Landau 1456 Jon Build

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Yeah, thanx to the Mrs. I have to sell "Toys" (ie my other hobby stuff) that I'm no longer using in order to come up with the $$$ to play around with this boat as I haven't sold the Tracker Tournament 1800TF bass boat that I was supposed to in order to get the $$$ to do this.
 
Well, after 2 days of sitting outside belly up in the heat of the sun, the gluvit is finally dry.



Here is the live well hatch with the carpet.

 
Good progress tonight, running out of rivets makes a great stopping point.



The aluminum is 6160-t6 1.25x1.25x.125. It might be just a bit thick but I didnt want it to flex too much.
 
https://www.rivetsonline.com/

I used aluminum rivets with a steel mandrel and they pulled nice and tight. Much cheaper here than through a hardware store.
 
I was looking into rivets specifically to calculate my sheer load. The areas that would sheer are the rivets that are holding the vertical supports to the horizontal pieces. Fastenal lists the sheer strengh for the following 1/8" rivets:

Stainless steel 520lb sheer strength
Aluminum 155lb sheer strength
Steel 305lb sheer strength

I will use the aluminum rivets to hold it together then use stronger rivets for the areas of caution.
 
Stainless is OK to have against aluminum but mild steel will corrode especially when it gets damp from the moisture in the air at night condensing on it.
 
Yea, but I figured I would go ahead and post the ratings. I am going to run stainless where it needs it.
 
Here are my plans for wiring. I know I am a little ways away but it doesnt hurt to think about it.
 

Attachments

  • BOAT WIRING.dgn.pdf
    13.5 KB
builds looking great!!! gonna be a great boat when your finished... i checked out that prop calculator... how did you figure out your gear ratio? also... when i enter my info it tells me i have around .20-.25 perfect prop slip! how do you reduce prop slip? my current prop needs to be replaced cause it is pretty banged up... i am assuming that can cause prop slip?
 
Thanks for the gluvit tip. Probably a better long-term solution. I think Im also going to order the carpet you used.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360981#p360981 said:
inlovewithsurfin » 25 Jul 2014, 18:24[/url]"]builds looking great!!! gonna be a great boat when your finished... i checked out that prop calculator... how did you figure out your gear ratio? also... when i enter my info it tells me i have around .20-.25 perfect prop slip! how do you reduce prop slip? my current prop needs to be replaced cause it is pretty banged up... i am assuming that can cause prop slip?

What kind of motor are you running? My evinrude 9.9-15 is a 12:29, so 29/12=2.41 gear ratio. I estimated that I had a .1 prop slip. Prop slip is the amount of loss. determined at a fraction.

Your pitch equals the amount of inches the propeller will move in 1 rotation without any loss. A 9 pitch prop will travel 9" in one revolution with zero slip.

A damaged propeller can cause a loss of performance, if anything you can remove it from the motor and clean up the edges where it is damaged. That will get you by until the prop is replaced.

I would fill out the calculator to the best of your knowledge.

A simple rule-of-thumb to follow when experimenting with prop pitch: At wide-open RPM, increasing the prop pitch reduces RPM by roughly 200 rpm's per one inch of pitch. So switching from a 21- to a 23-pitch prop will drop maximum RPM level approximately 400 rpm's. Going down in pitch size will have the opposite effect and increase maximum achievable RPM.
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=360992#p360992 said:
sworrior » 25 Jul 2014, 19:49[/url]"]Thanks for the gluvit tip. Probably a better long-term solution. I think Im also going to order the carpet you used.

No problem, I am really happy with the carpet. I was concerned with the glue from them as it was really thin but I painted it on. The next day it was stuck solid, I pulled hard and the glue held strong. I am happy so far with it. If you do get some glue on the top your carpet, a damp rag will wipe if off.
 
engine is a 96 johnson 9.9 converted to 15... was only getting 14mph the other day... cleaned up the prop with a file last night and got 18mph today all day! much better until i check my rpm's with a tach that just came in the mail today and then get a new prop accordingly...
 
Man, that has got to be the best performance refresh ever. I think my boat runs about that, its fast enough for me, exp. when the water is rough.
 


You can see how I measured the panel with minimum fitting. I drew a line down the center of my plywood. then measured the complete length that I needed and cut that off.

I then marked off 1' increments on my railing and measured the width and transfered those dimensions onto my plywood I then cut it to shape.
 


I then cut my carpet to shape, to minimize waste I laid the piece of the carpet and cut 2" around the pannel. I then laid the carpet on the panel and use a clip to keep it from twisting on me. I folded the carpet back halfway, I applied glue on one quarter of the panel and worked my way around, then stapled the ends to hold it in place until the glue dried.
 


I set the panel in the sun to dry and it was ready to go in less than 2 hours. I trimmed out the hole in the panel and glued the inside edge, I then used staples to secure it into place until the glue dried. I pulled the wires for the Garmin GPS fish finders, and attached the transducer to the trolling motor. Nothing is wired up yet but it is looking like progress.
 


Well removing the foam from the seat sucks. While only using a drywall saw, you can seriously make a mess. I kinda felt like a DEA agent searching for 4 kilos of cocaine being smuggled from Columbia through Cuba. Either way, a shop vac is your best friend.
 


This is the new insulated live well and slam latch, temporarily installed in the center seat. Just needs some more carpet.
 
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