Keeping an aluminum boat in a wet slip

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shanemc

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Willoughby Hills, OH
I’ve got a StarCraft fish master that I’m considering docking for the season in freshwater. It still has factory paint on the bottom, not bottom paint. I do not want to strip the bottom down to bare metal and barrier coat, then bottom paint. I think a light sanding should enough to get a non copper bottom paint to stick.

What are your thoughts?

Thanks!
 

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....well the "light sanding" part.. yea it WILL be light ..IN PARTS... but if you happen to TOUCH a rivet..oops now your at bare metal AT THAT SPOT.....
IMHO your right about getting a "MECHANICAL" bond happening to whatever non copper bottom paint your going with, but.. (ya knew there was a BUTT )...
check out some of the chemical products that the dealers use to deliver a new boat with antifouling bottom paint.. they sure as he (double hockey sticks) do not sand the bottom.. it's a chemical "etching" product that is brushed on and yields a surface that will hold the appropriate bottom paint.
Freshwater ain't too bad.. slime and occasional beards....some salt water paints have a slime reduction additive...
back in the day there was a independent magazine called PRACTICAL SAILOR that did extensive test on pretty much everything.. they were like the CONSUMER REPORTS for boating stuff.. they did some interesting tests on bottom paint.. IDK if they are still around..
good luck...
EFFORT does not equal RESULTS
 
I'm with airshot on this one. Since this is only a seasonal arrangement, I would not paint bottom. I would haul and clean bottom as needed.
 
Once you put on a bottom paint, then you will need to continue using it. Over time it builds up and becomes more difficult to keep it looking good. Been down that road and sorry I ever started doing it. Then I switched to wax or other quality protecting. Most do not require any buffing, just apply and forget it. Get yourself a pressure washer, even a cheap electric one will work as the wax keeps the crud from sticking. After you pressure wash the crud off then reapply the wax and go play. Depending on your body of water and how much crud there is, anywhere from a few weeks to six weeks do a pullout and clean. I use a spray on wax from Turtle wax, put it on heavy, no need to buff. When it is time to clean the hull a shot from the pressure washer removes the heavy stuff and a long handled car wash brush cleans off the rest. Rinse and let dry for a short time then spray on the wax. Takes mabey a couple hours at best, far less time and expense than painting, sanding and repainting. Also remember that crud will still stick to the bottom paint, you need to run the boat at speed to wash the crud off the bottom paint. Unless you go to great expense and time and effort most bottom paints will slow down your top speed, where the wax method usually increases your top speed if that is an issue.
 
Anyone lifted a boat this size off the trailer? I might consider waxing the entire bottom.
 
While not a fun job, it is doable...however no need really, many spraying waxes or protectants available today. If you choose to lift it off, I would pull the boat rearward until the transom can be supported then pull the trailer out from under adding extra supports along the way. You still have things in the way to work around ! Thus the reason for spray products, coat an area then pull boat back and forth on the trailer to get all areas. If you have access to a large lift or hoist to lift the entire boat, then that makes a big difference, but most do not have that option.
 
No, it will last for a few weeks.

As far as lifting, I've used a pair of logs @ the transom and a cherry picker @ the bow eye many times. Makes very quick work with an aluminum boat. With a fiberglass boat, a bit more is needed as far as support.
 
Anyone lifted a boat this size off the trailer? I might consider waxing the entire bottom.
All the time! But I lift them ON the trailer! Bottle jack off trailer frame or good ground support and a 2x6 about 3 to 4' long in a clear part of the hull. Jack up one hull side at a time. I do the same with my 21' FRP Walk-Around too, for painting AF around the rollers.
 
All the time! But I lift them ON the trailer! Bottle jack off trailer frame or good ground support and a 2x6 about 3 to 4' long in a clear part of the hull. Jack up one hull side at a time. I do the same with my 21' FRP Walk-Around too, for painting AF around the rollers.
Amen.. you can do a lot with a little bottle jack + patience.... and ON the trailer lifting each side is MUCH safer.. I am in shape.. but don't want to let this ROUND shape become FLAT.
 
Not trying to be snarky but in all honesty how long do you think wax will stay on a hull bottom cruising at 25 mph. I'm guessing maybe a minute.
Just like on your car, it will last for a while and keep the crap from sticking as well. Makes cleanup much quicker and easier. I do mine a few times each season but mine sets on a trailer. Years back kept my boat in a hoist out of water. Just used Pledge spray wax for furniture, it lasted for a couple weeks but made the crud come off easier. Today's spray protectants last much longer so 2-3 weeks or longer should not be a problem ! Bottom line is.....much less cost and effort than painting by a long shot !
 
Not trying to be snarky but in all honesty how long do you think wax will stay on a hull bottom cruising at 25 mph. I'm guessing maybe a minute.
Last longer than you think. I can always tell when it's time to wax mine again because it starts getting harder to clean the scum line off. I use a paste type wax beginning of the season and then use spray on whenever it needs it throughout the season.
 
I used a floor wax on my pontoon boat and that seems to hold up well. It sits in the water May thru Oct. It is clear ADK water though, and just gets a hard water line, and a slight slime coat, during the full season.
 
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Here is one I did back in the summer for trailer repairs. The strap up front was for the engine hoist (cherry picker). First, I lowered the trailer tongue down to the ground to get the transom as high as possible. Then, I put stands under the transom (But I have used logs MANY times) and then lifted the bow with the cherry picker. Rolled the trailer out and replaced the bunks and rollers:
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It seems scary the first time, but it's quick and simple after you've done it a couple of times. It's easier if you have a cherry picker and stands, but I've done it many times with nothing but a floor jack and some cinderblocks or logs.

Aluminum boats are typically much lighter. You can almost lift it by hand and set it on blocks with a lot of them.
 

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