Poly Marine Livewell Tank Mod

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AnglerC said:
lckstckn2smknbrls said:
The steel cross braces you put in between the stringers is not needed. When you install the floor you put rivets through the floor into the stringers.
I hope the tank works out.

When I ripped out the old deck there was treated 2x between them. the stringers got quit wobbly when I took it all out so I replaced it with steel thinking they were needed.
The wobbly goes away when the whole floor to stringers to rib ends are riveted together. If the stringer to rib rivets are loose replace them.
 
Well its raining again so I'll come in and post my progress. Everything on one end is molded. Ready to weld. If it will quit raining.
 

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Finally got one end welded... Its not difficult at all.
 

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This post makes me want to go buy something made of plastic and modify it just so I can try welding plastic.

Can you tell us where the welding torch you used comes from? Just curious of cost an availability.

Great job on your mod. Keep the post going to show us how it looks installed and how it performs.

Rob
 
Don't buy anything. Just use a laundry soap bottle, or even a garbage can lid.

My project was a hole that was burned into a storage container.

You could try a milk bottle, but the plastic is very thin.

Try a soldering gun.

Harbor Freight Sells a plastic welding kit. I d.k. if that is what is in the pictures.

richg99
 
From what I had read online you have the best luck making your welding rods out of scrape from your work piece. If you can't do that I'm not sure what you would use. There are commercial welding rods you can buy but I couldn't figure out which ones I needed so I just made mine from the pieces I cut off the tank. Here is the welder I bought. https://www.harborfreight.com/weldi...r-motor-and-temperature-adjustment-96712.html They let me use the 20% coupon but I've heard since it's a welder its not supposed to qualify. I have seen Soldering Irons used on kayaks but I figured I'd need way more heat. Youtube has a ton of videos on the subject. I used a lid from a rubber maid tote to practice and it is very simple. You're just melting the plastic enough to get the two parts to blend and cool and you're done. I have sunny skies right now so I'm going to get back to work. I have lots of new pics to post later if it rains again or it gets dark. So stay tuned.
 
Today was rain free. Finally made some headway. I have it done. It fits now which is nice. Here's the rest of the mod.
 

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The bait well with the final welds to be done.
 

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Damnit!!!! :mrgreen:
 

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Well... does anyone know if that spay sealer stuff that guy uses after blowing holes in the bottom of his boat with a cannon is toxic to fish??? Lol...

Anyway here's some before and after in the boat to give you some perspective.
 

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I post weekly - "Stay far far FAR away from that spray seal stuff" !!!!


take a piece of your scrap plastic and see how the 3M-5200 sticks to it.....
it should stick like Ugly on an Ape - then you would be golden.

OR - keep melting the plastic into the hole until you get it filled - would be best.
back the inside and melt into the hole from the outside. A piece of a soda can
is what I would use for backing.




.





.
 
The project is looking good.

The leak brings something to mind that should be talked about.
I am sure that once that tank is full of water and you are bouncing through the waves that there is going to be a good amount of stress on the welds.

I am certain that welding plastic shares some rules with welding metal in that your weld joint needs to be at least 1.5T thick. Basically the completed weld needs to have at least 1.5X the thinnest base material in thickness if you were to cross section it.
If your weld is from one side only I would groove out the weld joint 45° by 66@ of the material thickness for a butt joint and even though it looks like you have a lap joint I would still groove out the lower component. In plastic it looks like the root pass is called tacking. I would make sure this step is thorough and melts all the way through the last 33%. From there lay a good solid pass filling the gap. Use multiple passes if required, making sure the base material and rod are at or near melting temp.

Once that is complete, consider doing it again with a double, like you did on the outside of the tank.

The whole project is really well executed. Just have a little bit more work to do. The benefits will pay back 10 fold when done.

Rob
 
It's like Christmas from Flow Rite!!!
 

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Fittings...
 

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Well its Saturday and its going to get up in the mid 90's. So I was up at 5:00am to beat the heat. I'm doing several things on the boat all at once. Livewell wise here's what I did today. I had such a tough time gathering the courage to drill these two holes in my transom. But when I was done I was happy with the results.
 

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This is hole seemed to be used as a livewell overflow port from days of old. When I got the boat it was plugged with some Mickey Mouse rig to plug it. Anyway. I'm going to use it as my livewell pump out port.
 

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