Blink's 1973 AMF Crestliner 12' V-Hull (Update 05-05-12)

[blink]

So the old bench height is 1.5" taller than the new deck height, the seats are going to end up being 3.5" higher ride height than the old seats. The cool thing about these seats though is that i can just cut the aluminum post down for a lower ride height if it feels unstable.

 

[blink]

I got a good bit of work done today.
I got to thinking about how i want to do my hatches today, and figured out i need some more framing....

I decided to just use a piece of 5/4 decking to redo the transom. It lasted pretty long in there without any sealing from whenever it was last replaced.

Test fit, with my beautiful girlfriend gardening in the background.

My little helpers....

I got the rear deck cut and test fit. i marked the hatch openings underneath. I added 3/4" around 3 sides of each.

Cut out the hatches and the inset for the seat mount. I went to the inside of my line for the hatch, and then went to the outside of the line on my holes.

 

[blink]

My dad has a nice little 16' Nitro and the hatch pulls are straps with loops at the end.
Has anyone done this here?
Does anyone know where i would go to get something like this?

 

[UtahBassKicker]

Not sure if I'm thinking the same thing but I used a an older tie down strap. I cut it in 7-8" sections, doubled it over and screwed the loose ends to the bottom of my latch doors, creating a small loop to use a pull to open the hatch.

 

[blink]

Not sure if I'm thinking the same thing but I used a an older tie down strap. I cut it in 7-8" sections, doubled it over and screwed the loose ends to the bottom of my latch doors, creating a small loop to use a pull to open the hatch.

I was thinking something similar.
Maybe burning the ends of the strap and grommetting them together, screwing through the grommet into the bottom of the latch doors.

 

[Johny25]

I did the same thing with my hatches. I bought some heavy duty thick ratchet strap material, folded them over to make a loop, melted the ends and stapled them in under the hatches. Works great

 

[blink]

Sweet! That sounds like a plan!

 

[Johny25]

Hey blink the project looks to be coming along great I removed that pic I posted once you saw it out of respect for your thread

 

[Brine]

First time seeing your build blink. It's looking good.

Curious what you used to fasten the joist hangers. Make sure it's stainless hardware so it doesn't cause you any corrosion issues. Also, if some of the holes will be below the waterline, you may want to put some 5200 on them if you haven't already.

Any plans for the trailer? It looks like the boat could move back a foot and have the bunks still catch the transom. That would make loading/unloading that much easier by not having to back down the ramp so far, and it looks like the bow roller may be setup to help you better.

I like the idea of leaving a space in the middle low. I decided the same and am glad I did.

 

[blink]

First time seeing your build blink. It's looking good.

Curious what you used to fasten the joist hangers. Make sure it's stainless hardware so it doesn't cause you any corrosion issues. Also, if some of the holes will be below the waterline, you may want to put some 5200 on them if you haven't already.

Any plans for the trailer? It looks like the boat could move back a foot and have the bunks still catch the transom. That would make loading/unloading that much easier by not having to back down the ramp so far, and it looks like the bow roller may be setup to help you better.

I like the idea of leaving a space in the middle low. I decided the same and am glad I did.

Brine, thanks for the tips.
I used aluminum 3/16" rivets to attach the joist hangers, but i put clear silicone in the holes for leakage and behind the joist hanger to act as an isolator. The thing about dissimilar metals though is that even stainless and aluminum will make a battery.
That got me thinking about where else i have conditions like this. The lags for my seat supports are SS, and the splate is aluminum. the piano hinges are aluminum, screws are stainless. i will use the silicone liberally for these conditions.

I just looked up 3M 5200 and i will grab some of that. I have been using 100% silicone, which is an amazing sealant and adhesive as well.

I do plan to work on the trailer. It needs paint, badly.
I like your idea. i could just move the bow roller and the rope crank back a foot or so.

 

[bassboy1]

I used aluminum 3/16" rivets to attach the joist hangers, but i put clear silicone in the holes for leakage and behind the joist hanger to act as an isolator. The thing about dissimilar metals though is that even stainless and aluminum will make a battery.

Yes, stainless and aluminum isn't ideal, but still an acceptable combination. However, zinc (galvanized joist hangers, for one) and aluminum is bad news. Be sure you isolate them well.

 

[blink]

I used aluminum 3/16" rivets to attach the joist hangers, but i put clear silicone in the holes for leakage and behind the joist hanger to act as an isolator. The thing about dissimilar metals though is that even stainless and aluminum will make a battery.

Yes, stainless and aluminum isn't ideal, but still an acceptable combination. However, zinc (galvanized joist hangers, for one) and aluminum is bad news. Be sure you isolate them well.

i think a few coats of old paint and a layer of silicone ought to be good enough, right?

 

[bassboy1]

The short answer is that you're probably going to be alright, as the boat is a freshwater trailer maiden.

The long answer is that even with paint and silicone, you aren't isolated, as the rivet electrically connects everything, eliminating the isolation. That being said, in this case, the rivet is going to be the weak link, so if a problem should arise, the rivet is going to be the item that corrodes before the boat hull starts to show an issue.

 

[Brine]

Sounds like you're good. Thought I'd mention it though before you got any deeper into the build and there was a problem. I've seen guys use a piece of rubber mat as an insulator in the past.

Also, when you go to use the 5200, make sure to have a rag nearby! :LOL2:

 

[blink]

I got to do a little bit of work on her this afternoon.
I got the front deck cut, and the hatches cut.

 

[blink]

Carpet.

I have never done carpet, but plan to with my build.
Do i carpet my deck after its screwed down or before?
I assume i do it after its screwed down.
I use contact cement???

i guess i will lay the sheet over the whole deck, tuck the edges, etc....

Is there a tutorial on the site for this? I searched but could not find one.

 

[Johny25]

I carpeted my boat with all the wood off the boat. One of the most important things to get carpet with no wrinkles is heat. Get the carpet as warm as you can. I did mine in my heated shop and had it at 80 plus degrees until the carpet glue dried. The reason is that the carpet will expand greatly when heated, and it will expand in the sun when you have your boat in the water. I did a lot of research when I carpeted my boat and finally decided on premium outdoor carpet adhesive and also I bought seam sealer which dries in about 10-15 minutes for the edges and small stuff.

If you want your boat to look good you will take this step serious. I have seen mods on here that could have looked great if they would have taken their time and carpeted it correctly. Get a glue carpet trawl so you can lay the glue down fast, easily, and evenly. Mske sure your glue is warm also. Get lots of razor blades for cutting and change them often, a dull blade can mess up your carpet job when cutting. I would change my blades or flip them over every 2 or 3 long cuts. Carpet knife would probably work great also but I used a nice box cutter knife. And get yourself a good staple gun with like 5/8" staples to staple it underneath when pulled tight. I also had a spare piece of clean plywood to lay my carpeted pieces on face down and put weights on them overnight (tool boxes, blocks etc...) You are going to get glue on yourself for sure so have plenty of cleaning wipes ready.

Have all your stuff out and ready before laying the glue down. I rolled out the carpet face down on a clean flat surface. I had the carpet really warm remember, and pulled tight. Then put the glue on the pieces and flip them over onto the carpet. Cut out around the pieces AT LEAST 2 inches larger than the piece all around. Make sure you give yourself plenty to work with, you can cut more off later. Then I pulled it tight as I could by hand as I stapled it to the backside and worked my way around the piece. Don't be shy with staples either, you can pull them out later.

My advice is to get a practice piece that is oddly shaped and practice on it for starters. And that is my 2 cents lol.... good luck

 

[Johny25]

Oh another thing I did. I had all my holes pre drilled to screw my floor down. And after the glue dried and I was ready to install I pushed toothpicks threw the backside of each hole so the were sticking up threw the carpet when I laid it in the boat. Then I went around with my STAINLESS steel screws and pulled each toothpick one at a time and put a screw in. Screws are all hidden because they pull down in the carpet.

 

[blink]

Oh another thing I did. I had all my holes pre drilled to screw my floor down. And after the glue dried and I was ready to install I pushed toothpicks threw the backside of each hole so the were sticking up threw the carpet when I laid it in the boat. Then I went around with my STAINLESS steel screws and pulled each toothpick one at a time and put a screw in. Screws are all hidden because they pull down in the carpet.

Awesome! That solved the issues rolling around in my headspace!

 

[blink]

I got a little bit of work done today.
Bow mount trolling motor platform (i hope to get one this spring sometime)

I ran out of plywood so for the top i used a piece of 1/2" MDO that i use for my business (Signage)

Moved the boat back about a foot on the trailer (Thanks Brine) and adjusted the pully and bow catch back to meet.
The boat sits so much more level. i dig it.
I do plan to paint the trailer and replace the runners and redo the wiring.