Paint Stripper ?

[Steph Boeker]

I'm using a 3 part process for my paint scheme. 1st , Gator Glide to make the slick epoxy (rock solid) protected bottom. It's a 2 part epoxy and has 5 coats of anchor gray "base" (or primer) that adheres to the bear alum. , which you see here below. Then it will be the 5 coats of white Gator Glide G2 which is both, slicker, ... , eliminating much friction and the finish for the bottom, along w/background of my last finish coats of "flag blue" TotalBoat - Wet Edge Topside Paint on the side detail. Back to work !!

 

[Todd in NY]

Good progress, and thanks for posting your work. I've been thinking about stripping and repainting my 16ft 1974 Sears aluminum boat. It has at least 4 coats of different colored paint, and it's peeling the different layers at various places. I would never consider painting over the existing paint because none of it seems to be "sticking" to the aluminum.

 

[Steph Boeker]

Good progress, and thanks for posting your work. I've been thinking about stripping and repainting my 16ft 1974 Sears aluminum boat. It has at least 4 coats of different colored paint, and it's peeling the different layers at various places. I would never consider painting over the existing paint because none of it seems to be "sticking" to the aluminum.

That's great. I'm very interested in seeing your progress as well. Inspiration can't come from too many places in my opinion. Thanks for sharing your story and good luck w/ the stripping. It's a lot of work but well worth the feeling of accomplishment when y

I'm trying to restore my 14'/54" aluminum (riveted) boat. I don't know what kind of paint is on it but it seems it was a really good job. It's old, thick and primed. I used Goof Off Pro Strength Remover (liquid), but it didn't do much at all. I had watched a YouTube video that showed a spray version used that was applied, wait 45 min and it all bubbled up to be pressure washed off easily. They actually used the "Graffiti" version or Goof Off Pro Strength Graffiti. I bought the wrong version. The version I got did say it would remove "latex" paint but didn't need any wait period and was to be applied by rag and rubbed. It didn't bubble the paint up and didn't remove much at all. Maybe my boat was painted w/ some sort of oil based or enamel type paint ??
I saw my mistake and purchased the "Graffiti" version. Will be here tomorrow. If it doesn't work I'll be looking for advice on what to try next. I did buy 2 wire brush cups for my 4" grinder made of Stainless Steel as I've read that steel or brass wire cups would chemically affect the aluminum so it might not hold paints and/or sealers (Gator Glide & others) or become corrosive in time. I hate to think of grinding the boat.
Any suggestions ??
Thanks for your generous consideration,
Sincerely ..................
Steph (Louisiana)
View attachment 114247

I changed my mind on the color so I have some blue Gator Glide G2 (epoxy paint) 1/2gal for sale. It will cover 95 sq ft 5 times (coats) It usually sells for $124. & $49.99 s&h but I'll send it to you for $150. cash. Let me know if you're interested (337) 509-6900 or [email protected]

 

[Steph Boeker]

After all the work on the 9.5 hp Evinrude it's getting painted & put back together.

 

[kazzer]

Good progress, and thanks for posting your work. I've been thinking about stripping and repainting my 16ft 1974 Sears aluminum boat. It has at least 4 coats of different colored paint, and it's peeling the different layers at various places. I would never consider painting over the existing paint because none of it seems to be "sticking" to the aluminum.

A quick way to improve the performance of any paint stripper is this :- Paint on the stripper heavily, and immediately cover it with a thin sheept of plastic. Bin liner, or even kitchen Gladwrap material. This will stop the stripper from evaporating and greatly improve it's performance. You could do the job in sections. It might need several applications because of the various layers of probably different types of paint.

 

[Steph Boeker]

Well, here's a link to the video of my 9.5 hp Evinrude outboard going back together in the restoration process by T-Mike Vintage Outboards on YouTube : (in case anyone's interested)
https://tinyurl.com/2p8w9wth

 

[Steph Boeker]

Here's a 3rd installment of my motor rebuild re-assembly : (if interested)
https://tinyurl.com/523w8hnm

 

[sonny1]

Found video's interesting.

 

[Steph Boeker]

Found video's interesting.

I'm glad you did. I'm enjoying the progress documentation of the motor rebuild myself. It will be nice to have copies of them for future reference. Here's the next 2 :
https://tinyurl.com/59wkbswy (#4 - installing the gear case)
https://tinyurl.com/ydxkcehh (barrel test)

Hope you enjoy,
God bless.

 

[Steph Boeker]

I finally got my motor back. This is the last "lake test" video below :
https://tinyurl.com/btuntjhs

 

[Steph Boeker]

Taped off & ready for 'Flag Blue' :

 

[Steph Boeker]

1st coat of 'Flag Blue'. One side laid down smoother than the other. I'll sand them in a couple few days and see if I can't lay it down smoother on the 2nd coat : (I do like the color and it's better in real life)

 

[Steph Boeker]

Got my truck back from the shop after a month and 2 weeks waiting on a part !!

 

[Steph Boeker]

Okay, well I've been storing up photo's & video clips of the work I've done. I'm slow , I know !! But, I've been steady and consistent in my boat project, home chores and helping neighbors , along w/a couple bike riding poker runs.
Anyway, I've stripped and replace the parts of the trailer I've wanted by welding either new ones on or purchase parts as in the case of leaf springs, bearings hubs etc .... Here are some photo's : (P.S. ... they're all strong but very ugly welds .... even for me being a 1st timer. They did get better by the end and I've done a bit more on other things as well , which give me hope for the future !! )

 

[Steph Boeker]

Next, I replaced the hubs and bearings and attached the old axle to the newly installed leaf springs. After prepping the trailer w/OSPHO Rust Converter, I painted it w/ 7 cans of Black Engine High Heat auto-spray paint. i'm still geauxing to have to attach the boat guides & centering roller near the bow but am waiting to install the new lights & harness before I sit the boat on her & find the correct spots to weld them on. I still need to weld the boat guides (sides and center roller) but want to finish installing the new lights & harness before sitting the boat on her to lay out the correct spots. Here are those photo's :

 

[Steph Boeker]

Okay, lights & harness done. Starting at the front w/4 pin connector, running through the stem of the trailer , all the way back to the split-tilt connection to the main boat bed part of the trailer and all the way back to the tail lights !! You may notice I added more length to the white ground wire to reach the main boat bed of the trailer to eliminate any short in the future. Then the side lights ground right behind that. Here are some videos :

 

[Steph Boeker]

So, here are the new inside & outside transom boards attached. They are both made of solid Wenge , a rare & exotic wood (I have plenty from my life installing high end mill works). These are special 5/4's thick. They started off as 12-1/4" x 13'. You wouldn't believe what I could get for them. They're worth more than the boat, motor & trailer all together.
Anyway, it's a very hard wood and very water resistant. That w/ the fact that I put a thick coat of fiberglass resin on them should do the trick.

 

[sonny1]

What happened to the bottom bracket on the inside?

 

[Steph Boeker]

What happened to the bottom bracket on the inside?

I forgot to put it on. I have it painted w/ that awful blue Tuff Coat (just to cover the old dingy coat that was on it). But, I put it up to the bottom of the transom and saw that the bolts would work. I really don't even have to remove anything but about 4 bolts to install it. Spread a bit of Alum. sealant to the heads and tighten them back up.
Actually , I thought I'd forgo it ? I guess it might be a stablizer of some level but that solid Wenge doesn't really need much help being 5/4's thick.
You surprised me catching that , ......... , I'll have to do it this morning for sure and for certain now. I wonder if I'll ever look at that transom w/out remembering you sonny1 ??
Love the kick in the pants. It's the right thing to do. Thanks !! I'll get you a pic when shes done !!
I'm sorry you didn't see anything complementary worth mentioning. I'm getting old and tired.

 

[LDUBS]

Looks like you painted the bunks blue same as the inside. I think that looks pretty cool. Will you cover them or leave as is?

The gudes and rollers -- curious about welding vs mounting with Ubolts. Not saying you shouldn't, just curious.