Project: Shoebox - 1764 Fisher FINISHED!!

[Shoedawg]

Here is the port side with all the foam removed. Now to do the other side.


Using a PW really helped clean up the remaining foam that was sticking to the hull. It saved me some time getting it cleaned up.


The foam is OUT!!! =D> =D> =D>


Here is what the bottom of the foam looked like. It was in pretty rough shape and a bit waterlogged on the bottom. I am glad I made the decision to pull it out. Now I don't have to worry about drainage issues.


Not sure what my next objective is. I think I am going to remove the rest of the old paint inside the boat and then maybe get this flipped over and start removing the exterior paint. Stay tuned!

 

[CMOS]

Can't wait to see this project progress! =D>


CMOS

 

[Shoedawg]

Been about two weeks since I last posted. The weather has been very uncooperative these past few weeks, leaving me to get some work done on the boat for a few hours at a time before the rains show. My shop is pretty small, and makes working on the boat inside it very cramped. But here is the update.

Started off with my leak test. Filled the boat up a little past the water line and found a few leaks. For the most part, the leaks were very minor, but I am going to replace them anyway.

Here is the BIGGEST leak I discovered. Going to replace it with a new rivet.


Here is some very small leaks on the bottom. Very minor, but going to replace those rivets anyways.


As I waited for the boat to drain after the leak test I started working on the lids and a few other parts that I took off, to get rid of that crappy Rhino Liner green paint.




After cleaning up the lids and removing the paint, I started to tackle the back of the boat. Here she is before the stripper went on.


I love this stuff. It started to work within minutes. I am using Jasco's Stripper.


Scraps off easily with a putty knife. I do have to go over it one more time to clean up the remainder of the stuff.


Here's the original manufacturers sticker that I found under the paint.


And look what else I found!! :shock: The serial number for the boat. I looked ALL over the boat for this thing. The tag was covered with so much paint, it covered the numbers. I saw the tag on the back before, but was not sure what the heck it was. Low and behold it was the serial number.


That was it for the day and the rain cames. Had to wait a few days before I could do work on it again.

 

[Shoedawg]

So far the project is going well, and at a good pace. Here is what I have accomplished over the last few days.

The objective now is to get the paint off the sides and the bottom. The plan is to strip the entire boat with Aircraft Remover, scrape, rinse, then get the tough leftovers off using 3M's Rust/Paint Stripper Pad.
Here is the port side before removal. The paint job has to go.


After applying the Aircraft Remover and scraping the paint off, I found the ORGINAL decal plastic wrap that was used by the manufacturer. The previous owner just painted right over on top of it. Not a proper way to paint a boat and keeping the finish looking good. I was glad I made the right choice to repaint this thing.


Here is the plastic decal crap. It peeled off nicely, and in big size section, saving me time.


Just a reference of what Aircraft Remover can do. It bleeds and bubbles paint really well. I highly recommend using it. Just be careful and wear long sleeved chemical resitant rubber gloves and goggles. It will burn your skin if your not to careful.


Here is the boat's original model decal, found underneath all that paint.


Progress. Slow and steady progress :? :? :? :?


After spending a few hours, I finally got most of the paint off both sides of the boat. Just in time before the rains came.




YHAAA RAIN!!

 

[Shoedawg]

The boat FINALLY is off the trailer. =D> =D> =D>

The trailer itself needs some work as well. The cross support bars are rusted and rotted and the joints and will need to be either replaced or cleaned up very well and spot welded. Also, I need to replace all the wiring and route it through a some proper protection. Don't have pictures of it, but will post some soon.

Here she is, finally flipped. I bought some movers dolly's from Harbor Freight on sell. I jacked some free pallets and put the dolly's underneath so I could easily move it in and out of my shop. Notice all the black tar/rhino liner crap on the bottom??? They are covering rivets, leading me to suspect that these may be leaky rivets. After I get the bottom clean, I am going to flip her over again and run another water leak test, just to confirm if there are more leaks. :?


Here is the aft end and a clearer picture of that tar crap.


Using the PW to blast some of the paint off. I wish I had one of those gas powered PW with 3100 PSI. Mine is a electric and only does 1280psi. It does help save some time but does not get most off the stuff.


Here is the front right side done. I was able to remove most of the top layer of the paint and some of the tar crap. The rest of the stuff is really hanging onto the bottom of the boat. The Aircraft Remover was just not getting through it. I plan on sanding it off and going down to bare aluminum.


See on the left all that brown, baked on paint? That's the stuff that cant be removed using the stripper and a putty knife. Same with that black stuff. Not sure what the black stuff is, but it does not feel like that tar crap and doesn't look like paint.


Another view. This stuff would be my burden for the next few days. :x


Found a little crack running along the center, towards the back. As far as I know, it does not leak. Any suggestions on how to patch it up?

 

[Shoedawg]

Here is the next day. Started with the Aircraft Stripper attacking the right side.


The following pictures show the progression of the job. I spent A LOT OF TIME using a 3M stripper pad, mounted on my drill, to remove that baked on paint. I was beat by the end of the day from holding the drill for so long and leaning over the dang boat. But it is coming along.

 

[Shoedawg]

After spending 3 days of stripping, sanding, blasting and hurting I got the whole boat stripped and ready for primer and paint. But before I do that, I need to fix those leaks and replace some rivets. The plan is to use solid rivets (just like the one's on it now) and coat them with some 5200. Here she is, all done!!

 

[Shoedawg]

This is what I got done and started today. I flipped the boat back over to run another leak test. As I suspected, there were more leaks, which that tar crap was concealing and holding in. Good news is that I only had about 25 rivets all together that need to be replaced.

I filled the entire thing up, past the water line. Maybe a little over board, but just wanted to make sure I had all the rivets that were leaking marked and ready for replacement.


After the water leak test, and waiting for the water to drain out of the boat, I decided to tackle the drivers console. Its got green Rhino Liner paint on it and has some cracks and a piece or two of missing plastic. Doing some research on how to properly fix this.








Removed the steering column, windshield, panel switches, and instrument panel and getting ready to strip the paint off.


The sander wasn't working as well as I thought, using 40 grit and a light touch. Again I went back to using the 3M Stripper Pad. I love these things. They are a bit spendy, but well worth it for your time and ease of use. Here is the what I got done so far before I called it for the day. It was 94 degrees out today, plus doing yard work before starting on the boat just wiped my butt. Plan I stripping the rest and getting it ready for prep and repair.

 

[JMichael]

Boats looking good but holy crap!!!,,,, are you sure you're in Idaho?? LoL I'm in the south and it was only 74° here yesterday. That's quite the role reversal if you ask me. :lol:

BTW I wouldn't worry too much about any rivets above the water line unless they're just completely missing or flopping around. Even if they leak, the odds of them ever being under water is slim and even if they do go below the water line it should only be briefly.

 

[Shoedawg]

are you sure you're in Idaho?? LoL I'm in the south and it was only 74° here yesterday. That's quite the role reversal if you ask me. :lol:
.

LOL. Yes I am. I am stationed in southern Idaho and it was HOT yesterday. Thank the Lord, the rest of the week is going to be cooler. It can get in the 100's here over the summer months. I miss the 70 degree summers of Alaska

 

[Shoedawg]

Continued some work on the console. Started to attack the ugly paint with some brush cleaner to help loosen it up and used a paint stripper pad to knock it off.


After getting the paint off the console, I needed to glue the loose sections that is attached to fiberglass shell and the plastic console that runs along the bottom.


I used a two part Epoxy with a 5 minute setup to give me time to work with the piece.


To keep the pressure equal along the glue setup, I clamped some 1x4's along the bottom and let it cure overnight. The epoxy worked very well, and adhered to the fiberglass and plastic with no issues. I needed to glue the bottom first before I went forward with patching up the rips and tears. Doing it this way, I believe, will make the patch up job a little easier and have a nicer finish.


Here is one the tears that need to be addressed. Also note the arrows pointing to the small holes. I have several hairline cracks all over the console, which will be filled with a glaze and spot putty. The holes were drilled by me to stop the stress of the crack from running and creating a longer crack. A buddy of mine gave me this tip. I guess the purpose of the holes stops the stress and equalizes the pressure. I used small drill bits to match somewhat the size of the cracks.


Here is the Glaze and Spot Putty from Bondo I am going to use. It is designed for small pin holes and hairline cracks. You are able to sand it and paint over it. A little goes a long ways. If you use this stuff, I recommend very thin coats, with sanding in between. It sands real easy. I used 320-400 grit sand paper and tack cloth between coats.


Just an example of what it looks like.


To fix the missing tears, I used Bondo's Bumper Repair Kit. Like the putty, this stuff can be painted and sanded.


The kit comes with some type of rubber mesh. I added about an inch all round the tear to help reinforce the repair.


After several layers of mesh and filler, this is what the results were. Also note the spot putty above.

 

[Shoedawg]

Next was the corner.


Mesh and filler.


I left the repairs to cure for several days and then smoothed it out by sanding. Below are the results.




Still have to patch up the other bigger cracks and fill in the hairlines. But I am really happy with the results so far. I also dropped my boat off to get some minor cracks welded up along the bottom. Hopefully I will get it back in the middle of next week and start to get this thing painted.

 

[Shoedawg]

Well its been about two weeks since I last posted, but progress is being made. I got the console just about done, and decided to tackle the boat trailer. I made a bone head move though. I don't have any before pictures of the trailer before I started to work on it. I thought my SD card was in the camera, while I was taking pictures of the disassemble, and that was not the case! #-o

Hope I can remember where things went [-o<

Anyways, on the the restore...

Here is some of the details that needed to be addressed on the console. I had a few cracks running though some areas. I drilled some holes to relieve some pressure from the cracks and to prevent them from spreading even more. Below are some pics of the cracks.












Here I am using the two-part epoxy to seal some the cracks. Mix it well, and let it cure for a few days.


Some of the cracks I used the rubber screen matting to help reinforce the cracks. I hope this stuff works in the long term. The key to using this stuff is being patient with it. Let it cure for a few days before sanding it and applying another coat if necessary.

 

[Shoedawg]

Next up was the instrument panel. The instruments themselves look to be in good shape, but that paint around the housing has to go.


The back side of the panel. Some dirt was built up along the gauges and the wires seem to be in good shape, but I am just going to replace the wires with new ones and some delectric grease on the contacts.


Some of the brass prongs were a little corroded on the back of the gauges. I used a brass brush to clean them. I also need to replace these plastic plugs. The inside was just to dirty and corroded to chance a good contact.


The gauges are out. The plan is now to clean up some of the paint that got around the front edges and clean up the brackets that were holding them in place. Also the paint on the panel is going to be removed.


All cleaned up and the paint gone. I am sick of this rhino liner green paint. Its been a PIA to deal with.


The target now was the switch bank. There are two "2 way" switches and one "3 way" switch. The hole on the left is for an A/C adapter, which was missing when I bought the boat. The switches control the Bilge, Live Well and Lights.


The back of the bank.


I labeled the back of the wires so I knew what, went where, when I reassemble the switches. I am thinking of just replacing them with new ones. Maybe get some new switches that have light indicators on them, to tell me whats on???


All switches are out and properly labeled. Now to remove that green paint. *SIGH*


Finally all gone!!

 

[Shoedawg]

As I mentioned in the previous above post, I dont have any before pics of the trailer before I took it apart. But below is the trailer all disassembled. I did have to cut off two cross bars on the trailer. They were rotting through with rust on the the welds and the beam. A huge pile of rust came out of both bars as I poured the crap that was inside them.

One cross bar was being held together on the trailer with a "L" bracket with some rotted out self-tapping screws. It was barely doing anything to support it. I was not going to take a chance on the bars and loosing my boat while towing and possibly hurting someone, if the bars failed. [-X So I will need to purchase two new bars and weld them.


Here is one of the bars I cut. Notice the rust on the corner? They had to go.


It was time to strip the paint, remove the trailer lights/wiring and remove the hitch, wheel jack and winch housing. I do plan I replacing the bunks with new wood, treating them with some type of water protection, and new carpet.


Back side of the tail lights. I made sure I took pictures of the setup. Looks to be a ground wire. The other side is the same. I had a issue with another trailer I own with the lights not working, and it ended up being a grounding problem.


After removal of the tail lights.....LUCKY ME!!! :LOL2: I didn't notice this before, but the trailer tail lights are LEDs. I though they were the old bulb type, but NOPE!! The entire electric wiring set up to run the trailer lights were ALL taped on the OUTSIDE of the trailer.... [-X [-X [-X I am going to run new wiring through the trailer itself or find a way to protect them from the elements.


Looks like I can run the new wiring though here, that hole on the upper right corner, where the tail lights sit.


The side amber lights were next. They were not LEDs, but the bulb type and in crappy condition. Again they will be replaced with new ones. LEDS!!


After I got all the lights off the trailer, I focused on removing the wheel jack, wench housing and the hitch. The gears for the winch and the webbing need to be replaced. The gears slip and the webbing is old and frayed. The wheel housing on the jack is loose and flimsy. I hope I can fix it to save some money. It works, but does not seem stable. And look at that wire mess. Just added more to the check off sheet.

 

[Shoedawg]

Here is the tongue, with the receiver removed. Notice the cut in the front. A buddy of mine thinks how this happened, and how it got there, is that the original owner bought a receiver that was the wrong size for the tongue. So he cut the top of the tongue, and hammered the front in, to tapper it down, to fit the receiver. Notice how the tongue tappers in, towards the front? I dont know if I should leave it be or patch it up. Any suggestions? My buddy says to patch it.


Now notice the receiver and how it tappers a bit. Also note the evidence of hammer marks on top of the receiver where my finger is.


Now at the stage of stripping the paint. I am using some left over Aircraft remover to get it off.


After some help from the wife, got the left, right and back side done.


Tongue cleaned up, and the bunk brackets ready in wait to be stripped.


That was it for the day. The plan is to flip over the trailer and get the bottom paint off, do the wheel wells and then go over the entire trailer with a steel cup to clean up the rust and the rest of the paint. Hope everyone is enjoying the progress so far.

 

[Shoedawg]

Okay, so yesterday was removing the rest of the paint and doing some prep work for the paint and the weld job. Went into town and purchased two 52.5"L x 3"x4.1 Channel Standard bars for to replace the rotted out ones and some flat steel pieces to do some patch up work.

Started with the wheel wells first. Need to remove the aluminum wheel wells to get a better advantage point to clean them and the steps.


The underside of the wheel well. The paint is going to be stripped and then repainted.


With the wheel wells off, I can now attack the rust and paint. I plan on keeping everything dissembled, so I can paint the parts individually. I do have a HVLP. It is a Wagner Flexio 690 HVLP Paint Sprayer. I hope it does a good job. I have seen mixed reviews on this site, and others, about Wagner's, but I couldn't pass up the deal Lowes had on them.


First steps striped. I still have to go over the area with a steel cup to remove the rest of the rust and some paint I couldn't quite get to.


The wheel wells were up next. Used Aircraft remover to help remove the paint.


All Done with stripping paint! :LOL2: Took a pressure washer to clean the parts up and remove some loose rust. Still have to go over them with a steel cup to clean em' up a bit more.


Here is the trailer flipped over. Had to flip it to remove the underside paint. Did a quick wash with the PW and let it dry, which took no time at all in this heat. Next step was to tackle the rust and the nasty old welds where the cross support bars were attached.


Here's those nasty welds. :x






After doing a little prep work called it a day. It was a long hot day, and I was worn out.

 

[Shoedawg]

BIG DAY TODAY!!!!!! Got the cross support bars replaced and welded, along with the bunk brackets. But first I had to tackle the rust that was built up INSIDE the back of the trailer. Had to drill some holes on the bottom back side to help facilitate drainage (there were NO drain holes on the trailer #-o).

From there my buddy and I took the PW and a wire hanger and started working on getting that rust out. There are bolt holes near the back of the trailer, where the steps attach to. We stuck the jet of the PW in the holes to flush out the rust, while banging with a hammer and using that wire to scrap out as much as we could. We put the tongue of the trailer on the corner of my house to let gravity lend a hand.

Here are the results!!


I couldn't believe the amount of rust that was in there.


The other side.


There was probably about 35lbs of rust compacted in the back. When we lifted the trailer back to the ground, you could feel the difference in weight. We did our best to get most of it out. We also think and hope, that the rust issue was towards the back. The rest of the trailer near the middle and front did not seem to have the same issue.

Now it was on to get this puppy welded.

I am lucky to live on a Air Force base that has an Auto Hobby shop just down the street. They had a wire feed welder that can be rented out for $10 an hour. It took us a total of four hours to get everything done, to include prep work, cutting and welding. The shop-keep only charged me $35!! Saved like a Boss!! This probably would have cost me about $200 bucks else where.

Here she is, ready to get fixed. Thank the Lord the shop had Air Conditioning.


Started with grinding down to bare metal and getting it clean for the weld job. Did all 4 areas. Here was a piece of scrap that went over the worse part to help strengthen that crappy hole.


The bar was placed over the area, in the above picture. The hole you see on top would be addressed and patched as well.


We used another piece of scrap to cover up that hole and started the weld to hold it down.


Welding it in place.


Here is the patch all done. I will still need to clean it up just a bit with a grinder, but the agenda was to get these bars on.

 

[Shoedawg]

Welding the other bars in place.




WOOHOO!!! :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2: Finally all the bars are in place, welded and the trailer can now safely and properly haul the boat. But we weren't out of the woods yet.


Next up was the front of the tongue with that nasty cut. It needed to be patched. We cut a 12"" piece of scrap and put it in and underneath the cut. From there it was tacked to hold in place. Then the scarp sticking out was cutoff and grind to be flush with the tongue.


After that, we welded the rest of the piece and filled it in, then grind it flush so the receiver would fit properly over the tongue.


Here is what the results turned out to be. Soooooo much better than before.


Here is the before picture of the front of the tongue. What a difference.


Had a few holes weak spots that needed to be patched.


Here we started to clean the cross bars, preparing them for the bunk brackets that needed to be welded. This was the hardest part of the job. We used the brackets off the old crappy bars, but had to first cut them off and get them clean and flush. We did the best we could. A lot of that old crappy rusted bar made it difficult and took up most of our time.


Here are the bunk brackets, all done and ready to go. FINALLY!! =D>

 

[Shoedawg]

Another view of the trailer with the new bars installed.


I am very excited that this part is DONE!!! :LOL2: :LOL2: :LOL2: It was a major hurdle that needed to be accomplished. Without it being checked off the list this fast, I would have ran into problems when I got the boat's outside painted and ready to be loaded back onto the trailer.

Thanks to my buddy for doing an OUTSTANDING JOB and using those skills. Its nice to have pals who have welding skills....


The plan next is to clean up the welds, and the rest of the trailer parts and then paint. Still deciding on a color or colors. I am thinking of either painting it one whole color or painting the wheel wells, the wheels and the guide on brackets a different color and the rest another color. Thing is I have no IDEA what color I want the boat to be....aaaahhh the difficulties of life :roll: