Had hoped to avoid this like the plague.

[macawman]

Think I'll do the break-in on the rebuild at 24:1 then maybe give 16:1 a try.

 

[macawman]

Speaking of rebuild, what do you use to pre-lube bearings and such during assembly? Back in my hotrod days, I used STP, but that was big bore V8s and I don't know if that is adequate and appropriate for this motor.

 

[macawman]

Could use some advise on this. The book says the lube needs to be something that will handle the rigors of initial startup but will dissipate and wash out quickly so the oil can take over. That's definitely not STP.

I have found a source for OEM needle bearing grease. However the book makes frequent referenc to "1000" grease which I can't find. At least not by that name anyway. Anyone have any idea what they are talking about or where to get it?

 

[nccatfisher]

Could use some advise on this. The book says the lube needs to be something that will handle the rigors of initial startup but will dissipate and wash out quickly so the oil can take over. That's definitely not STP.

I have found a source for OEM needle bearing grease. However the book makes frequent referenc to "1000" grease which I can't find. At least not by that name anyway. Anyone have any idea what they are talking about or where to get it?

Most of your auto parts places have a can of oil/lubricant that we used to use for regular and roller tappet cams. We used to use them especially for start up on the old solid lifter cams to they got lubed up even when we pre-lubed them and primed the oil pumps. It was slick as two snails getting it on in a bucket. It you aren't comfortable using a good grade of motor oil prelubing the walls and rings/pistons I would get a can of that and use it.

Disclaimer:
You may have to go to a high performance parts store, these box stores like Advance and Auto Zone most likely will look at you like you have lost your mind when you ask for it.

 

[Pappy]

Proper needle bearing grease can be ordered by any Evinrude dealer.
It does go away quickly and is best used straight from a refrigerator!
I would not worry about using a STP as it will go away faster than you think it will and be providing good lubrication while it does.
A white grease will probably do a decent job as well and stay on longer than STP will. Trick is to find one that will hold the needles while you assemble the rotating pieces, most will not. That is why I mentioned the correct grease and the fridge!

 

[macawman]

Thanks all.

 

[macawman]

The book says to use "1000" sealant to glue the crankcase halves back together again. There is no gasket at that location. Anyone know why a hi-temp silicone sealant or form-a-gasket wouldn't work just as well?

 

[Sinkingfast]

The book says to use "1000" sealant to glue the crankcase halves back together again. There is no gasket at that location. Anyone know why a hi-temp silicone sealant or form-a-gasket wouldn't work just as well?

Never use silicone...after all that work and love into the motor don't screw it up with silicone. Ya need Loctite 518 or another manufacture equivalent. They are anaerobic sealants.

 

[macawman]

Thanks for the advise, Sinkingfast.

 

[macawman]

Well, thanks to Pappy's contacts, the block is in for machine work. Oversized pistons and updated rods pins and bearings have been rounded up and new prop was ordered today. That pretty well wraps up replacement of 95% of the moving parts in the motor. Unless it is in violation of a board rule, I think I will close out this thread and start a new one when reassembly begins.