Cutting Trolling Motor Carbon Shaft

[FuzzyGrub]

Well, both of my Motorguide W45's are on the fritz. One has been "dead" for a while with bad control board. The other is experiencing motor problems. Maybe just needs new brushes, but didn't want to dig into that yet. Swapped the contol board over and that W45 is functional, but it has a 54" shaft and needs to be cut-down to 48".

It went easier than i thought. I used 1/2" copper pipe to protect the wires and some pvc pipe to guide the hacksaw. Mounted it horizontally in the vice with some rubber to not mar the shaft. Should be back on the boat this weekend.

 

[airshot]

Well, both of my Motorguide W45's are on the fritz. One has been "dead" for a while with bad control board. The other is experiencing motor problems. Maybe just needs new brushes, but didn't want to dig into that yet. Swapped the contol board over and that W45 is functional, but it has a 54" shaft and needs to be cut-down to 48".

It went easier than i thought. I used 1/2" copper pipe to protect the wires and some pvc pipe to guide the hacksaw. Mounted it horizontally in the vice with some rubber to not mar the shaft. Should be back on the boat this weekend.

Glad to see it worked out well for you, but curious as to why an extra 6" length would need to be cut off. I often wish I had an extra 6" when it gets choppy and the prop is grabbing air. You don't need to drop it all the way down......

 

[FuzzyGrub]

Glad to see it worked out well for you, but curious as to why an extra 6" length would need to be cut off. I often wish I had an extra 6" when it gets choppy and the prop is grabbing air. You don't need to drop it all the way down......

The 48" one was plenty long for this 1648. I normally run it with about a foot to spare. 54" is just too unwieldly. It was originally a river boat (no docks), but now it is a flat water boat that is. I have a "spacer" tiedown so the head doesn't bang the dock.