How do I wire a 24 volt trolling motor?

[JRyno10]

Is this the right way to wire a 24 volt trolling motor? Not a very good drawing but I think it looks correct.

 

[donmac]

Yes, placing a jumper between the 2 batteries as shown is the most common way to wire a 24v motor. Some older boats may be setup a little differently. If you are working with an pre-existing configuration you need to make sure you understand how the tm plug is wired.

 

[JRyno10]

Thanks for the quick reply. Thats how I wired mine and the TM had been working flawlessly the first 5 or 6 times that I went out. A few days ago I went out and the trolling motor seemed to run fine.. was going close to full throttle then it slowly started running slower.. and slower.. until it was going as slow as it possibly could go. So when i got home i checked the set screw and it seemed loose, tightened it tried the TM again, same thing happened. I then used a volt meter and check the batteries and one was 10.?? and the other was 11.?? so I don't believe it was the batteries. So last night I went out with an identical TM ( I have 2 Motorguide Great White 24v 67lb thrust TMs) and the same thing happened! But this time when i used the volt meter one battery read 11.33 and the other read 7.45. Why aren't they be closer in charge? Could this be the reason the motors aren't running properly?

 

[Wallijig]

Are batteries both new? Or one old one new?
May want to check all connectors crimp connections for any oxidation. It would be best to have them soldered. Moisture and connections can do some strange things tight as one may think it is crimped.

 

[JRyno10]

Both batteries are very new, maybe 2 weeks old, I will check the connections and make sure, although they are only about 2 weeks old as well.

 

[Buddychrist]

I would not solder or use crimp connections.

Heat shrink electrical connections are the best when it comes to boating because they are waterproof, solid connections, and easy to remove later if you needed to do any work on the trolling motor

 

[Wallijig]

I would not solder or use crimp connections.

Heat shrink electrical connections are the best when it comes to boating because they are waterproof, solid connections, and easy to remove later if you needed to do any work on the trolling motor

Solder can be removed and has best corrosion resistant connection. Solder can be removed with solder wick. You heat it up just like you are soldering it and put wick against it, it will soak solder right away like a sponge.
I believe best possible connection if one tins and solder wire properly covered with a heat shrink or liquid tape. Easily taken apart with razor blade cutting insulation off and solder gun and wick to separate solder connection again.

They also make sealed solder heat shrink connectors. It heat shrinks and solders in one step.
https://www.calcentron.com/Pages/elektralink/elektralink_sealed_solder_splice_kits.php

 

[earl60446]

Make sure that cable between the two batteries is a nice heavy gauge, heavier than the cables going to the trolling motor. Do both batteries fully charge correctly? Some auto parts stores will load test them for you for free.
Tim

 

[Bob Landry]

I do a lot of electrical work in the course of my marine business and use only crimp connectors. applied with a quality crimper and covered with adhesive lined heat shrink. I have never has a connection fail or corrode, but if I were to have to redo a connection for any reason, the most wire I would lose is 1/2".
I don't recommend solder because it really isn't needed and most people do not know how to solder and not melt the insulation or wick solder up under it, especially on the heavier wire.

 

[Buddychrist]

I do a lot of electrical work in the course of my marine business and use only crimp connectors. applied with a quality crimper and covered with adhesive lined heat shrink. I have never has a connection fail or corrode, but if I were to have to redo a connection for any reason, the most wire I would lose is 1/2".
I don't recommend solder because it really isn't needed and most people do not know how to solder and not melt the insulation or wick solder up under it, especially on the heavier wire.

+1

 

[donmac]

How are you charging your batteries? I've always used 2 or 3 bank chargers when using 24 or 36v trolling motors.

 

[Buddychrist]

I have an on board charger on the 6 batteries for my SeaPro

 

[Wallijig]

I worked in 12v auto industry for over 20 yrs. Been in many factory classes/seminars specializing trouble shooting and fixing electrical problems in automobiles. I have rewired and trouble shot electrical issues in Yugo's to Farrari's.
On a 24v trolling system there are 4 connections by batter which is a harsh environment at battery, I would solder those and be not afraid to use crimp/heat shrink in other locations.
I agree if one does not have proper tools to solder, one should take it to someone who has. Just as not having proper crimp tool.
I have seen people screw up more crimps connections then solder. By not having proper crimp tool or crimping to wire that is black & oxidized, giving them a false sense of good connection. If they tried to solder that it would not take solder and connector would just fall off.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HQbJO6mnIyc

 

[JRyno10]

Thanks everyone for the input. I probably should do something better about my connections. They are just crimped and then I put electrical tape over it. However I checked all my connections, and recharged the batteries - then tested the TM in my garage. I ran it at various speeds for about 20 minutes and it ran perfectly fine and it only took my batteries from about 11.90 to 11.84. Although I'm sure this may change when the prop is actually in water and has resistance. I think I am about to go out and give it another shot

 

[Wallijig]

Thanks everyone for the input. I probably should do something better about my connections. They are just crimped and then I put electrical tape over it. However I checked all my connections, and recharged the batteries - then tested the TM in my garage. I ran it at various speeds for about 20 minutes and it ran perfectly fine and it only took my batteries from about 11.90 to 11.84. Although I'm sure this may change when the prop is actually in water and has resistance. I think I am about to go out and give it another shot

Be careful running trolling motor out of water. They are not designed to be used that way.
Here's copy of statement from their repair manual; Do not run motor out of water for more than a minute at a time. The motor assemblies (and speed coils) are designed to dissipate heat through the motor shell into water. The armature seals can also dry out.


Here's link to whole MinnKota repair manual: https://tnhatlfs01.thenethouse.com/striperpics/mkrepair.pdf/Minn Kota Repair Manual.pdf

 

[JRyno10]

Wow I wasn't aware I that. Thanks for letting me know!

 

[jmcaswell]

If I have my trolling battery in the center bench, and my trolling motor on the front bow, that means I would have to run roughly 10' feet of wire from battery to motor- is this ok to have the length that long? Def adding a amp breaker up front.

Jim

 

[russ010]

If I have my trolling battery in the center bench, and my trolling motor on the front bow, that means I would have to run roughly 10' feet of wire from battery to motor- is this ok to have the length that long? Def adding a amp breaker up front.

Jim

Just use the largest marine grade power wire you can get away with. I don't use anything but 4ga, but you should be fine with 6ga. Most bass boats use 8ga (I think), but you save yourself a lot of headache by going overkill on the main lines.

 

[jmcaswell]

Thanks Russ- I think I owe you some kind of consulting Fee at this point- great info!

So I will use thick G wire- but "distance" from battery to motor is ok? 10FT?

 

[russ010]

Thanks Russ- I think I owe you some kind of consulting Fee at this point- great info!

So I will use thick G wire- but "distance" from battery to motor is ok? 10FT?

My length with 4ga wire in my new boat is going to be over 20' with all of the curves I have to run the line in.... but yes, you'll be fine. You want a larger gauged wire to compensate for amp loss - that's why my general rule of thumb is to go as big as possible... but 4ga will handle any length and supply all the amp you will need.

No sweat on the info man - that's what this sites for. Feel free to give me a call anytime - 404-694-4689