Extend Tongue Forward or Bunks Back?

[Lost But Happy]

Your winch post looks like it was already cut/customized by somebody and that extra cut in it could compromise the strength. It doesn't look like your boat is all that heavy so it probably isn't an issue but that post does not look like the original for the trailer to begin with. I'm not sure I would want to pull the boat that far forward since it's already a small trailer. With a more angled post you might be able to mount it behind the extension and keep the boat back farther. With your winch post you would probably need to have some extensions welded on each side to be able to fit around your wider tongue extension to keep the boat in the right place on the trailer.

I circled the spot on your post that looks cut and could be starting to crack along it.

The spot you circled is an optical illusion. I marked (with a blue sharpie) the spot where I would have had to cut the post for it to stretch around the angle iron. Thought better of cutting it so here we are. lol

The boat doesn't weigh much at all. I didn't have a chance to mock it up yesterday and today isn't looking much better. Hopefully tomorrow Ill be able to do it.

 

[Lost But Happy]

Finally got to work on the boat yesterday. Yeah, not good. Obviously Im going to have to move it back.



So I moved it back to where I think it should be. (please let me know if there is not enough overhang)



I now need to make up the difference on the bow side. About 22" total from winch post to where the bumper lands.



Ive been shopping around for a longer bow bumper + winch mount but the longest I found was 13". Im really trying not to modify or even buy a new winch post. Any ideas? Thank you!

 

[LDUBS]

I have a couple thoughts. Cut the bunks off about 1" past the transom. Add a safety chain from below the winch to the bow eye. That way you aren't relying only on that little spring in the winch lever to keep the bow secured. I can't offer any advice on how to make your existing winch post work wihout doing modifications.

 

[JL8Jeff]

Do you think the boat is still a little too far forward? I think I would want more of the stern back past the wheels/axle. If you push it back a little more, you might be able to mount your winch post on the other side of the extension area. The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks. You would need to redrill the holes where it bolts together and for the coupler, but that might be the easiest solution to give you flexibility with the winch post location. I've cut several trailers shorter and redrilled holes for the coupler so it's not hard.

 

[sonny.barile]

OK, this is blue sky seat-of-the-pants stuff on my part.

If I understand the issue, adding the 1/4" angle prevents you from putting the winch post where you want it.

Correct. But If I put the post just forward of the angle iron, the transom will be 6" forward from the edge of the rear of the trailer.

Would the transom being 6" forward of the edge of the trailer be a problem? That was my original question.

I should be able to mock everything up today and take pictures. I know they are worth 1000 words. lol

If the bunks go out past the transom you will have issues in the future with transom mounted transducers. You mentioned wanting a Helix 7 in my thread……

You mentioned not wanting to replace your winch……you may be able to find a post that fits your winch, although doesn’t allow for u-bolts because of the wider additional material, can be bolted down thru the tongue. Something like this…….

 

[Lost But Happy]

I did find this which appears like it will work...



Though $265 is a bit steep.

 

[Lost But Happy]

If the bunks go out past the transom you will have issues in the future with transom mounted transducers. You mentioned wanting a Helix 7 in my thread……

You mentioned not wanting to replace your winch……you may be able to find a post that fits your winch, although doesn’t allow for u-bolts because of the wider additional material, can be bolted down thru the tongue. Something like this…….


F8C500F8-8FF1-423E-B027-EE5FFB703C0B.png

It's the winch post would like to reuse. In lieu of that, I would probably have to get a post like you attached in your response.

I see your point about the transom mounted transducer, but from everything I have read, It is better to have the bunks out past the transom a bit to support said transom.

 

[LDUBS]

Do you think the boat is still a little too far forward? I think I would want more of the stern back past the wheels/axle. If you push it back a little more, you might be able to mount your winch post on the other side of the extension area. The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks. You would need to redrill the holes where it bolts together and for the coupler, but that might be the easiest solution to give you flexibility with the winch post location. I've cut several trailers shorter and redrilled holes for the coupler so it's not hard.

"The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks."

If this is practical it really resolves all the issues. Great idea JL8Jeff!.

 

[Lost But Happy]

Do you think the boat is still a little too far forward? I think I would want more of the stern back past the wheels/axle. If you push it back a little more, you might be able to mount your winch post on the other side of the extension area. The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks. You would need to redrill the holes where it bolts together and for the coupler, but that might be the easiest solution to give you flexibility with the winch post location. I've cut several trailers shorter and redrilled holes for the coupler so it's not hard.

"The other option might be to swap the tongue around completely so the extension area is under the bunks."

If this is practical it really resolves all the issues. Great idea JL8Jeff!.

To be honest with y'all, Im not envisioning how this would look.

 

[JL8Jeff]

I circled where your tongue bolts to the rest of the trailer frame. If you were to unbolt it, unbolt your coupler from the other end and then pull it out and put the coupler end where the frame is (swing it around 180 degrees), would that new extension (wider area) be far enough away from the frame mounts to not get in the way? You could drill new holes and bolt the extension end to the frame and then new holes for the coupler where the frame end used to be. It looks like your extension area would be really close to the top circle so you would definitely want to measure it first before doing anything. If this would work, you would need to pull your wiring through so tie some string to the wiring so you have string going through when you swap it around and then tie the wiring back to the string and pull it back through.

 

[Lost But Happy]

I circled where your tongue bolts to the rest of the trailer frame. If you were to unbolt it, unbolt your coupler from the other end and then pull it out and put the coupler end where the frame is (swing it around 180 degrees), would that new extension (wider area) be far enough away from the frame mounts to not get in the way? You could drill new holes and bolt the extension end to the frame and then new holes for the coupler where the frame end used to be. It looks like your extension area would be really close to the top circle so you would definitely want to measure it first before doing anything. If this would work, you would need to pull your wiring through so tie some string to the wiring so you have string going through when you swap it around and then tie the wiring back to the string and pull it back through.

DUH! lol

Now I see what you mean!! That could very well work!! I am definitely going measure and noodle on this one! Thank you!!!

 

[sonny.barile]

Brilliant! :idea:

 

[Lost But Happy]

Finally get er flipped around. Looks like it will work!!! A YUGE thank you to JL8Jeff!!!







I lined it up where the center of the tongue is in the center of the hole. I plan on clamping the front of the trailer and tongue and drill all the holes. Anything I should be looking for? I don't want to drill the holes wrong and the trailer not track straight.

Also, the extension added quite a bit of weight to the tongue, so I was thinking of using bigger sized bolts for the 3 places where the tongue is bolted to the trailer. Thoughts? Grade 8 and ny-lock nuts?

Thank you!

 

[sonny.barile]

Good ending to this story…………

I wouldn’t go with a larger diameter bolt where the center beam terminates at the cross bar. Yes the bolt itself will be stronger, but the web that remains (material around the hole) will be lesser. You leave too narrow a web from the hole to the edge of that channel and it will give…….

Where the two bent pieces come together on the center beam would be a good candidate for bigger bolts.

 

[LDUBS]

I sense much happiness in the force!

 

[Lost But Happy]

Good ending to this story…………

I wouldn’t go with a larger diameter bolt where the center beam terminates at the cross bar. Yes the bolt itself will be stronger, but the web that remains (material around the hole) will be lesser. You leave too narrow a web from the hole to the edge of that channel and it will give…….

Where the two bent pieces come together on the center beam would be a good candidate for bigger bolts.

Sounds good. Thank you Sonny!

Grade 8 you think? With nylon lock washers?

 

[Lost But Happy]

I sense much happiness in the force!

Indeed!!! :LOL2:

 

[lckstckn2smknbrls]

I would use grade 5 or 8 of the existing size and use nylocks nuts.

 

[Lost But Happy]

I would use grade 5 or 8 of the existing size and use nylocks nuts.

The existing ones do not have any markings on them. Would that make them grade 5?

I am a big fan of nylocks and a drop of blue loctite.

Only reason I am thinking of upgrading the bolt size is the extension I had installed added quite a bit of weight to the tongue. I figured changing it to grade 8 would be good practice.

 

[LDUBS]

For your application I would also think either grade 5 or 8 would be fine. Grade 5 should have 3 lines on the bolt head. Grade 8 has 6 lines. Grade 8 is harder. Used in auto suspensions from what I read. Won't hurt anything using them. I also like using nyloks.