typed by ben
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thats scooting for an electric!
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ALUMACRAFT1448MV Elec. Reservoir Boat COMPLETE OVERHAUL!!!
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Ranchero50
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I would do something unique, like set your rear motors up for remote steering and throttle. Then just extend the motor wiring and steering mechanism to the transom. I guess it would depend on whether you motors have reducer coils in the motor housing for lower speeds or SCR controlling and just a single pair of wires going into the motors. You could put your speed controls (from the motors) amidships on the rear of your front deck and use a longer steering arm so you can steer it off the front.
Personally I'd just stretch it a bit and install a Seadoo jet drive.
Personally I'd just stretch it a bit and install a Seadoo jet drive.
lefty
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Ranchero--- if you look closely at a few posts prior... I've already switched out the motors to a 9.9hp electric outboard.-- "Torqeedo". With the stick steer controls mounted up front. I fish all electric lakes so this boat will stay electric only. So no Jet for me
Ranchero50
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I saw it, just didn't realize what it is.
My Seadoo build started out as an Alumacraft 1448MV.
My Seadoo build started out as an Alumacraft 1448MV.
lefty
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Updated pics of the interior/storage. Rod storage. Used fiberglass sheets for dividers between compartments. Rod locker will hold an 8 ft rod easy b there are about 13 in there now. Could probably fit a few more.
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Fishfreek
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Awesome job I love all that deck space.
JET4
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very nice build
lefty
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So To make a long story short. I gutted the boat. I didn't like a few little things, and I have been half ass modifying it the past few years and it seemed like there was always something that wasn't quite right.
The livewell extended into the rod locker. I didn't have access to the opposite side of the livewell where the old bench seat was. I just kinda cut one side out for the livewell.
The back hood for the battery hatch I kinda modified on a whim and I really didn't like the wasted space.
The final straw, I had a chaffed wire that controls the Electric outboard somewhere underneath all this mess.
So I ripped it all out.
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The livewell extended into the rod locker. I didn't have access to the opposite side of the livewell where the old bench seat was. I just kinda cut one side out for the livewell.
The back hood for the battery hatch I kinda modified on a whim and I really didn't like the wasted space.
The final straw, I had a chaffed wire that controls the Electric outboard somewhere underneath all this mess.
So I ripped it all out.
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lefty
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The ribs aren't attached to the boat but rather pressure forced against the bottom. The pictures before are from when I was mocking it up.
Today I began on removing the rear bench and more framing. I finished framing for the front deck installed the Ezy glide stick steer again and mounted the control box to the frame.
My previous build I had to route the cable in an odd way which put excessive tension on it making it a little hard to steer.
With gutting the decks I can now run it straight back and free up an additional 8-10" of cable.
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Today I began on removing the rear bench and more framing. I finished framing for the front deck installed the Ezy glide stick steer again and mounted the control box to the frame.
My previous build I had to route the cable in an odd way which put excessive tension on it making it a little hard to steer.
With gutting the decks I can now run it straight back and free up an additional 8-10" of cable.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
lefty
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Started framing the back deck. And more pictures of the rest of the framing I forgot to mention.
The new design brings the deck 2" higher through the middle and back of the boat.
Might not seem like much but I didn't have a lot of clearance overtop the battery terminals.
Also the livewell was siting directly on the bottom of the boat. I plan to raise it up a few inches and modify the livewell box completely to reduce it to 19-20 gallons as opposed to the factory 33 gallons.
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The new design brings the deck 2" higher through the middle and back of the boat.
Might not seem like much but I didn't have a lot of clearance overtop the battery terminals.
Also the livewell was siting directly on the bottom of the boat. I plan to raise it up a few inches and modify the livewell box completely to reduce it to 19-20 gallons as opposed to the factory 33 gallons.
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lefty
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I invite constructive criticism please...
I am pretty handy with carpentry and pretty much anything working with my hands. I have tinkered with welding Stick and MIG but never TIG.
I have used all 3/16 rivers and 1/4 stainless bolts. The bolts are for main connections where I'm afraid a rivet may work loose or fail. No stainless connections to the boat itself though. All rivets and pressure fitting.
Im planning to use 1/6" x 1" tubing for my hatch lids.
Going to skin the decks with either thin sheet aluminum or again with some of the PVC sheeting. Haven't decided.
My problem is I'm not sure how to attach the carpet to the aluminum tubing if I wrap it around each hatch. Similar to the way bass boats do.
Previously I used staples into the PVC deck board and I noticed when I gutted everything that the staples were rusting.
Is tucking-glue and clamps the only way?
Also planning on running some sort of conduit pipe or small irrigation piping up the middle to run all of my wiring front to back so as not to have anymore nicks in the wires.
I ran them through the ribs before and the always clogged up with trash. Probably where the nick came from.
I am also going to plumb my livewell with 5/8" tubing/pipe. The pumps have 3/4" inlet but I think I can find a reducer at Lowes homedepot. Hopefully this will keep the pressure a little higher and give me better circulation. If this won't work someone please tell me.
I am pretty handy with carpentry and pretty much anything working with my hands. I have tinkered with welding Stick and MIG but never TIG.
I have used all 3/16 rivers and 1/4 stainless bolts. The bolts are for main connections where I'm afraid a rivet may work loose or fail. No stainless connections to the boat itself though. All rivets and pressure fitting.
Im planning to use 1/6" x 1" tubing for my hatch lids.
Going to skin the decks with either thin sheet aluminum or again with some of the PVC sheeting. Haven't decided.
My problem is I'm not sure how to attach the carpet to the aluminum tubing if I wrap it around each hatch. Similar to the way bass boats do.
Previously I used staples into the PVC deck board and I noticed when I gutted everything that the staples were rusting.
Is tucking-glue and clamps the only way?
Also planning on running some sort of conduit pipe or small irrigation piping up the middle to run all of my wiring front to back so as not to have anymore nicks in the wires.
I ran them through the ribs before and the always clogged up with trash. Probably where the nick came from.
I am also going to plumb my livewell with 5/8" tubing/pipe. The pumps have 3/4" inlet but I think I can find a reducer at Lowes homedepot. Hopefully this will keep the pressure a little higher and give me better circulation. If this won't work someone please tell me.
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