Please please help me troubleshoot

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[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328292#p328292 said:
crankbait09 » 14 minutes ago[/url]"]
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328270#p328270 said:
shawnfish » Today, 11:02[/url]"]your flywheel will come right off with the puller or it is gonna give you a good fight. DONT FORGET TO USE GRADE 8 BOLTS
don't forget to loosen the flywheel nut about one turn so the fly has room to pop off, don't take the nut all the way off because the flywheel could fly off and knock your teeth out.
if you get the puller on and tighten real good and it don't pop off spray some 3 in one or some wd-40 under and around the nut so it can work down the shaft. after a few minutes give it a few taps with a hammer but use a chunk of wood so your not directly tapping the fly with the hammer. good taps just don't hit it hard. if that don't work soak it again and tighten the puller some more and wait an hour or a while and repeat above process. mine took almost 2 days to come off.....the condensors and points are cheap so you may as well replace them too.....

sentence in red...what do I need to use grade 8 bolts for?

do I NEED to remove the magneto yet? I only need to remove this when I'm ready to replace coils, right?

what do you need grade 8 bolts for?? unless you know a trick to get underneath the flywheel without removing it. all that stuff is under the flywheel. you are going to need the flywheel puller with 3 GRADE 8 bolts 1/4 inch I believe. MUST BE GRADE 8 anything less could (WILL!!) break of in the flywheel and then its never coming off. GRADE 8 BOLTS do you have a service manual? is it a factory manual?
 
I just thought of something...did you check(visually) the crankcase seals? if they are bad you could be getting air from a leak in that bad cylinder and that would make it backfire and run bad. you never did say if that plug that had bad spark jumped the gap in the tester? what did you have the gap set at? same for both wires? 1/4 is sufficient but real good spark will jump 3/8 and that's how I test mine( once)....just wanna make sure cuz it could be a combo of both leaky gasket on the crankcase and bad spark....
 
I have never removed a flywheel......ever.

as i mentioned, this is all new to me. so anything that you can tell me to accomplish this task would be appreciated.

I do have a Seloc repair manual but it doesnt mention anything about needing grade 8 bolts. It mentions using a flywheel puller, but nothing about specific bolts.
 
as for the crankcase seals.......i VISUALLY dont see anything that raises a red flag.......

as for that "jump thing", i actually used an inline tester.........
 
[url=https://www.tinboats.net/forum/viewtopic.php?p=328302#p328302 said:
crankbait09 » Today, 14:01[/url]"]as for the crankcase seals.......i VISUALLY dont see anything that raises a red flag.......

as for that "jump thing", i actually used an inline tester.........


yes... the inline tester has a wire you plug into the spark plug boot on one end and on the other end has a spark plug boot that goes on your spark plug while its inside the cylinder. and inside the tester theres a gap where the wires do not connect, when you have it hooked up properly and turn your motor over your spark should jump across the gap where the wires don't touch inside the tester and you can see it. most of them have increments so you can set the gap at 1/8 1/4 3/8 etc.... you want it to jump at least 1/4 inch gap and hear a sharp snap sound and it should be a very bright blue in color.... check your inbox in a few minutes..gonna PM you
 

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