found a deal on a 20Hp Johnson

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pike_hunter

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Apr 23, 2009
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Location
Moose jaw, Saskatchewan
Hi Guys

Awesome forum, since I found this forum I've learned so much about our tin boats and the coolest mods you guys do to your boats. Keep up the great work. So quick question for you, I have a V-hull 14 footer, with a bench seat in the middle and split bench seats in the rear. Currently I have a 74 9.9 evinrude which is alright for two people and gear, but since searching I've come accross a Johnson 20Hp 1976 for a $400.00, the million dollar question is will the 20 be too much for my boat? On the transom it says max hp @ 18HP, will the extra 2hp make much of a difference, also the transom is re-inforced as well. I'll post some pic's of the transom tonight when I get home. Any help would be appreciated on this matter.
 
Welcome to Tin Boats

The 20 will be fine - weight is the only issue and an 18 hp and a 20 hp are about the same


GO FOR IT!
 
20 shouldn't sink you. Had a builder put an 85 on a 50 rated hull (I bought the 50 from the other guy). He said the hull/transom would be fine, just the handling would be different - that if you didn't handle it right, you could sink it on turns and such. I don't think 2 extra hp would make a difference on the transom. As long as it is solid, you'll be fine. Your transom looks like mine and mine's rated for a 55hp - my bottom bracket is beefier, but that's about it.

One thing to think of, if you want to fish a tourney, don't exceed your boats limit on HP - or order an updated plate for your boat :---)
 
That boat not only can handle a 20, but wants it as well. Go for it, and only look back to find your hat that blew off. :lol:
 
Hey guys thanks for the replies and for your input, Ive made arrangements to pick up the motor this weekend. Should be good motor to try this summer and will definitely keep you updated on the setup. :)
 
Ditto on the above, had a 14' ter with a 25 johnson on it once, man that thing was super fast. Be very careful on the wot turns, give yourself plenty of room. Didn't have any issues with weight, or the transom. Have fun!
 
Yeah so i picked up the motor today finally, and wow it's surprisingly lighter than i figured. I thought this thing would weight like 100lbs or so. Doesn't weight much more than the 9.9 and was much easier than i though when I put it on the boat. :) can't wait to try it out this summer. :) Thanks for the tips on the WOT turns I'll keep it in mind.
 
pike_hunter said:
------can't wait to try it out this summer. :)-----

That provides plenty of time for you to rebuilt the waterpump with a new impeller at minimum.

Never---and I do mean NEVER----take anyone's word that it was done recently. Memories are fickle. Making the sale often trumps truth. Demonstrating how the motor runs to a prospect without it being in water may have destroyed a new impeller in any case. And peoples' understanding of 'recently' varies hugely.

A new impeller is your insurance policy that you don't cook your 'new' motor----and a very cheap form of insurance at that! On most brands and models $25 should cover parts and it's a simple job that anyone with a tiny bit of common sense and mechanical aptitude should be able to do without major hassles. Draining the lower unit as the first step in the impeller replacement process also gives you the opportunity to include another important check prior to putting a used motor in service and see if there has been any water leakage taking place. If anything other than clear amber 90W. gear oil drains out replace the driveshaft, prop shaft and shifter seals while it is apart. If you don't have the proper tools to replace the seals or don't feel comfortable with your competence the labor for having it done where you buy the seals should be very reasonable since you already have the L/U off and in hand.

Many experienced outboard users replace the impeller yearly as simple preventive maintenance. I'm not that dogmatic, but every 3rd year is pretty safe. My rule of thumb is if I can't recall exactly when I last replaced it that it's due. (knock on wood!) Haven't cooked one yet!

Should you discover a new looking impeller without visible cracks, with good flexibility and little set in the vanes when you pull it down then you'll have the spare that one should ALWAYS have aboard and you'll KNOW that you have a new one in place, know how to do it and are starting from a secure position.

Common sense outboard maintenance!
 
Hi Tom

yes i'm just getting all my ducks together here, I'ver ordered an new water pump and impellor this morning. That's first on the menu to change those two parts since. I also picked up a Clymer shop manual this morning too, but I would like to get the original shop manual for it too, I'll keep checking ebay for that one. I agree on my 9.9 evinrude I changed the water pump every other year and the impellor yearly and it's ran fine these past years I've owned it. And as for the lower unit changing seals, that is ssomething I'm going to have to learn when the time arrives I guess. most shops here dont work on engines that old????
 
So I changed the impeller and the water pump over the weekend. The three screws that hold the impeller housing were wrenched down super tight. I had to use a vice grips to loosen them. Any of the screw driver's I used, only one was able to come off the rest remaining two I had to use a vice grips. I know don't hate on me for using such an archaic way to remove a screw (vice-grip). I say a guy has to use what ever tools are needed and then some. Anyways I swapped out the parts put housing back together and am ready to bolt the lower unit back on. :). Step one is complete, now I`m gonna try clean the carb in the spring or when it warms up, I`ve also picked a great parts catalogue on ebay for this motor which will help me now when I`m in need of a part number. :)
 
bassboy1 said:
That boat not only can handle a 20, but wants it as well. Go for it, and only look back to find your hat that blew off. :lol:

I like the say he thinks! I figure if it is safe at 20, it must be TWICE as safe at 40 right? [-o<

Bufford in Orlando
 

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