Gathering parts, about to start my project.

[KCBizzy]

So this is my first post here, I will try to keep it as short as possible, a lot going on!

So last year I purchased an Alumacraft 1232 jon new from Academy to put on the lake I "live on" (at the end of my street). The lake is big enough for real boats but is a no wake lake. Which works out great for me and my little boat. So my plan was this spring to mod it to make it more comfy and way more badass, in my eyes at least. The build is kind of a basic one compared to others but I am very excited. Over the last 2 months I have been shopping around like a mad man and grabbing everything I need, I want to do the complete build in a weekend or two.

The plan. Add carpeted marine ply to the top of the benches, mount seats with swivel on top of ply, front one will have a slight pedestal to give me a tad bit of a lift. Add a small marine ply "front deck"on the bow, will only be big enough as needed to mount a foot control trolling motor and LED fog lights. Also putting in 4 LED companionway lights, two for each bench, to light your feets. Marine junction box will hold the switches and all that fun noise. Also a few rod holders and a cup holder or two. I have a small, maybe 3-4 hp, 2 stroke outboard for the major pushing. With all of this I have a few questions, I have researched this quite a bit and still want to make sure I am somewhat on top of things when I start. Any help would be appreciated!

When mounting the ply to the bench I think I want to use the rivnut route. Maybe eight (1/4-20) rivnuts per bench and then a crap ton of marine adhesive, I picked up a couple of tubes of the Goop marine adhesive from Academy. So I will drill everything, put in the rivnuts, carpet the ply then glue and bolt it down to the bench. Does this sound good? Alternative is stainless toggle bolts as I want to keep the foam. Thoughts?

Also I am debating between 1/2" and 3/4" ply for the benches. I plan on using stainless Tee-nuts to screw the seats into the ply. again, thoughts?

When mounting the front deck for the tm I was just simply going to cut it to shape to sit on top of the outer aluminum tubing, then drilling pilot holes and screwing it down with stainless sheet metal screws, into that thicker outer tubing. Does this sound like an ok plan? I do have access to extruded aluminum, but not sure how to use it for that application :/ (actually I do want to put a piece on the bottom on the front deck width ways to prevent sagging)

Because of weight I did not plan on adding any flooring, but **** I hate not having anything. Sucks to walk on, loud as hell, the dogs nails when she is moving around sound like a bunch of crappie are tap dancing on the hull. So might add in a little with the left over plywood? Or maybe even lay down a rubber mat.

I hope this all doesnt sound crazy, it will be adding a bit of weight to the vessel but my lake is very calm and would only go out in good conditions. I am even just debating pulling myself around with the trolling motor and my big battery (115 ah), which I did for most of last year. I am trying to use good materials in hopes it will last and look good for at least a few years, the craft will be stored outside. I have everything on my list as purchasing goes except the marine ply, carpet and about half of the hardware. Which I plan on getting this weekend.

Apologies for the big post but was not quite sure how to break it up. Any help or advice would be much appreciated, thank you for looking, will post pics of the build.

 

[Moosifer]

I'm currently planning a very similar project for my 12' V-hull. Your plans sound very similar to mine including its execution. First off, from my research on here, as long as you apply adequate waterproofing, you should be fine with exterior grade ply instead of marine grade which is expensive. For the cost, I'll be sticking with standard exterior ply. I'll also be using riv-nuts and bolting the ply to my benches so they can easily be removed when needed.

As for your TM mount, I'd be leery using sheet metal screws for the mount. In my experience with them they tend to get stripped overtime, especially with vibration. They may work OK, but I think you'd be better off with a bolt & nut/riv-nut combination with or without some aluminum brackets. I'm not exactly sure of your design but maybe mounts/supports using aluminum square tubing?

For flooring, pink foam board with thin plywood (1/2" max) would make a nice sturdy floor, especially on a flat bottom. I personally lean towards a removable design for cleaning.

 

[KCBizzy]

I'm currently planning a very similar project for my 12' V-hull. Your plans sound very similar to mine including its execution. First off, from my research on here, as long as you apply adequate waterproofing, you should be fine with exterior grade ply instead of marine grade which is expensive. For the cost, I'll be sticking with standard exterior ply. I'll also be using riv-nuts and bolting the ply to my benches so they can easily be removed when needed.

As for your TM mount, I'd be leery using sheet metal screws for the mount. In my experience with them they tend to get stripped overtime, especially with vibration. They may work OK, but I think you'd be better off with a bolt & nut/riv-nut combination with or without some aluminum brackets. I'm not exactly sure of your design but maybe mounts/supports using aluminum square tubing?

For flooring, pink foam board with thin plywood (1/2" max) would make a nice sturdy floor, especially on a flat bottom. I personally lean towards a removable design for cleaning.

Thanks for the reply. For the front deck I might use some aluminum braces going across attached with rivnuts, then attach the ply to that! I like it, does sound better. And as far as the ply goes just standard exterior plywood with water sealer? What happens when you put holes in it after you seal it? I would like to keep the cost down and that would make it easier to get the size I want for the different applications.

Thanks!

 

[Moosifer]

I don't have much experience with waterproofing treatments. From what I've gathered epoxy resin is the best method, but is costly. Two years ago I made a replacement floor for my old inflatable and researched a lot at that time. I decided to just prime and paint as I knew the floor would be removed and stored indoors when the boat was not in use. Last year, I left it outside covered with a tarp. Unfortunately the tarp shifted and rain got in so the floor was submerged under water for a few weeks. When I noticed it, the paint had peeled in some spots but the wood was still solid.

My plans are very similar to yours but everything will be relatively easily removable (bench-tops, floors, decking) and stored indoors over the winter with the boat raised and inverted outside. I'm thinking of doing the same thing and just painting the wood. I'll wait until everything is cut & drilled then apply paint. I can always touch up if needed later. If the wood was going to be exposed other than when on the water I'd go with the epoxy route. I'd suggest pre-drill/assemble everything then waterproof.

 

[KCBizzy]

I don't have much experience with waterproofing treatments. From what I've gathered epoxy resin is the best method, but is costly. Two years ago I made a replacement floor for my old inflatable and researched a lot at that time. I decided to just prime and paint as I knew the floor would be removed and stored indoors when the boat was not in use. Last year, I left it outside covered with a tarp. Unfortunately the tarp shifted and rain got in so the floor was submerged under water for a few weeks. When I noticed it, the paint had peeled in some spots but the wood was still solid.

My plans are very similar to yours but everything will be relatively easily removable (bench-tops, floors, decking) and stored indoors over the winter with the boat raised and inverted outside. I'm thinking of doing the same thing and just painting the wood. I'll wait until everything is cut & drilled then apply paint. I can always touch up if needed later. If the wood was going to be exposed other than when on the water I'd go with the epoxy route. I'd suggest pre-drill/assemble everything then waterproof.

drill and cut then seal makes sense. Yeah my boat will be stored on a boat rack that sits at a good angle, so hopefully a cover will work nicely. Also will flip on the rack for the winter months. Painting does sound a lot easier but just like the carpet look and feel. Excited to get started, keep me posted on yours as well.

 

[richg99]

Just old conservative Rich here..

You both have small boats. You both want to do some really neat things to them.

What no one knows is how the little boat(s) will react with all of the added weight. It would be a crying shame to do all of the work, and then find out that the boat is a tank.

Can you calculate the weights of all of your new gear? If so, can you load the boat(s) with bricks; five-gallon water buckets; whatever you can find.... and drop the hull into the water? Row, motor, do whatever you can to get a feel for how she runs. If she handles the weight, then go for it.

If not, find out what weight works, and cut your plans back some.

The reason I bring this up is.....some many years ago, I built a heavy back deck for a small 16 foot tunnel hull fiberglass boat. She wouldn't plane!! What a waste of time...but not too much money.

richg99

 

[KCBizzy]

Just old conservative Rich here..

You both have small boats. You both want to do some really neat things to them.

What no one knows is how the little boat(s) will react with all of the added weight. It would be a crying shame to do all of the work, and then find out that the boat is a tank.

Can you calculate the weights of all of your new gear? If so, can you load the boat(s) with bricks; five-gallon water buckets; whatever you can find.... and drop the hull into the water? Row, motor, do whatever you can to get a feel for how she runs. If she handles the weight, then go for it.

If not, find out what weight works, and cut your plans back some.

The reason I bring this up is.....some many years ago, I built a heavy back deck for a small 16 foot tunnel hull fiberglass boat. She wouldn't plane!! What a waste of time...but not too much money.

richg99

thanks for the post and I definitely see what you are saying, but on my lake I think it will work. It being a no wake lake we have no problem with slow. My boat probably has never been over 5mph honestly. I actually only used a 45# thrust trolling motor for most of last year.

 

[Ictalurus]

You can use 1/4" ply for the floor, just put some blue board underneath for support. It should be pretty light.

 

[KCBizzy]

You can use 1/4" ply for the floor, just put some blue board underneath for support. It should be pretty light.

thanks will do! Thompson water seal? Also I purchased "Weldwood All-weather carpet adhesive" figured that would work well on the ply? If I run short of the weldwood can I use the Goop marine adhesive?

 

[Ictalurus]

I just used paint or spar urethane to seal. I preferred the paint as cost was much less.

 

[perchjerker]

You can use 1/4" ply for the floor, just put some blue board underneath for support. It should be pretty light.

Ic-

what exactly is blue board? I thought that was like drywall?

is it that foam insulation board?

thanks