice as thick as the gutter downspouts.

I had to countersink the stainless screws. I then worried, often, that the screws would work their way back up. That would have wrecked havoc with my fiberglass hull.

Had I removed the SS screws, I would then have replaced them with SS bolts and locknuts.

Never did it. The lattice was still on the boat when I sold it, about 7 years after installation.

I like the idea on this install that the screws go in from the sides. NO chance of them screwing up my hull if they were to back out.

We shall see....

richg99

 

[Scott85]

I'm going to do something like this but I think I'm going to go with a cutting board from Walmart cut into strips.


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[richg99]

Walmart cutting boards....one of my favorite building materials. They come, as you no doubt know, in two or three thicknesses.

Only negative thing that I found is that the outer edges are raised, so you have to cut that away to get a truly flat piece.

Still, the little ones are only $1.50 or so. I have half-dozen in the shop that I got for $0.88 when they closed one of my WalMarts down last month.

richg99

 

[fishmonger]

"I like the idea on this install that the screws go in from the sides. NO chance of them screwing up my hull if they were to back out".

Using plain fir bunks it's likely that the countersunk screws would loosen up eventually. Screws on the side give some invaluable piece of mind.

 

[richg99]

Yep. I always worried that someday I'd look down at the empty trailer bunks....and see a couple of screw heads sticking up.

Next, I'd lean over and look at my scratched hull. Not a good thing. Especially if that scratch penetrated the gel coat on the fiberglass, or severely scarred an aluminum hull.

I am hoping that this install works out well.

richg99

 

[fishmonger]

Even if they only last a season or two at that price who cares. This is a great idea.

 

[Ebug]

Another awesome idea and execution Rich.

Rob

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[juggernot]

Nice mod. and cheap enough that they can simply be replaced if they get worn down. Before I opened the thread I thought you were talking about using 1x4" PVC boards.

 

[surfman]

Good job!

 

[richg99]

On the trailer that this one replaced, I used 1x2 PVC boards. Those bunks were installed vertically. The PVC worked well, but raised the boat 3/4 of an inch. Only had them on for one season. They held up well. richg99

 

[riverbud55]

Rich thats one slick idea,,,no pun intended :lol:,,,, luv slick bunks, my north river came with 1/4''uhmw riveted to bent alum channels,,, when I built my trailer for my g3 I used ''trek wood''/composite wood for slick bunks, they work great,,but for for existing wood bunks your idea would work great ,,,,, thanks for sharing :wink:

 

[richg99]

Thanks, I actually looked for some Trex wood but no one stocked it locally.

richg99

 

[wlfman40]

This is a great idea, I was actually getting prepared to have to re-carpet my bunks, but this will save a lot of time, effort, and expense plus a desired after effect of easier launches and retrievals. Thanks!! =D>

 

[richg99]

I added a post. The one thing I noticed was when I pulled the boat back on the bunks, it slid back off. No problem. I just left the engine running until I latched the strap.

richg99