Advice for removing pour foam with wire wheel

[wmk0002]

Slowly been tackling my first foam removal project here and there. Thus far I have experimented with a hammer, flat fry bar, drywall knife, oscillating tool with cutting blade, and a wire cup on a drill. I've found that all seem to have their uses depending on the access available and prying points, however, last night I tried the wire cup for the first time and it was easily the most efficient when paired with a shop vac. The only issue is that the wire cup chucked up in a drill is a little awkward to use and has limited access. Any other similar methods involving a wire wheel/cup yall would recommend for better access? I have an angle grinder I could use and I could buy a cheap Harbor Freight die grinder too. Seems like both would help get in tighter spaces. What kind of wire attachment would best pair with them?

 

[MrGiggles]

I imagine a cup brush in a grinder would make pretty short work of it, I've always found the stranded type to not last very long and they fling little wires everywhere. The knotted style holds up better, but can be pretty tough on aluminum if you aren't careful.

 

[wmk0002]

I imagine a cup brush in a grinder would make pretty short work of it, I've always found the stranded type to not last very long and they fling little wires everywhere. The knotted style holds up better, but can be pretty tough on aluminum if you aren't careful.

Yeah the knotted type is really aggressive but would probably plow through it. I think once I near the hull I can swap back to the oscillating tool with the scrapper blade.

I may reverse engineer my decision and go look at the different attachments at Harbor Freight or somewhere and choose the tool based on what the best looking option fits. I have about talked myself into getting a cordless die grinder too. I have the 24V Kobalt tools, and their die grinder looks very useful. Basically a little beefier Dremel but also cordless.

 

[airshot]

Acetone will dissolve it almost instantly, but it can leave a gooey mess. Which mess do you prefer ?

 

[thill]

I have removed a lot of foam. The best tool I have found is a long, flexible cake knife, the one with the tiny serrations, like a Ginsu knife. Cuts it like butter and doesn't make a mess. Then, a flexible drywall knife will pop the rest out. It goes so fast, I don't even remember the process once done. Slice, pop, scrape and move on.

I normally don't worry about the residue on the sides of the cavity, as it will be getting new foam soon enough, but I can see a wire wheel being an excellent tool for that. The trick to not having wire stuck in you is to not bear down on it, just run it across the surface lightly, letting the sharp wire do all the work.

 

[wmk0002]

Acetone will dissolve it almost instantly, but it can leave a gooey mess. Which mess do you prefer ?

Yeah that sounds messy. I'll probably save any chemical removal for the very end...if I even care to get it all off at that point.

 

[wmk0002]

I have removed a lot of foam. The best tool I have found is a long, flexible cake knife, the one with the tiny serrations, like a Ginsu knife. Cuts it like butter and doesn't make a mess. Then, a flexible drywall knife will pop the rest out. It goes so fast, I don't even remember the process once done. Slice, pop, scrape and move on.

I normally don't worry about the residue on the sides of the cavity, as it will be getting new foam soon enough, but I can see a wire wheel being an excellent tool for that. The trick to not having wire stuck in you is to not bear down on it, just run it across the surface lightly, letting the sharp wire do all the work.

I'm torn between replacing the foam or making storage. I've always been an advocate of foam but seeing first hand how much was waterlogged, I'm starting to see the negative aspects.

Thus far trying all the different removal methods has actually been enjoyable. Oddly satisfying in a way.

 

[thill]

In the past, I've done something for floatation that I personally like, rather than skip it... I use 2 liter and gallon bottles with the caps tightly screwed on, along with fill-foam from a can.

I fill the area with capped bottles and shots of fill foam around and between them to lock them into place. I am careful to not add too much so that it never needs to be cut or trimmed.

This works extremely well, will drain if water gets in the cavity, is actually lighter than solid foam and I've had ZERO issues with water absorption.

A little trick I thought I would share again.

 

[wmk0002]

In the past, I've done something for floatation that I personally like, rather than skip it... I use 2 liter and gallon bottles with the caps tightly screwed on, along with fill-foam from a can.

I fill the area with capped bottles and shots of fill foam around and between them to lock them into place. I am careful to not add too much so that it never needs to be cut or trimmed.

This works extremely well, will drain if water gets in the cavity, is actually lighter than solid foam and I've had ZERO issues with water absorption.

A little trick I thought I would share again.

Interesting method. This foam is structural in terms of supporting the really thin aluminum back deck between the angle framing so no matter what I do, if I don't replace with pour foam I will have to beef it up someway. I have a thread in the boat build forum - guess I need to update it and add some new pics.

 

[thill]

Thank you for mentioning that! Discretion is needed.

Yes, the foam is structural in certain boats and in certain places. Especially in newer, thinner-skinned boats. In those places, pour foam is required. In places where there had been no foam, I like to use stacked sheet foam along with fill-foam to lock it in place. You really don't want it moving around in there if possible.

Thanks for that reminder.