Boat Plowing at full throttle

[5boats-later]

also here is a pic of the ok jon! Painting it now figured ill make a homemade skiff. My wife loves riding in the boat so I guess ill paint her up make her look some what pretty haha! Anyway let me know if y'all think a car jack would work. Looked this morning and the hook is in the middle of the boat very flexible! Thank again

 

[surfman]

Holy cow of course it is plowing, not only do you have the motor mounted in the upper most trimmed position but, you also have a piece of plywood adding even more tilt to the motor. Notice that the transom has an angle to it. That piece of plywood has got to go all the way up or just go all together.

You are using the last hole, not the first, by the way. The first hole is all the way down.

It is okay to mount the engine a little high but, too high will cause the prop to ventilate, I would also try the second hole from the transom, after I got rid of that plywood.

 

[Led_Junkie]

surfman » 06 Aug 2013, 06:19[/url]"]Holy cow of course it is plowing, not only do you have the motor mounted in the upper most trimmed position but, you also have a piece of plywood adding even more tilt to the motor. Notice that the transom has an angle to it. That piece of plywood has got to go all the way up or just go all together.

You are using the last hole, not the first, by the way. The first hole is all the way down.

It is okay to mount the engine a little high but, too high will cause the prop to ventilate, I would also try the second hole from the transom, after I got rid of that plywood.

I'll try that too. I was just adding the plywood back the way it was. As one can see I don't know much about motorboats.

I was using the 1st hole, although last outing I used the 2nd. The photo just shows the motor after being transported, I kick the motor back so it doesn't bounce on the ground when trailering. I need to cross several railroad crossings so I need some clearance. I tilt the motor back and move the pin up to clear the ground..

Once I added the plywood to the top of the transom, the degree of the transom is the same just being thicker, correct? no more so than if I use 3" angle to fabricate a jack plate. The offense was not bringing the plywood up all the way to the top, correct? Giving an uneven clamping position thus building in a degree of tilt that was condusive to the plowing.

Thanks for the help I am just trying to figure this out. I didn't get to take pics last night. I'll post ASAP though.
Thanks everyone.

 

[FerrisBueller]

Yes definitely post a pic of the bottom of the hull and check for a hook, otherwise you're just playing a guessing game. If there's a hook, then that is a major contributor to your problem. Otherwise it's just a matter of messing with the motor and the weight distribution.

 

[WaterWaif]

Too, and you may have all ready gathered, In adjusting trim (angle) of motor in relation to transom,adjustment is based on top speed performance. I mean if plowing is the issue above 3/4 throttle,adjusting that out is goal. It is an interesting balance between bow rising at lower speed and it coming down at higher,with a surge wanting to poop transom on deceleration but that's trim! More time on your part and adjusting load and trim ,you,ll find the sweet spot. have fun with your craft!.

 

[surfman]

Yes adding the plywood all the way up is necessary, if that plywood has to be there. You were adding a bunch of extra tilt. As mentioned before, lower the motor and I would start with the second hole and then go up from there. I have mine on the top hole and I have a home made bracket that sets the motor back about 5 inches. Mine is on a john boat though, not a V.

 

[Led_Junkie]

WaterWaif » 06 Aug 2013, 11:10[/url]"]Too, and you may have all ready gathered, In adjusting trim (angle) of motor in relation to transom,adjustment is based on top speed performance. I mean if plowing is the issue above 3/4 throttle,adjusting that out is goal. It is an interesting balance between bow rising at lower speed and it coming down at higher,with a surge wanting to poop transom on deceleration but that's trim! More time on your part and adjusting load and trim ,you,ll find the sweet spot. have fun with your craft!.

I gotcha. I may never find nirvana, just a balance between ok and not so ok. I keep working on the balance deal everytime I go out. I'm moving my trolling motor to the front. That will help somewhat I needed to lengthen the wiring. I have really only have the gas tank (6gal), battery, tacklebox, poles, bait bucket, 2-12lb anchors one the bow, the other in the stern, Bucket of jugs, and my son and I, with an occational additional passenger. It is realitively full so I cannot imagine anything else.

I was planning on a casting deck forward level with the seats and using the space beneath as storage, but I dont know now. It may be too much weight forward. I see all these folks with the loaded decks with carpet on boats the same size, then think wow. Is that really stable? Or does the extra weight help balance?

 

[5boats-later]

So what y'all are saying is if there is a hook under boat messing with trim and lowering or lifting motor would not help top speed? My 15' has a slight hook but noticeable. Low end gets up and moving an then the boat lays down and cause the motor to want to turn. Motor sounds as if it is in a bind!

 

[FerrisBueller]

I see all these folks with the loaded decks with carpet on boats the same size, then think wow. Is that really stable? Or does the extra weight help balance?

It really depends on the set-up of the boat and how high the deck is. Yes, adding more weight can add to the stability, as long as the weight is in the right place. A deck build too high may just make it tippy.

 

[5boats-later]

Hey guys so I got the hook out of the boat and am gonna go run it tomorrow to see how she rides. With the hook in it the boat was touching the running board along side of the trailer and also touching the rollers down the middle. After getting the hook out the boat wouldn't even touch the runners so I had to drop the rollers down! Ill check back in with the outcome

 

[WaterWaif]

Led Junkie, sounds like you,ve got a better idea of options. One boat i run is 14 ft 25 hp e-rude. i stand on occasion when running part throttle to see over bow seat( neat trick one legged guy) when solo,and hull will try to "gallop" at high speed if much wave action so throttle gets eased back till smooth riding.. With daughter on bow seat boat is perfect at top speed on calm water.(She has g.p.s.d top speed there.) Each boat/motor combo needs trimmed to itself to prove its ability,adding weight has to have an effect,per craft and location and load.Most my weight on stern end.(Fuel,batts, outboard,2nd trolling motor. Side console is diagonal and opposite batts for a bit of balance.,if you are running a tiller thats like two outboards on rear, leaving bow light.) Once your transom is similar in geometry to original it would seem you would get better response to adjustments.

 

[Zum]

5boats-later ...
It's great that you managed to get the hook from your boat.
I bet more people would chime in on your progress if you started your own thread.
It's alittle confusing when theres more than one topic on a thread and people may want to see what you have done to get rid of the hook.

 

[marshman]

Led_Junkie » 06 Aug 2013, 12:33[/url]"]

WaterWaif » 06 Aug 2013, 11:10[/url]"]Too, and you may have all ready gathered, In adjusting trim (angle) of motor in relation to transom,adjustment is based on top speed performance. I mean if plowing is the issue above 3/4 throttle,adjusting that out is goal. It is an interesting balance between bow rising at lower speed and it coming down at higher,with a surge wanting to poop transom on deceleration but that's trim! More time on your part and adjusting load and trim ,you,ll find the sweet spot. have fun with your craft!.

I gotcha. I may never find nirvana, just a balance between ok and not so ok. I keep working on the balance deal everytime I go out. I'm moving my trolling motor to the front. That will help somewhat I needed to lengthen the wiring. I have really only have the gas tank (6gal), battery, tacklebox, poles, bait bucket, 2-12lb anchors one the bow, the other in the stern, Bucket of jugs, and my son and I, with an occational additional passenger. It is realitively full so I cannot imagine anything else.

I was planning on a casting deck forward level with the seats and using the space beneath as storage, but I dont know now. It may be too much weight forward. I see all these folks with the loaded decks with carpet on boats the same size, then think wow. Is that really stable? Or does the extra weight help balance?

i think i would focus on getting the boat to run right before id sink money in to it decking/converting it....

5boatslater...youre mixing things up on this post with a different boat...you should start a post dealing with your boat, and youll probably get better help...

hooks and bent/deformed/dented bottoms are detrimental to small low powered hulls...creates drag and will never perform right.... for a boat to paddle or troll or just putt putt around its fine...but to plane out and run around it really needs to have a good straight bottom...

think about driving an old car/truck down the highway with 4 bald tires and the alignment all out of wack, shaking and shimmying... yeah, you can drive it, but its just dumb....

 

[5boats-later]

Yeah new to this my apologies fellas! Good luck with your boat!!

 

[Led_Junkie]

WaterWaif » 06 Aug 2013, 17:07[/url]"]Led Junkie, sounds like you,ve got a better idea of options. One boat i run is 14 ft 25 hp e-rude. i stand on occasion when running part throttle to see over bow seat( neat trick one legged guy) when solo,and hull will try to "gallop" at high speed if much wave action so throttle gets eased back till smooth riding.. With daughter on bow seat boat is perfect at top speed on calm water.(She has g.p.s.d top speed there.) Each boat/motor combo needs trimmed to itself to prove its ability,adding weight has to have an effect,per craft and location and load.Most my weight on stern end.(Fuel,batts, outboard,2nd trolling motor. Side console is diagonal and opposite batts for a bit of balance.,if you are running a tiller thats like two outboards on rear, leaving bow light.) Once your transom is similar in geometry to original it would seem you would get better response to adjustments.

I appreciate the comments. It is a tiller steer so it is very stern heavy. I just purchased some wiring to move the battery forward and I may lengthen the gas line to move it forward as well.

I ran my hand underneath the stern end Saturday and felt a very noticable dent just before the turn up to the transome area. It seems like the boat was dropped pretty hard numerous times. The weekend was busy so nothing was done. I did manage to get it out and run it with the motor on the pin closest to the transom (1st?) and it made the bow ride real high until it planed. I moved my son forward to balance things but the plowing ensued until I backed off the throttle again.

I really need to find time to take the motor off, and flip the boat and really get an idea on what/s going on. Besides I still have to strip the paint, being 2-toned really isn't a good look.

The reason I am moving up to the deck is because I have the plywoood in my garage, so it wouldn't be any more layout of funds unless I decide to carpet it.

 

[Ranchero50]

Take some pictures of the boat and post them up. Motor angle on the stern, bottom of the hull, layout of your stuff. This thread is 2 pages of confusion so far.

Your outside stern wood should go to the top of the transom, you can just slide a spare piece in to test run it. Cavitation plate should be level with the bottom of the hull and parallel.

Some pics will help troubleshoot the other obvious stuff.