Derek's Tracker TX-17 rebuild

[Gators5220]

Man that sucker must fly!

 

[userspam]

Derek are the speakers for 5.25 or 6.5?

 

[Derek]

Derek are the speakers for 5.25 or 6.5?

The speakers are 6.5" however with the 3/4" floor I had to mount the speaker from the inside of the underseat compartment and the grills are a little off from center

 

[userspam]

thanks for the input. I finally got mine gutted and this weekends plan is to find the leak. I didnt get the rear ripped apart as you did but got the front. Any recommendations on type of brush and chemicals to use to clean up the mold inside the boat? and any recommendations one what to clean under the boat with before applying epoxy?

 

[Derek]

I just used purple power cleaner with a bit of bleach mixed in to clean out the inside.
The prep for the epoxy sucked. We sanded the entire boat and it took forever. Then I just cleaned it with acetone.

 

[userspam]

Any suggestions on flipping the the boat to repair cracks? I see you managed to pull it off.

 

[Derek]

I made lifting points that span multiple rafters in the garage. I lifted it off the trailer with straps (not the dinky ones) and hung it from the rafters in the garage. The straps were like slings so I was able flip the boat within them. First time I did it with 2 other guys. Second time I managed to do it myself with creative rigging and a chain hoist.
I do have this picture from the process.

 

[userspam]

Yeah I dont have the resources for this. How many guys would you estimate it would take me to lift off the trailer, flip onto a tarp and after repair flip and return to trailer?

Help is always appreciated!

 

[Derek]

Yeah I dont have the resources for this. How many guys would you estimate it would take me to lift off the trailer, flip onto a tarp and after repair flip and return to trailer?

Help is always appreciated!

Is it gutted? If gutted I would say 4 strong guys.

 

[userspam]

It's gutted but the frame is still in on the front and the console+seats are also still intact in the rear.

 

[Derek]

I'm ready to break out of hibernation, I can't wait to get the boat on the water. I went and did a couple things I had wanted to do last year and never got around to.

I moved my (2) group 31 batteries for the trolling motor up front. One got put back into the port side compartment in the rear of the front deck. The other I put in the starboard compartment in the front of the front deck. Rewired everything and installed the 50A breaker in port compartment. I moved the batteries forward to try to get better weight distribution. When I added the 24v trolling motor and went to 3 batteries in the back I had to add a hydrofoil to the motor. I hoping with this new distribution I can ditch the hydrofoil and get some of the lost speed back.

I also installed an auto float switch for the bilge pump. I wired it into the existing wiring so either the float or my dash switch will turn it on.

I can't believe how dirty I stored the boat. I vacuumed it out. The scum line is horrible, hopefully the Connecticut River will clean it off next weekend. haha I need only battery hold down straps and a new fuel tank fitting for next Saturday.

 

[userspam]

Any recommendations on the float switch? I am interested also.

 

[Derek]

I used a Rule brand switch that I picked up at BassPro. I didn't take any pictures, but I mounted it on the starboard side adjacent to the live well pump. Mount it with the hinge forward and float facing back. I used epoxy to mount the base to the bottom of the boat. I tapped power off my 50A breaker in the rear of the boat and installed a 10A inline fuse. Then I soldered it into the existing wiring for the bilge pump. If your still putting the boat together and do not already have a bilge I'd just get a bilge pump with the float built in.

 

[userspam]

Mines already in with a pump installed

 

[userspam]

My cabelas cover recently ripped. How is that cover from discountboatcover.com holding up?

Any recommendations?

 

[Derek]

My boat is stored inside during the winter so I do not have to worry about snow/ice. It does sit outside from April-November.
Cover has been great. It is a trailerable cover but I have only towed with it a couple times.
I park the boat in a dirt lot that creates a lot of dust. The cover is filthy and could use a wash. But it keeps the inside of the boat mostly dust free.
I don't keep a front fishing seat in the boat so I use fiberglass bows for pontoon boat covers. I think it is better for the cover, less edges to wear on. I still use a rear seat to hold the cover up but may replace that this year as it rarely gets used while fishing.

 

[Derek]

So I took the boat out yesterday to do some testing with/without the hydrofoil.
For reference 77 Johnson 70hp with 13.5x18 stainless Raker prop. It should have 5500 rpm @ WOT

- with hydrofoil: 32mph at 4700 rpm
- without hydrofoil: 35mph at 5100 rpm

Problem is the boat is still porpoises somewhat while I am by myself without the hydrofoil. That is with the (2) group 31 batteries moved forward. I can move my rear cranking battery (group 29) about a foot forward, but I'm not sure that will help much.

 

[Duckmagnet]

I have the same boat with the same stress cracks around the rivets. I was wondering if you ended up getting them welded? or if you just used the steel flex. And if so how is the steel flex holding up?
Thanks

 

[Derek]

I had them all welded up. I had a welding shop do it as I have no experience welding aluminum. They just tig'd around and over the rivets and along the cracks. The welding was nicely done. The steel flex is holding up well on the bottom of the boat. I do still get some leaking, but not enough to worry about. I think it is coming from the keel riveted down the middle

 

[Duckmagnet]

Thanks, I have been trying to figure out what I was gonna do with the cracks. I have been told several different things so I wanted to know what someone with the same issue did.