Fuel tank placement regarding motor and electrical

[Douglasdzaster]

Hello everyone, I posted something about this on my rebuild but I haven’t seen any replies and things have changed.
I’m posting pictures with this. I’m trying to keep the weight in the center. How ever I drive from the starboard side. Three options that I see are. the tank fits really snug under the motor between the transom braces. Will not fit on port or starboard in the stern. So I could put the tank there or in the other picture. Excuse the mess I’m under construction. The yellow pool noodle is where the switch panel will come out. The tank will sit 12” away from the bench for foot room in the middle. Or I can put it to the port side a little closer to the panel still 12” out though. Before the fuel line ran over the seat. I’d like to run it through the bench but all the electrical is there with the battery. I use grommets for any hole I make but still ha the what ifs. What if the line sprung a leak onto the electrical. Even though no fittings will be in there. It’s marine grade below deck line a year old in a sheath. What got me here was I have to move the electrical to this side to keep it away from my new Garmin transducer cable etc. And weight balance. Oh all the other pool noodles are to protect my cover. Lol Since I didn’t floor the stern I’ll be painting it grey to keep the black bed liner from getting so hot. The entire top side will be battleship grey eventually.
Please fire away with the opinions and options I’m not thinking of. I appreciate all the help.

 

[airshot]

All depends on how much weight your boat can handle in the transom. Just a 6 gallon tank shoukd not be a problem but if you add batteries etc then it could be to much. If you choose to put the fuel line thru the tank seat, I would use a large enough hole that the fuel line passes easily thru, then use a pvc pipe glued into position for the line to pass thru. If it ever needs replaced, or in an energency you could easily disconnect and pull the line ( and fittings) thru. On my boat, I built on each side, infront of that rear seat a storage pod so the fuel tank is on one side the battery on the other. Keeps you in the center for better balance and the flat tops of the storage boxes was a great working spot and place to mount electronics within easy reach. Just some thoughts for ya.....

 

[Douglasdzaster]

All depends on how much weight your boat can handle in the transom. Just a 6 gallon tank shoukd not be a problem but if you add batteries etc then it could be to much. If you choose to put the fuel line thru the tank seat, I would use a large enough hole that the fuel line passes easily thru, then use a pvc pipe glued into position for the line to pass thru. If it ever needs replaced, or in an energency you could easily disconnect and pull the line ( and fittings) thru. On my boat, I built on each side, infront of that rear seat a storage pod so the fuel tank is on one side the battery on the other. Keeps you in the center for better balance and the flat tops of the storage boxes was a great working spot and place to mount electronics within easy reach. Just some thoughts for ya.....

I appreciate the ideas. I actually put the tank in under the motor this morning while it’s empty and I had to turn it on its side and really manipulate it to get it in there. I don’t think I could do it safely when it’s full. My tape measure didn’t tell me that. Lol: It’s a 6 gallon and the trolling battery is centered at the bow. The accessory battery is small 18ah that weighs hardly anything since the motor is pull start. I’ll definitely use some pvc for the run through. Unfortunately I can’t sit in the middle and drive because of the tiller length and I can’t raise the handle to operate because of the way the throttle cable is on the old motor. Somebody removed a bunch of stuff anyway when you lift the handle any i loose power (throttle).
I drive from the side I do because I’m left handed.
I was trying to figure out how to get the fuel tank out of the direct sunlight in the Texas heat. Is yours completely in closed? I’ve been using an older fuel tank that I could actually open and close the vent because of the problems with the epa ones. The first epa one I bought I installed the fuel demand valve and everything, shoved fuel through my carburetors because it didn’t vent like it was supposed to so I added a fuel shut off before the water separator.But I closed the vent on the old style tank when not running and one hot day I happened to look down and it was swollen like a ballon. I mean it was almost perfectly round. Scared the heck out of me what if I hadn't noticed it. I have another one of the new epa ones sitting in my shop where I store the old manual vent one as well. I noticed when I went out there the old one was either swollen or collapsed and the new epa one never changed so that tells me it’s venting in and out like it’s supposed to without the junk demand valve. I looked it up and that model does vent by itself and has good reviews without the extra valve and such. Anyway I’m going to try it out. Because of the problems and me finding the older style tank the new epa tank has just been sitting there with fuel in it. I think I’m going to remove the fuel and clean it. Then try it out with a fresh batch of mixed fuel.
Again I’d like to have some sort of compartment to keep it out of the sun and I’m no carpenter. If you could tell me how you built yours or better yet take a picture . I can tie into the bench with some angled aluminum but if I build it I’d like to get as close to the gunnel as possible. It being slanted is throwing me off.
Again I really appreciate the help.

 

[LDUBS]

If I recall correctly, the epa tanks are supposed to vent at 5 psi. Out of curiosity, what brand is the newer EPA tank that seems to be working?

I had a similar problem in my previous boat (15', 25 HP). I couldn't fit a 6 gallon. Had to use a 3 gal to fit in the stern area. Good news is it turned the gaso over relatively quickly so bad gaso wasn't a problem. Bad news was I carried a small portable gaso can most of the time. Never had to use it but peace of mind and all that you know.

Not much help I'm afraid. IMO, the 6 gallon is worth it if you can make it work. I think I would take a hard look at Airshot's approach. I wonder if the seat box could be modified to fit the tank in the transom area. Probably not practical, just a thought.

BTW, 90 & 100 deg days are common where I fish in the summer. It never occurred to me to worry about the tank being exposed. Most of them in small boats are sitting out in the open.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

If I recall correctly, the epa tanks are supposed to vent at 5 psi. Out of curiosity, what brand is the newer EPA tank that seems to be working?

I had a similar problem in my previous boat (15', 25 HP). I couldn't fit a 6 gallon. Had to use a 3 gal to fit in the stern area. Good news is it turned the gaso over relatively quickly so bad gaso wasn't a problem. Bad news was I carried a small portable gaso can most of the time. Never had to use it but peace of mind and all that you know.

Not much help I'm afraid. IMO, the 6 gallon is worth it if you can make it work. I think I would take a hard look at Airshot's approach. I wonder if the seat box could be modified to fit the tank in the transom area. Probably not practical, just a thought.

BTW, 90 & 100 deg days are common where I fish in the summer. It never occurred to me to worry about the tank being exposed. Most of them in small boats are sitting out in the open.

The first one I had was Attwood. I bought their fuel demand valve and new quick connectors that wasn’t supposed to loose any fuel when connecting and dis connecting but they lost plenty of fuel. That set up flooded all three carburetors and hag fuel everywhere.
The one that seems to be working in a Scepter 08508. 6 gallon. Bought on Amazon.
Right now in that bench is my only storage and I’m taking up part of that with the battery , fuse block and switch panel. Which I still may put the battery behind it in the stern. I wish that fuel tank would fit back there. I’m sure the weight would be ok. I have a 40hp Yamaha that puts me up on plane pretty quick. I’ve thought about a three gallon but like I said before. One of these post may be my last because my wife figured out how much I’m spending on the boat. I’ll be living in it with no internet.
Ive already measured to see what size pvc I need to run the fuel line through. With fitting it’s 1 1/4”. I was going to remove the fitting to put the hose through small holes with rubber grommets. But Airshots suggestion is a lot safer. I’m tired of running it over the seat and worrying about one of the seats gets slammed shut on it after someone gets something out. It usually sits just between the left seat and the gunnel and when the seat is opened it slides on down waiting for the corner of that seat to catch it and then get sat on. I got grandkids, a wife and a fishing buddy. All capable of doing exactly what I just described. That’s 12 grandkids total. Lol

 

[LDUBS]

Not surprised to hear it is a Scepter brand. The 3 gallon tank I mentioned before was a Scepter. I ended up replacing the 12 gallon "portable" tank on the current boat with a Scepter brand tank.

Sounds like you have a good solution to the tank location.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Not surprised to hear it is a Scepter brand. The 3 gallon tank I mentioned before was a Scepter. I ended up replacing the 12 gallon "portable" tank on the current boat with a Scepter brand tank.

Sounds like you have a good solution to the tank location.

I was wanting to save the floor space but it’s either that or give up my storage. I carry a small tool kit and extra parts , anchor , safety stuff etc.
But I’m super happy about rerouting the fuel line.

 

[airshot]

Consider keeping your accessories like battery, fuel tank etc along the sides to balance the load, this allows you and passengers the center of the boat to move around in. Having a passenger move to the outside quickly is an accident looking to happen. When I refered to the side storage units, mine were just a top suspended between the front and center built in tank seats. I just spanned thevtwo with a piece of aluminum angle and added a piece if 3/8" plywood as a top. Plenty tall enough to put a 6 gal tank and a group 27 deep cycle battery under. Was actually strong enough to step on for getting in and out !! I weigh 180 and it supported my fat but with ease. Best oart was it balanced the boat !! I am also left handed, and sort of sit to the right side, so battery was on the left side and fuel tank on the right, also had extra room for tackle boxes and a waterproof duffle bag to carry flares, first aid kit, etc. This gave the entire center to move around with having to try to step over stuff. Keeping weight centered ( front to back) will get your boat up on plane quicker and make it ride more level. Once underway you may have to move things around to get the best balance. Passengers wont always get to sit where they want to due to balance issues but that is what is needed on smaller craft to keep them balanced and safe !!

 

[Tin Man]

I had a similar situation. My OEM Yamaha 6gal tank would not fit behind me on starboard side between driver's seat and transom. I ended up purchasing a new Sceptre 6gal tank. It has a smaller footprint but is still 6gal. I placed it behind me at transom (starboard side) and placed the starting motor battery (12V-Grp 27) opposite side to port. Since I'll be adding approx. 100# to bow (TM and Grp 27 battery) it will balance well. There are currently 100# of sand bags placed in bow area by previous owner so I know that amount of weight up forward works great.

NOTE: I also placed an external Yamaha fuel filter between battery and fuel tank.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

Consider keeping your accessories like battery, fuel tank etc along the sides to balance the load, this allows you and passengers the center of the boat to move around in. Having a passenger move to the outside quickly is an accident looking to happen. When I refered to the side storage units, mine were just a top suspended between the front and center built in tank seats. I just spanned thevtwo with a piece of aluminum angle and added a piece if 3/8" plywood as a top. Plenty tall enough to put a 6 gal tank and a group 27 deep cycle battery under. Was actually strong enough to step on for getting in and out !! I weigh 180 and it supported my fat but with ease. Best oart was it balanced the boat !! I am also left handed, and sort of sit to the right side, so battery was on the left side and fuel tank on the right, also had extra room for tackle boxes and a waterproof duffle bag to carry flares, first aid kit, etc. This gave the entire center to move around with having to try to step over stuff. Keeping weight centered ( front to back) will get your boat up on plane quicker and make it ride more level. Once underway you may have to move things around to get the best balance. Passengers wont always get to sit where they want to due to balance issues but that is what is needed on smaller craft to keep them balanced and safe !!

I’m out on that idea since I don’t have a middle bench. I bet I could use the ribs and some aluminum and maybe make something work. I’ve already relocated the trolling battery to the center just behind my seat and was going to put the fuel tank in the center in front of the rear bench where my storage is. The trolling battery in that location is more out of the way when I swing around and get out of the seat. I’ve started wiring everything to the starboard side opposite of where I sit. The battery which is very small and fuse block are on that side and I’m putting the switch panel there coming out of the front of the bench. It’s going to be installed sideways so everything takes up very little space. That puts most of my storage in the middle and under me.
I thought I was balancing instead it sounds like I’m making a big canoe.
I’ll put the fuel tank on the starboard in front of the bench where it was. I found a piece of 1 1/2” pvc to that the fittings will run through with the fuel line as you suggested. Great idea by the way because that pipe is going to be close to the electrical now. I feel safe with the schedule 40 though.
Ive never had a problem with the boat rocking much it’s extra wide. I can also place my gear ice chest etc. to the sides. If it doesn’t act right I’ll move the trolling battery back to the side it just keeps me from stepping down on that side from the deck and my rod holders are mounted all down the same side.
I ran the wires for the stern today and on the side where the tank is I have one of two led flood lights. I made sure I had plenty of wire to splice then I thought it’s going to be real interesting heat shrinking right there where the fuel water separator is.Lol: I think I’ll remove the light run the wire though the hole and take a step back with the heat gun.
Sorry I got long winded again. I’m definitely appreciative of your help and suggestions. Things I didn’t think about.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I had a similar situation. My OEM Yamaha 6gal tank would not fit behind me on starboard side between driver's seat and transom. I ended up purchasing a new Sceptre 6gal tank. It has a smaller footprint but is still 6gal. I placed it behind me at transom (starboard side) and placed the starting motor battery (12V-Grp 27) opposite side to port. Since I'll be adding approx. 100# to bow (TM and Grp 27 battery) it will balance well. There are currently 100# of sand bags placed in bow area by previous owner so I know that amount of weight up forward works great.

NOTE: I also placed an external Yamaha fuel filter between battery and fuel tank.

Nice. The Scepter tank I’m switching to is a 6.6 and unfortunately a little bigger. But it’s what I got and I’ll make it work.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I’m out on that idea since I don’t have a middle bench. I bet I could use the ribs and some aluminum and maybe make something work. I’ve already relocated the trolling battery to the center just behind my seat and was going to put the fuel tank in the center in front of the rear bench where my storage is. The trolling battery in that location is more out of the way when I swing around and get out of the seat. I’ve started wiring everything to the starboard side opposite of where I sit. The battery which is very small and fuse block are on that side and I’m putting the switch panel there coming out of the front of the bench. It’s going to be installed sideways so everything takes up very little space. That puts most of my storage in the middle and under me.
I thought I was balancing instead it sounds like I’m making a big canoe.
I’ll put the fuel tank on the starboard in front of the bench where it was. I found a piece of 1 1/2” pvc to that the fittings will run through with the fuel line as you suggested. Great idea by the way because that pipe is going to be close to the electrical now. I feel safe with the schedule 40 though.
Ive never had a problem with the boat rocking much it’s extra wide. I can also place my gear ice chest etc. to the sides. If it doesn’t act right I’ll move the trolling battery back to the side it just keeps me from stepping down on that side from the deck and my rod holders are mounted all down the same side.
I ran the wires for the stern today and on the side where the tank is I have one of two led flood lights. I made sure I had plenty of wire to splice then I thought it’s going to be real interesting heat shrinking right there where the fuel water separator is.Lol: I think I’ll remove the light run the wire though the hole and take a step back with the heat gun.
Sorry I got long winded again. I’m definitely appreciative of your help and suggestions. Things I didn’t think about.

Change up. I’m putting the tank where the other one was riding. In front of the bench on the side opposite of myself. I’m going to build a table a little higher than the tank that will be for cutting bait as well as shade the tank. It will be removable for cleaning etc. If the tanks going to take up space I’ll make it usable.I’m still undecided on running the fuel line through where all the electrical is. I really don’t want to drill 2 , 1 1/2” holes in the bench. I thought about just the size of the line In it’s sheathing I have it in but that leaves the tank fitting not able to pull through. When I built the fuel system I used A1-15 fuel line all the way. From the fuel tank to a shut off valve where it goes into the fuel water separator mounted in the transom corner. Then from the fws to the primer bulb then the motor. In an emergency I could disconnect the tank and put it in the bow where the extinguisher is mounted. I’m trying to talk myself into it. With the low permutation fuel line and being in pvc. I’ll have to keep constant check on the fuse block anyway to make sure the screws are tight because I was told they would loosen over time because of vibration etc. If I’d have known I could have gotten ignition protected stuff. My float switch on the bilge states that it is but my switch panel doesn’t. I got a good fuse block though.

 

[LDUBS]

So, the current plan is to put the tank in front of seat with fuel line running back to the FWS. The suggestion on the table is to hole saw through the front/back of the seat box to accept a large diameter PVC pipe. Run the fuel line through the PVC pipe to the FWS. That seems pretty clean. Your concern is the switch/fuse panel is right next to the tank. You could move the switch panel over or mount it somewhere else like behind the bench seat.

Another thought -- you mention the 6 gal tank will fit behind the seat between the two transom braces. I understand you would prefer it off to the side. But I might give it a try. Might not be an issue, IDK.

 

[gtodd]

Douglasdzaster, your statement: "One of these post may be my last because my wife figured out how much I’m spending on the boat" reminded me of my favorite bumper sticker: "My greatest fear in life is that when I die, my wife will sell my boat and fishing tackle for what I told her I paid for it."

 

[Douglasdzaster]

So, the current plan is to put the tank in front of seat with fuel line running back to the FWS. The suggestion on the table is to hole saw through the front/back of the seat box to accept a large diameter PVC pipe. Run the fuel line through the PVC pipe to the FWS. That seems pretty clean. Your concern is the switch/fuse panel is right next to the tank. You could move the switch panel over or mount it somewhere else like behind the bench seat.

Another thought -- you mention the 6 gal tank will fit behind the seat between the two transom braces. I understand you would prefer it off to the side. But I might give it a try. Might not be an issue, IDK.

I actually need the weight back there. When I’m alone fishing on the front deck I’m putting more weight on the front than the rear. If I had a leak I’m not sure it wouldn’t take a lot of water before reaching the bilge pump. Especially if I’m carrying a full load of gear in the front. I never think to move it all to the back when I’m fishing. I won’t know until I tear into it but the deck is heavy there’s some pretty thick plating welded under the seat the rest is covered in plywood. Boat plans out good. My concern is the switch panel is mounted in the front of the bench meaning all the wires and fuse box and battery are inside the bench not far from the pvc pipe. I’m using the A1-15 (I think it’s called) It’s actually below deck low permeable wrapped in a shield. I just don’t know about pvc pipe. Could fumes pass through schedule 40? The rest of the bench is storage in the middle and a tackle box system on the other side. The trouble with putting it between the transom braces which I’d love to do is getting it in and out. I used an empty tank and had to manipulate it. Even turn it on its side to get it past the motor and the mounts. I’m not sure how well it’ll go with a full tank. I’m going to try and see how it goes before I do any of the other stuff. I’ve always been told to fill the tank on the ground and not while it’s in the boat or I’d put it there and leave it. If I could I’d get me a three gallon or two but I’ve been pushing the budget for this phase. In the future should not be a problem. When I’m done this time I’m going to enjoy it for a while and build the budget up to redo the front deck and paint at least inside and above the water line.
Since I’m switching to the Scepter tank I’ll make sure it fits before filling it. It’s a 6.6 gallon and looks a little bigger but I haven’t measured it. I’ll report back like I said I’d love to have it back there.
Got the cover on the boat now and my wife’s car out there Ill be spending a couple of days on.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

I actually need the weight back there. When I’m alone fishing on the front deck I’m putting more weight on the front than the rear. If I had a leak I’m not sure it wouldn’t take a lot of water before reaching the bilge pump. Especially if I’m carrying a full load of gear in the front. I never think to move it all to the back when I’m fishing. I won’t know until I tear into it but the deck is heavy there’s some pretty thick plating welded under the seat the rest is covered in plywood. Boat plans out good. My concern is the switch panel is mounted in the front of the bench meaning all the wires and fuse box and battery are inside the bench not far from the pvc pipe. I’m using the A1-15 (I think it’s called) It’s actually below deck low permeable wrapped in a shield. I just don’t know about pvc pipe. Could fumes pass through schedule 40? The rest of the bench is storage in the middle and a tackle box system on the other side. The trouble with putting it between the transom braces which I’d love to do is getting it in and out. I used an empty tank and had to manipulate it. Even turn it on its side to get it past the motor and the mounts. I’m not sure how well it’ll go with a full tank. I’m going to try and see how it goes before I do any of the other stuff. I’ve always been told to fill the tank on the ground and not while it’s in the boat or I’d put it there and leave it. If I could I’d get me a three gallon or two but I’ve been pushing the budget for this phase. In the future should not be a problem. When I’m done this time I’m going to enjoy it for a while and build the budget up to redo the front deck and paint at least inside and above the water line.
Since I’m switching to the Scepter tank I’ll make sure it fits before filling it. It’s a 6.6 gallon and looks a little bigger but I haven’t measured it. I’ll report back like I said I’d love to have it back there.
Got the cover on the boat now and my wife’s car out there Ill be spending a couple of days on.

I thought about it this morning and the way the boat sit while I was on the bow may have had a lot to do with that 3/4” moister soaked plywood I removed when I rebuilt the floor. I’m going to have to wait until I get to the water before doing anything permanent as far as weight. I’m almost there. all the new wiring is in place . I have one section to loom then I can ties it all in the new switch panel and fuse block I have in place. I have foam board left fron the floor so it’s going in the bottom of the bench with some 15/32 plywood on top.

 

[LDUBS]

My concern is the switch panel is mounted in the front of the bench meaning all the wires and fuse box and battery are inside the bench not far from the pvc pipe. I’m using the A1-15 (I think it’s called) It’s actually below deck low permeable wrapped in a shield. I just don’t know about pvc pipe. Could fumes pass through schedule 40?

In this application, I would have zero concern with gaso fumes passing through the Sch40 PVC.

The rest of the bench is storage in the middle and a tackle box system on the other side. The trouble with putting it between the transom braces which I’d love to do is getting it in and out. I used an empty tank and had to manipulate it. Even turn it on its side to get it past the motor and the mounts. I’m not sure how well it’ll go with a full tank. I’m going to try and see how it goes before I do any of the other stuff. I’ve always been told to fill the tank on the ground and not while it’s in the boat or I’d put it there and leave it. If I could I’d get me a three gallon or two but I’ve been pushing the budget for this phase. In the future should not be a problem. When I’m done this time I’m going to enjoy it for a while and build the budget up to redo the front deck and paint at least inside and above the water line.

Yeah, those pesky budget issues are always a problem!

From what you describe, between the transom braces does not sound like a good option. Besides removal for refilling, these tanks expand and contract and need a little room. Wedging between the braces could be an issue.

Using dual 3 gallon tanks is an interesting option. You would need to move the fuel hose or put in a valve to switch tanks when one runs dry. Not ideal IMO, but doable.

Until you come up with a solution you really like, maybe just run the fuel line across the top of the bench -- along the side of course. Put that section of large diameter PVC on top of the bench where it meets the hull.

 

[Douglasdzaster]

In this application, I would have zero concern with gaso fumes passing through the Sch40 PVC.



Yeah, those pesky budget issues are always a problem!

From what you describe, between the transom braces does not sound like a good option. Besides removal for refilling, these tanks expand and contract and need a little room. Wedging between the braces could be an issue.

Using dual 3 gallon tanks is an interesting option. You would need to move the fuel hose or put in a valve to switch tanks when one runs dry. Not ideal IMO, but doable.

Until you come up with a solution you really like, maybe just run the fuel line across the top of the bench -- along the side of course. Put that section of large diameter PVC on top of the bench where it meets the hull.

It fits so snug between the transom braces I couldn’t figure out how to get a strap on it. One of the obstacles is two transom bolts that wouldn’t be that far above the tank. I was looking at it today thinking if that tank was to swell up enough ……well it would be a show.
I’m going to run it like I did before. The hose lays good between the seat and gunnel I just have to make sure nobody raises that seat without being mindful not to pinch the hose when it’s put back down. I have enough line I can sit It on that side then move it to the middle and try that.
If I run the fuel line through the bench I’m thinki about a piece of schedule 40 big enough for the hose not the fitting too. I can take off the tank connector , run the hose then put it back on. Smaller pipe , less room for the hose to wiggle around in the pipe and a lot neater looking instead of almost a 2” hole in the front and back of the bench. The tanks going to be with me and I can unplug it and move it if there is an unfortunate situation. I found some small vents I can put a couple in the electrical/ battery area. Even though the battery is a SLA. There’s a couple of holes already in the back of the bench in the middle. When I got the boat there was a fiberglass live well that someone had patched and I assume was planning to plumb it and never did. I stuck a couple of grommets in the holes to cover up the sharp aluminum.

 

[LDUBS]

I think you said you battery is under the bench seat. Looks like you have plenty of room to put it back in the open transom area (in a battery box of course). Just a thought.

 

[airshot]

Change up. I’m putting the tank where the other one was riding. In front of the bench on the side opposite of myself. I’m going to build a table a little higher than the tank that will be for cutting bait as well as shade the tank. It will be removable for cleaning etc. If the tanks going to take up space I’ll make it usable.I’m still undecided on running the fuel line through where all the electrical is. I really don’t want to drill 2 , 1 1/2” holes in the bench. I thought about just the size of the line In it’s sheathing I have it in but that leaves the tank fitting not able to pull through. When I built the fuel system I used A1-15 fuel line all the way. From the fuel tank to a shut off valve where it goes into the fuel water separator mounted in the transom corner. Then from the fws to the primer bulb then the motor. In an emergency I could disconnect the tank and put it in the bow where the extinguisher is mounted. I’m trying to talk myself into it. With the low permutation fuel line and being in pvc. I’ll have to keep constant check on the fuse block anyway to make sure the screws are tight because I was told they would loosen over time because of vibration etc. If I’d have known I could have gotten ignition protected stuff. My float switch on the bilge states that it is but my switch panel doesn’t. I got a good fuse block though.

In case of an emergency, I dont think you would want to move a 6 gallon tank of fuel if a fire was present...No matter what type of fuel line you use, the advantage of a quick disconnect and ability to remove it quickly is a better choice !! If your screws are comming loose from vibration, pick up a small tube of blue loctite, add the smallest little dab of loctite to the screw threads then they will stay put, yet easily removed when needed..