How to fix this?

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23mako

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Would the best way be to get a new female connector and just splice the wires together? I don't want to have to rewire the whole trailer. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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My previous trailer I purchased a new end and spliced it. I then shoved the sliced part inside the trailer tongue.
 
Buy a new end, cut all four wires at different lengths so that all of the splices will be staggered/off set from each other. Cut the trailer wires length to match up to the lengths of the new end. Slide a piece of heat shrink over each wire before you solder them together. After you have soldered them all together, slide your heat shrink in place and shrink it. Then wrap the group of wires with some tape. Preferably somthing like 3M's Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape.

Wiring.jpg
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=334871#p334871 said:
JMichael » Today, 22:03[/url]"]Buy a new end, cut all four wires at different lengths so that all of the splices will be staggered/off set from each other. Cut the trailer wires length to match up to the lengths of the new end. Slide a piece of heat shrink over each wire before you solder them together. After you have soldered them all together, slide your heat shrink in place and shrink it. Then wrap the group of wires with some tape. Preferably somthing like 3M's Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape.


This sounds like the best way for a long term solution but if you do not have access to a soldering iron, doing the same thing with a crimp splice will work about as well. If you don't want to over think it, any type of splice will work for a number of years. DrNip's suggestion will probably be good enough. You will be exposed to corrosion from the environment more than from the water.

I used insulated crimp splices and heat shrink tubing from Radio Shack on my trailer wiring but I have seen the self-fusing electrical tape used to insulate sonar transducer cable patches with good results.
 
i keep it simple with trailer plugs.crimp connections and tape with a flex conduit.i find i'm replacing plugs at least once a year.i go waaay off road quite a bit and have even started carrying extra fuses, wire,crimp connectors and tape on the boat becase of the abuse the trailer takes :LOL2: the last replace was from dragging the connector for about 50 miles after over articulating the trailer and the plug popped out.it was worn down to a nub when i stopped for gas and checked it.now i keep it really simple.
 
JMichael's suggestion is the correct fix. Also, if you want to guarantee your splice is waterproof, then use self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors. Then wrap with the 3M splicing tape. This will give you a nearly indestructible, waterproof connection.
 
Just be the devils advocate, it's not hard to re-wire the entire trailer, just buy a kit for $20, and no splices to corrode and cause shorts, etc. My $.02
 
TNtroller said:
Just be the devils advocate, it's not hard to re-wire the entire trailer, just buy a kit for $20, and no splices to corrode and cause shorts, etc. My $.02
how do you connect to the lights with no connections to corrode and cause shorts? :)
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338616#p338616 said:
Bugpac » Tue Jan 14, 2014 1:51 am[/url]"]
TNtroller said:
Just be the devils advocate, it's not hard to re-wire the entire trailer, just buy a kit for $20, and no splices to corrode and cause shorts, etc. My $.02
how do you connect to the lights with no connections to corrode and cause shorts? :)

Di-electric grease works wonders, a little bit off preventive maint goes a long way.
 
Wow, some of you guys must work for NASA, doing connections for the space shuttle. :lol:
"Di-electric grease,
self-adhesive lined heat shrink butt connectors.
3M splicing tape,
3M's Self-Fusing Silicone Rubber Electrical Tape
and self-fusing electrical tape used to insulate sonar transducer cable patches"

My dad would of twisted the wires together and made sure they stayed apart sorta kindof. Then after blowing about 10 fuses wrapped it with some duct tape or something. :roll:

Tim
 
It may seem a bit overkill, or getting too technical, but, all of those things are not just recommended, but NECESSARY when dealing with trailers that are used around salt water. Wrapping wires together and putting a wire nut on it won't last long in this environment! Salt water eats boats and equipment, period. Even with the right stuff, there is still the potential for failure. So, I tend to do things overkill.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338656#p338656 said:
earl60446 » Today, 13:39[/url]"]

My dad would of twisted the wires together and made sure they stayed apart sorta kindof. Then after blowing about 10 fuses wrapped it with some duct tape or something. :roll:

Tim
I think I may have run in to some of your dad's work before. What state did he live in. :lol:
 
TNtroller said:
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=338616#p338616 said:
Bugpac » Tue Jan 14, 2014 1:51 am[/url]"]
TNtroller said:
Just be the devils advocate, it's not hard to re-wire the entire trailer, just buy a kit for $20, and no splices to corrode and cause shorts, etc. My $.02
how do you connect to the lights with no connections to corrode and cause shorts? :)

Di-electric grease works wonders, a little bit off preventive maint goes a long way.
I was being sarcastic.!! If you cant have a splice you cant connect the lights!!
 
A cheap little soldering kit from the hardware store .... some wire strippers .... a pack of heat shrink tubes .... and a lighter

Takes about ten minutes start to finish and you'll have an excellent fix.

Plus, soldering and using heat shrink tubes is actually a lot of fun.
 

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