Gregor 12 - Transom Repair/Replacement

[AlexB]

The wood isn't super tight, but it's snug. This is what I had in mind. Let me know what you think.

1) Slide the wood into place

2) Mark the location of each hole onto the wood.

3) Remove the wood.

4) Select a drill bit that matches the diameter of the squished down "back side" of a closed end aluminum pop rivet.

5) Drill ~1/2" into the wood at each rivet location (depth the rivet needs to stick in, whatever that is), and hit the rim of each hole with some sandpaper to clean it up a little.

6) Seal the wood. (I want to do all my drilling BEFORE I seal it)

7) Install the wood, and bolt into place.

8) Apply 5200 to some closed end pop rivets, slide them into place, and pop.

The only problem I see with this method is that I'll have to drill out the rivets if I ever need to remove the wood in the future. The wood won't be able to slide in or out with the rivets in place. Well, it might be able to, but not without scratching up the back side, possibly exposing raw unsealed wood.

I dunno... Each method has its pros and cons. I like the idea of trying to keep the repair flush on the inside so the wood can be removed without too much effort, but I'm not sure if my plan in that little sketch above will work (either with 5200 or JB weld).









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[BigTerp]

That sounds like a decent plan. Removing blind rivets is much easier then solid rivets. So if you ever have to take the wood out it won't be much of a hassle removing the rivets. Easy to reinstall as well.

 

[AlexB]

I think I'm gonna go for this rivet approach for the holes behind the wood and use some SS bolts/washers/nuts/5200 for the holes below the wood (also below the water line).

The transom will be speckled with bolts and rivets, but as long as it doesn't leak I don't really care how it looks..


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